fuel pump rewire grounding

[crimsondragon]

I'm completely stumped. The Raxtron guide on the rewire is used on a 2g Spyder so that ground he used is not even there for me. How did you 2g FWD non-spyders ground it?

 

[turboglenn]

i just used the ground wire that ran to the pump to ground my relay if that's what you're talking about. I cut the power wire about an inch from the connector, then hooked the relay for the re-wire to that wire directly. Then spliced the ground for the relay into the stock pump ground and use it to trigger the pump to come on just like stock!

I just put my car back together from putting in a new 255HP to replace the old 255, i can take a pic of the setup if you'd like, but honestly it's so simple you should be able to figure it out. Write ups are more of a guide than a real instruction book in my eyes. Everyone will have a slighly different way of doing one thing or another.

 

[crimsondragon]

Yeah I did everything like that but then you have to ground it to the car chassis.
2G DSM FWD Fuel Pump Rewire Instructions
5th picture down. That point is not there since I'm not a Spyder.

 

[turboglenn]

Yea, i just spliced it into the factory ground and it's been fine. I had to rewire it because i was running out of fuel after 5500 RPM once i went to an AFPR with -6 return. You will be fine using the factory ground. OR, you can drill a hole and use a self tapping screw to make a new ground. All parts of the body that are emtal should have continuity to ground, so it doesn't matter if that hole is there on yours or not, you can ground it to anything.

 

[DSMunknown]

Try reading through post #10 and the first link in post #24 in the thread below for some extra hints on grounding possibilities for the rest of us 2G guys. BTW, I'm still using the same grounding point in post #24 - hasn't changed after almost a full year. No complaints whatsoever.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/247162-fuel-pump-rewire.html

 

[crimsondragon]

Thanks guys. I actually hooked it up past the rear seats to the frame between the strut towers. I had plenty of slack for it. However, unfortunately my car will not start. I must have messed up somewhere so I will be taking a voltmeter in the morning and checking each point for voltage.

 

[casperfast]

the entire idea of the pump rewire is to "help" the retarted stock insufficient wires that have too high of resistance. so anything you do to avoid stock wires is better. when you have your rear lower seat removed the bolt fathest to the passenger side that holds the seat back on is a perfect ground. pull it out, sand it to bare metal, put an open circle connector on your "new" ground wire...done. this ground it less than 1 ohm of resistance. if you use the factory your looking at anywhere from 2-8 ohms.

 

[crimsondragon]

Ok I can't figure out what's wrong. I reverted back to stock positive wires but left the rewired grounds alone and it started up fine. That knocked off the positive crimps from both connector and harness, and the ground is fine. It also cleared the air whether I damaged the harness or not when I shoved the screwdriver through the grommet. So that means somewhere along from the battery all the way to relay that's bad. I don't think it's the fuse holder. I checked it and the fuse is fine. I tried to see if I could spark it up with the ignition key on without the fuse holder and nothing so I'm guessing it has to be further back. The crimp connection on the 10 ga is fine though a bit shoddy. The last thing is the relay. Could that easily break? I took off the cover and everything seemed fine. I'm stuck again.