Gauges Not Working!

[Foreverfalcon40]

I just installed a few guages. I installed the S7 Reverse Glow guages in my cluster and NOW MY CLUSTER WON'T WORK. The needles won't move! They worked prior to installtion. The needles are not on tight nor any fuses are blown.

Also my Cobalt Series Boost Guage is not working either. It lights up but I doesn't read boost. I checked the lines and there are no kinks, nor the feril fitting is not to tight either. I have it hooked from the Fuel Pressure Soleniod to the Head.

My A/F guage is not working wither. It's a norrowband so its tapped into pin #76 on the ECU of my 95 GST. It lights up and when the car is started it has two bars on Stioch which is rich. When I give it gas it doen't move. The car is not being driven while doing this, I have it in neitral and I give it a REV.

Obviosly I can't drive b/c none of guage clusters work!

PLEASE HELP!

 

[B-Dog98]

I might be able to help you with the boost gauge because I installed the exact same one last friday. Now did you use the nylon tubing that it came with or did you switch to a rubber vacuum hose? Also when my Cobalt gauge came in I only had an adapter fitting and compression fitting to attach the tube to the back of the gauge. I had to go pick up an 1/8" ferrule fitting from a local store. This should be a very small piece not much bigger than a BB, so make sure you have it, very easy to lose (or not include in my case).

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

Yes, I ended up lossing the one feril fitting and I immediately called autometer. They sent me four of them for free! I am using the hard nylon tubing they gave me.

 

[B-Dog98]

Ok this is going to be a little long.......

Now if you want to keep the nylon hose thats fine, but most would argue against it. So what I did was use vacuum hosing in conjuction with the nylon tube. I used the nylon tube to attatch to the back of the gauge as well as the T-fitting. I did this because as you know Autometer supplies you with all the stuff to attach it. Then what I did was cut the nylon tubing about 2 in. from the T-fitting and back of the gauge. The vacuum hose has to fit very snug against the nylon tube if your going to do this.
I then slid the hose over the tubing at the back of the gauge and proceeded to run it through the sterring column boot up into the engine bay. Then I just slid the other end of the hose onto the other end of the tubing and it was done.
Now this way is going to prevent the kinks and cracks that will eventually come with that nylon tubing. Personally mine worked right away, no problems at all. Its hard to tell why yours isnt working because you've tapped the right source, so it has to be the tubing or gauge itself with something wrong.
Oh and make sure when you connect the tubing to the gauge that the tubing goes through the compression fitting first, then the ferrule, then finally the adapter. Tighten this down pretty good but not excessively. If you can give it a good tug and it doesnt come out your ok. Also just do some general checks where you T'd into the line.
Sorry about the length just trying to help the best I can.

 

[dsmdragon]

well, one reason why you might not have speedo cluster working is the conection where it just plugs in the hole board. Try taking it out check that everything on the back is copasetic,then plug it back in and take a drive with everything off. Also if you removed the needles and didn't leave them at 0MPH when you took them off then your speedo might not be calabrated to your mph anymore. So try to remember what you did there.

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

Got the cluster working again, but now the stock boost controller, does not work. Think I broke but then again no biggie b.c. I have the AUTOMETER one, WHICH DOES NOT WORK. I have come to the conclusion the the boost gauge is FUBARED b.c I blew into and it did not move one bit. Thought it would be more then the turbo. BUT STILL THE AF gauge is not working! Grrrr. Both of these gauges are brandnew! The only that works is my volts gauge and I bought that used!

 

[StR8sPo0Ln]

The stock guage is not an accurate guage anyways. Since i have installed my mechanical guage, i have not looked at my stock one since. You will find that the new guage that you installed on your car is a much more accurate guage, so go by that one. But i would still look into why it is not working. You might have disconnected the vacume line when you installed all of your other guages. Also, with your air fuel guage the reason it may not be working, is from a bad O2 sensor they are very easy to replace. Go to a autostore, such as advance auto or autozone and buy the bosche universal O2 sensor. They work great and are easy to install.

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

The 02 Sensor is BRAND NEW, I replaced it b/c that was one of the parts that were stolen off of it. Yeah, I know the stock boost gauge is inaccurate, it works off the TB position. But, I like to not pick things, and I am just a little upset.

Heck while building the car, I messed up one of the HVAC knobs, still useable, but the big scratch on it didn;t sit me right, so I went to a junkyard and got another one. Looks like new matches the other.

All of my vacuum lines are hooked up, there are no kinks in any of the lines. THE CAR RUNS LIKE A CHAMP, after 7 months I can;t wait to take her home. She is running a llittle rich, and when you hit WOT around 4K RPMS she Boggs a little due to the fact I am venting my BOV w/o the blow thru set up.

Back to topic ( I am sorry, I am little excited!)

 

[StR8sPo0Ln]

Why are you venting, please tell me you have a maf translator and gm maf. If not you should be recirculating. The only way you could even get by not recirculating, is by having a bov that stays closed at idle.

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

No, I don't. My car is a theft recovery that I built and pieced myself. I bought a few things nefore I joined the boards. Budget is way over then I exspected whic explains still using narrowband AF and other miscellous body pieces missing.

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

Ok, So I worked on the car for a good 15 mins today. I filled up the tank with 6 gallons of gas and NOW THE GAS GUAGE DON:T WORK. Even when I turn on the key, it does not move. Heck when you put ## finger on it, its hard to move resistance wise and when you remove your finger, the gauge needle stays there instead of moving back to position. WTF?

Also, I toyed with AF gauge for a lilttle bit, it was a crap wiring job done by myself which I find hard to believe. Instead of splicing into the wire, I got the connec tor that you close over the wire. From there it has a female connector inw hich I put a male connector to from AF gauge. So I dunno? Think about going to just splice it. When AF Gauge works, I think it doesn;t work properly. It doesn't sweep. It just goes from lean to rich. For example. Lets say 1 is lean and 10 is rich. If its at 8 it only lights up 8, it doesnt light up 1 thru 8. Is this right?

 

[Foreverfalcon40]

Ok...Well anyway...

I did some searching. I found that the someone had a temp gauge issuse. Someone said to reset the springs on the needle ansd it worked. How tdo you reset the spring for the needles?

The fuel gauge says that it just resets itself? Possible?

I just got off the phone with Autometer today and he said the T fitting is not getting enough vacuum from where I have it hooked up (block to the fuel pressure solenoid) He recomended from the BOV. I told him here on tuners they say the FPS is the best place. He is stumped, wants me to hook it up to a compressor and see if it works. Also said that while the car is in neutral and revving it will not cuase the boost gauge to work. I call B.S. ### when you rev the car my BOV vents LOUD at 6k AND QUIETER AROUND 4K.

 

[joe-phillips1]

Hello ,

What did you do to get the Temp and Fuel gauges working. Installed reverse glow gauges and lost
both gauges ??

Help..anyone..

Thx
Joe