Getting ready for clutch install (act 2600)..

[firebirdvert305]

Well guys the car has got 137k on it...and the mods in profile are just killing the stock clutch. Well before i start the clutch....i wanna be ready on to what i need first...Im gonna get a brand new slave cylinder and master cylinder....I was curious to know if i should buy a new clutch release fork, pivot ball and stainless steel braided clutch line? Also should i use the ACT throw out bearing or order a stock one? Lemme know what you people did on used on your installs....Thanx guys

 

[TSIfreek]

I am not a fan of ACT clutches because of the problems they are having with the springs in the street disks poping out. I went with a South Bend DXD fematic SS clutch and love it.
I would get a SS clutch line,New fork wouldnt hurt, resurface your flywheel to the correct step height and put a washer under the clutch pivit ball so you have more adjustment for the slave cylinder rod and so the clutch will acually disengauge. Dont forget about the trany fluid.

 

[BrokenTsi]

he pretty much summed it up. Use loctite on the flywheel bolts, i like to torque my pressure plate bolts to about 18-20ft lbs. I use OEM throw out bearings. I have used an ACT one before, it worked fine but....

I also use Penzoil synchromesh from autozone. Shep recommends it. I've always used ACT, they have been good to me, im afraid to try an alternative, but that clutchthat TSIfreek mentioned sounds pretty good.

Dont forget about the small bolt on the backside of the trans. A lot of dsms dont have them for some reason from previous owners and it can cause a bell housing to break. It threads backwards from the block into the transmission.

And dont forget about dowel pins, very important. I leave them in the block when putting transmissions back in. There are 2, one in the front and one in the back and they can come up missing if you're not paying attention. Those are very important as well for proper tranny alignment.

And to make things quicker, you dont have to pull the axles completely off, I never do, just swing them out of the way. Saves some time and headaches. Have fun.

 

[kanderson111]

I would use the ACT throw out bearing, it looks very much like the stock one. When you get the transmission off make sure you check for oil leaking from the rear seal. I had to replace the rear seal and put a sleeve on the crankshaft because it was grooved from the seal.

Also, you would be one of the few lucky ones if you don't end up having to get your clutch pedal welded. Even with a new master and slave cylinder, if you have slop in your clutch pedal the 2600 will not disengage.

In the event that you have to get your clutch pedal welded, let me know if you have any problems. I had to do this pita job last summer.

 

[kicker91laser]

When I installed my ACT 2600, I sent my stock flywheel to RRE to have it resurfaced, I believe they charged me 50 bucks to do it, I just don't trust all machine shops, especially when you could ruin a $400 clutch just to save $10-15. Otherwise, everything else stated is exactly what I have done when I did my clutch(except I used BG Syncroshift, but I may try the Pennzoil next time ) Oh yeah, be sure to torque the tranny bolts to factory specs.

 

[1SloColt]

I just got finished with an ACT install about 2 weeks ago. ACT clutches are what I recommend cause they have worked well for all the cars I've been involved with that make good power. ACT throwout bearing is a good idea. You can adjust the clutch pedal when you put the new clutch in but make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced like mentioned above. If the cracks are really bad then you might as well upgrade to an ACT flywheel also. Bleed the clutch thoroughly after the install before you take it for a test drive.

 

[markGSX]

Taboo fork is a good idea. My 2600 snapped the stock fork like a twig.

 

[kanderson111]

Taboo fork is a good idea. My 2600 snapped the stock fork like a twig.

Can you still get the Taboo fork. Last I heard, many people had sent this guy their money but didn't receive the products. (Apparently Taboo had an auto accident and was not responding to emails, and no one had seen him around.)

 

[firebirdvert305]

guys i got a fidanza flywheel that i forgot to mention that will be put on with this combo as well....Should i invest in a extended clutch cylinder rod? Whats the deal with these clutches not being able to disenguage?

 

[snox135]

As long as the ACT throw out bearing is the one with the plastic sleeve I would use it. It's the older ones with the metal that people didn't like using.

If you ever thought of upgrading to a lightweight flywheel now is the time.

I personally use Redline Heavy Shock-Proof gear oil. I know several people that are running pretty powerfull set up's on the stock tranny with this oil. One is making over 500whp on an AWD that he drags/ street races alot. His car still has the stock transmission. Yes, I do know that 500whp is not ALOT of power, but it is a decent number on the stock trans.

 

[jetdriven]

I just put a new act2600 in my 93 AWD. I had the flywheel surfaced properly (step .609) and used new flywheels bolts torqued to 110 ft. lbs.

I put in a new clutch fork, pivot ball (shimmed 1.5mm) and used an oem mitsu TOB. The one that came with my act was a metal sleeve and was an offbrand ### bearing. I dont think running a steel sleeved bearing on an aluminum input bearing retainer was a good idea.

Then I installed a SS clutch line and topped the trans off with BG synchroshift. The car shifts great (better than with syncromesh) and engages 1/3rd the way up from the floor.

Hope this helps.

 

[markGSX]

Can you still get the Taboo fork. Last I heard, many people had sent this guy their money but didn't receive the products. (Apparently Taboo had an auto accident and was not responding to emails, and no one had seen him around.)

Ah, I did not realize that. Been out of the dsm game for about a year.

 

[TSIfreek]

guys i got a fidanza flywheel that i forgot to mention that will be put on with this combo as well....Should i invest in a extended clutch cylinder rod? Whats the deal with these clutches not being able to disenguage?

The reason is that when you get the flywheel machined it changes the geomety because you are putting the fork throw out bearing farther away. If you are putting a new flywheel on with the correct height I would still use a thin washer under the clutch ball to give more ajustment on the master cylinder rod. The extended slave rod is a bandaid dont use one.
Also apply grease to the inside of the release bearing were it would slide on the shaft on the trany clean the shaft before doing so with a scotch britght pad and grease the clutch pivit ball itself.

 

[snox135]

If you are putting a new flywheel on with the correct height I would still use a thin washer under the clutch ball to give more ajustment on the master cylinder rod. The extended slave rod is a bandaid dont use one.

And what would you call putting a washer behind it? I've never used either but they both sound like bandaid solutions.

 

[jetdriven]

the shim under the pivot ball brings the fork closer to the slave cylinder when the clutch is disengaged. (car is at rest). When you extend the slave rod it pushes the fork out and it goes through a perpendicular point to the flywheel then arcs in. The shim allows the perpendicular point to occur later, allowing more effective clutch release bearing throw.

It gives you a farther throw on the release bearing. and it compensates for a little slop in the pedal assy, which all 1G's have.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

USE A MITSU TOB. Every experience with an act tob has resulted in either clutch or complete transmission failure. Be safe, go oem.

 

[DevilSperm]

Ive abused the hell out of my ACT TOB and its still perfectly fine. And its the plastic one. Anyway, if you get a new fulcrum ball and fork, there really shouldnt be any need to shim it at all. Get the new clutch line and while youre doing all this, you might as well throw in new flywheel bolts to be on the safe side, i think mine were $6

 

[Dream On]

Is getting a new slave and master cylinder really necessary if they aren't leaking? I'm about to put in a Spec Stage 3 with a Fidanza flywheel into my otherwise stock car. Thanks.

 

[kicker91laser]

I don't know much about the Spec clutches, but if the pressure plate is pretty stiff, it might be a good idea to replace those items, you could always run it with the old ones for now, you may have to replace them later. I replaced my slave cylinder when I installed my 2600, the master is still the original. It just depends on if you really want to replace them now, or later.