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Fuel pump and multiple fuel issues, need help

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untouchablecc

15+ Year Contributor
852
13
Mar 21, 2008
Mt. pleasant, Pennsylvania
I have been working on this fuel pump for about a week off and on and i really need to get this car on the road. This is a 92 fwd turbo.

The main issues im having with the car is the fuel pump has not been kicking on. Now im not new to dsms at all. I was outside one day went out and started it and it was fine a week later the car had not moved or been touched and i went to start it and there was no fuel whatsoever. I took and ECU and that gold relay next to it out of my car and used it in my buddys awd and it started his car. I took his stuff out of his car and it did NOT start mine. I check the fuses at the positive battery post all fine, even tried switching those. So i could not figure out what the issue was. I used my voltmeter and checked the ohms when my buddy hit the key and the resistance changed so i guess its getting power. I ended up taking out the pump and putting a walbro 255 in and it still did not start the car.

So i decided to dukes of hazard this one and just hard wire the fuel pump and it turns on when i hook it up to the battery so i cannot figure this out to save my life.
Also another issue im having is the fuel gauge does not work at all but it did before i took the gas tank out and drilled out the rusted screws. I just went outside and reached in the tank to see if the float is stuck and that thing does not even seem like its supposed to move im completely lost and i dont really want to take the tank back out.

On a side note does anyone know of something i can use to seal up gas because I need it. Jb weld did not hold up and i read on here that you can use grey rtv. I have to get this thing back together for internship.

Does anyone know if the fwd fuel sender is supposed to float or stay stationary because it does not move when i reach in the tank to check it.
 
the sender is free floating, somethings wong there.

As for the fuel pump, even with it hard wired,<del> it does not kick on?</del> I missed that oops. So whats happening now? Its got fuel pressure, but will it crank, and not start, or not even crank

You need to check voltage from the fuel sender plug, to ground, it needs to be between10 and 12v's. ohms don't matter this second,

I'm not sure if grey rtv will work or not, go to the store and find one that is fuel compliant.
 
Well i took the tank out and had it upside down and side ways and stuff and when i checked the floater it doesnt move so i will be removing that next.

I have Wednesday off and im going to check the volts and see what i come up with. Do i just put a test probe in each end of the plug like i did to check the ohms and just use volts.

When i have the pump hardwired it runs just fine. I know thats not the right way of doing it but i gotta get something going here so im inspected. I drove it clear to somerset county and back. The main issue i had is after drilling through the backing plate to run the pos wire to the pump the gas ate through the JB weld(which is what every redneck around here told me would seal gas).
 
Its either the ecu,mpi relay, or wiring that is preventing your fuel pump from automatically working.

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Check for voltage at pin 2 of the fuel pump connector.
If theres no power there, check for voltage at pin 2 of the mpi relay. If there is power at the mpi relay, hten its a wiring issue, if not then we'll go from here.
 

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Okay thank you very much i will check this on wednesday and get back to you with what i come up with. I am having a guy i know weld up a new tube out of the back of the fuel pump assembly where the old one rusted off and i will be doing that wednesday as well.

On a side note. I bought this car because the kid thought the clutch was getting a form of fluid on it either trans or oil because it would smoke like crazy when you put it in gear and drove. Took the clutch out and the pressure plate fell in 5 parts. Not one leak. I put everything back together and started it a few times and ran it out in the drive way and one day i went out to start it and it ran kind of rough like it had a miss and then a week later it did not start at all.
 
well we know its not YOUR ecu and Your MPI relay. you said you took both of those two key components and stuck them in your buddies car and it started right up. All that leaves you is wiring to check then. You need to check for pwr at the pump. I dont have link, i have ems so not sure what your options are but if you can setup link to prime the pump when ign is on. if not then you have to check while cranking. since you will probably have no voltage there move to the mpi relay.

now you need to check pin 3 on the relay for voltage, should be 12 volts. if that is present good. Take a piece of wire and ground pin 7 i think it is....hard to see the drawing when you blow it up things get blurry. . with that grounded you should see 12 volts on pin 2 of the relay now which is your FP pwr. if 12v is present on pin 2 at the relay then the relay is good. 12v should be present then at the FP pin 2 as stated above.

if this doesnt work then relay is bad, if it does work then something is up with grounding control for the mpi from the ecu.
 
There is a diagnostic fuel pump plug right by the battery in the engine bay, you can jump power to that for testing purposes.

If you supply power to it, and the pump gets power, then you have a very small area to investigate. I can post a pic up later if your not sure what I mean.

Sent from my Droid
 
oh i forgot to add, Seal All is the brand name of a sealer you can use. It is gas resistant, works great i used it on the molex plug for my fuel pump connector.
 
I used my voltmeter and checked the ohms when my buddy hit the key and the resistance changed so i guess its getting power.

You dont ever want to measure volts with your multimeter set to ohms. This could damage circuitry as well as your meter. It can also be unsafe, although at 12 volts it wont cause your meter to explode, but none the less, its a bad habit.

Have you done a fuel pump re-wire?
 
You dont ever want to measure volts with your multimeter set to ohms. This could damage circuitry as well as your meter. It can also be unsafe, although at 12 volts it wont cause your meter to explode, but none the less, its a bad habit.

Good advise in general, but I believe here he is just calling a digital multi meter a voltmeter.
 
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