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Fuel Line Upgrade/Injector upgrade issues

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915dsm

15+ Year Contributor
202
0
Nov 9, 2010
El Paso, Texas
I need help figuring out what is wrong after upgrading my fuel lines to 8AN and RC 750 injectors.

I upgraded the feed line (Tank to Fuel Rail) and return that goes to the regulator.

I have dialed in the injectors with (Ceddy Mods) ecu flash and adjusted the latencys for the injectors.

Fuel Pressure is set to 43. My fuel pump is a Walpro 255 rewired.

My car wont start, it seems like its chocked with too much fuel. My o2 housing and exhaust manifold gasket look like if its full of fuel.

Could it be the regulator? Should i lower the pressure? Could it be bad injectors? It was working fine with my FIC 550's and stock lines.

any sugestions and help is very appreciated.:banghead:
 
Im sorry but the temp has to do with the fuel it dumps? Im leaning more for it tobe the resistor box or ecu. Damn, even the tune.

If the ECU doesn't know the proper temperature of the engine, it will dump too much fuel thinking that its needed for a cold start or to warm up the engine.
 
If the ECU doesn't know the proper temperature of the engine, it will dump too much fuel thinking that its needed for a cold start or to warm up the engine.

I see. That makes sence, we just removed the head and we saw that the timing was off. That could have caused the issue to? The crank spocket had a cracked teeth that could have made te belt jumped.
 
If the belt has slipped check for bent valves, and yes, and can definitely cause a no start issue. It's pretty critical the timing is perfect.
 
If the belt has slipped check for bent valves, and yes, and can definitely cause a no start issue. It's pretty critical the timing is perfect.

Thanks for the info. once we put back together and it doesnt start again, then ill change the temp sensor and start troubleshooting again.

thanks. again.
 
Thanks for the info. once we put back together and it doesnt start again, then ill change the temp sensor and start troubleshooting again.

thanks. again.

Before replacing the sensor, test it to make sure it's bad.

Get a temperature reading of the coolant with a thermometer. Some of the available multimeter have temperature probes on them which work well and are quick acting.

Get the temperature and then what you'll do next is measure the resistance of the sensor itself by putting the leads onto the 2 pins. It is not polarized so either lead can be on either pin. These are the values you are looking for

Temperature [*C (*F)] // Resistance (k Ohm)

0 (32) // 5.1 - 6.5
20 (68) // 2.1 - 2.7
40 (104) // 0.9 - 1.3
80 (176) // 0.26 - 0.36


The values for your injectors are generally only a starting point, you will need to adjust them so I would try removing fuel either from the injector sizing or the latency (dead time) to remove injected fuel. See if that makes any difference.

Do you still have the head off or is everything bolted back up? As 1990AWD mentioned, if the belt slipped, it would be good to check your compression as well to ensure the valves didn't get bent causing loss of compression and the inability to start.
 
I agree with a no start because of being off timing. One tooth off is all it takes for A No start issue. Im referencing that to Honda because im a tech for them, but depending on how the engine software is set up its is more than likely the same deal. As far as the possible cylinder flooding, you may want to look into leaking injectors. Just a thought.
 
Before replacing the sensor, test it to make sure it's bad.

Get a temperature reading of the coolant with a thermometer. Some of the available multimeter have temperature probes on them which work well and are quick acting.

Get the temperature and then what you'll do next is measure the resistance of the sensor itself by putting the leads onto the 2 pins. It is not polarized so either lead can be on either pin. These are the values you are looking for

Temperature [*C (*F)] // Resistance (k Ohm)

0 (32) // 5.1 - 6.5
20 (68) // 2.1 - 2.7
40 (104) // 0.9 - 1.3
80 (176) // 0.26 - 0.36


The values for your injectors are generally only a starting point, you will need to adjust them so I would try removing fuel either from the injector sizing or the latency (dead time) to remove injected fuel. See if that makes any difference.

Do you still have the head off or is everything bolted back up? As 1990AWD mentioned, if the belt slipped, it would be good to check your compression as well to ensure the valves didn't get bent causing loss of compression and the inability to start.

thanks for the additional tips. where do i get the temp from, do i remove the cap and insert the thermometer there? ill make sure I do the sensor testing as you instructed. the head is going to be taken to the machine shop sometime next week. im sure they will tell me if i have bent valves. hopefully i will install the head this coming weekend, i still need to get the oil and water pump. the oil pump is all cracked. im also going to install the balance kit eliminator.

thanks liquid X.
 
Are these new injectors (to you)? They could be faulty and be staying open all the time. Test them with a 9v battery and listen to make sure they click open and close. I don't know why all you went all of a sudden to coolant temp sensor. He messed with the fuel components. Check your injectors and then your regulator.
 
Are these new injectors (to you)? They could be faulty and be staying open all the time. Test them with a 9v battery and listen to make sure they click open and close. I don't know why all you went all of a sudden to coolant temp sensor. He messed with the fuel components. Check your injectors and then your regulator.


Hey Tron. they are used off an evo 8. i discarded that it was the injectors cause i put my FIC 550's back that were working good and did the same thing. i also swapped the regulator to an Aeromotive 1000. my tune was scaled to 750 and changed it to 550 when i did the swap. it had to come down to timing, resistor box or ECU. i will find out once the head and timing components are installed.

this is all good info. when it comes down to troubleshooting, all this things play a role in starting the car.

nevertheless i will test the RC 750 if i want to use them.

Thanks for your feedback.
 
The problem to my car not starting was my timing. I decide to pull the head of and the timing belt had jumped a couple of teeth and the firing order was not correct.

Problem solved. Thanks to all for the feedback and help.
 
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