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GM MAF install on a 2G.... GST no LIKEY

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DCsGST

20+ Year Contributor
596
1
Feb 17, 2003
Tri-cities, Washington
I just installed a 3" GM MAF and translator version 2.01 and something isn't right. I adjusted the base for 550's and left everything else alone. Started the car and it died, again -- died. WTF. Even if I get it to stay alive I look at my logger and STFT and LTFT are both 0 and don't move. I noticed I threw a CEL code P0100 so I reset it.

I zero'd out my S-AFC II since I set the base for my 550's it should be almost stock right?

The car won't rev over 4k now AT ALL.


I'm pissed that this thing won't work and I've got a DSM meet to go to in the morning. :mad:

I just unplugged the battery in hopes the ECU reset will solve my problem, please help.
 
You could have a major boost leak, or one of the couplers is loose or off. But the car should be able to start and idle, even if the setttings are off. Or did you get a $10 junkyard gm maf? That could be the problem.
 
I got one used from a member in the classifieds for $40...... :mad:


Is there a way to test the MAF or get it tested somewhere? The car did run the 1st time I started it up, but after 20 mins it all went to hell.
 
DCsGST said:
Is there a way to test the MAF or get it tested somewhere?
Not that I know of. If you had a friend with a maft setup, you could borrow his gm maf and try it to see if it was your $40 dollar maf.

I didn't want to have any issues, so I bought my maf brand new from gmpartsdirect or something like that. $120 with shipping, but I knew I wouldn't h ave any problems with it. Good luck.
 
(turning the base switch clockwise 1 click at a time) the *base* until your idle gets up to where it will stay running...

I had to do that or my car would not idle... it would just start and then die...

It may be different on a 2g than 1g but know knows


When I turn up the base my idle gets higher... that could be your problem man...
 
You really should keep turning the base knob until it idles better. Maybe things are different for a 1g, but per the maft instructions you shoul set the base dial for your injector size according to their chart, then drive the car at a constant 50mph and adjust the base for how fuel trims are at 50mph. That sets the base. Then let the car idle and adjust the idle knob, but once again after the base has been set.
 
I'll mess with it again tonight. one Q though, on the dials, which was leans and which way richens it up?

OK, let me rephrase that. I have 550's, so I need to set my base to -15% to compensate the injectors right? Also, I thought adjusting the AUX was only for an external source i.e. nitrous, but the translator table for the injector size says to set AUX=(1g=0, 2G=4) and BASE= D for 550's. I've talked to some other 2G guys and they say theirs is set at AUX=0 and only their base is adjusted. I'm so confused.... :confused:
 
Earlier versions of the maft chip (1.37) only used the base knob for base adjustment. The newier version (2.01) use a combo of base and aux. Just set it up per the instructions. Maybe to set the base you need to flip a switch so that aux really isn't aux when setting the base; I'm not quite sure.

Just set the base to what 550's should be. Don't worry about how much % lean it makes it. I don't know if the % is on the chart or not. As far as which way leans and which way richens, for the base settings there isn't a set directions, i.e clockwise is leaner or bigger injectors. As far as idle mid and wot, I THINK clockwise is leaner and counter-clock is richer, but again look at their instructions.
 
Alright :D I messed with the translator again last night and decided to set it for 450 injectors and just leave my S-AFC II alone. I started her up and she barked right to life and idled great! So I shut the hood and went for a short drive and all was well. I even did some datalogs just to see where I'm at, and I've got some tuning to do yet, but I'm happy the car runs now.

I think when I set my S-AFC II to the 2nd data set, it wasn't set up with the right sensor type. It's just a theory and I haven't checked it out to see for sure, but it makes sense as to why the ECU had it's little tantraum.
 
I JUST did the same thing to my TSi last week. I found that the car ran MUCH better with the base knob not where they said to put it. I'm pretty sure it's on 450 as well. I have RC 550s in there with the AFC zeroed out.
Which is why in the newest edition of the tuning guide, they said that they're going to use percentages of airflow to represent the injector compensation, rather than telling you what setting to use for an injector size. It's misleading, and it's not as cut and dry as finding your injector out of a table and using that compensation setting.
I'd like to think I have mine pretty well tuned after a couple weeks.
 
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