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Fuel Cut/ Bog at 6k RPMs?

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Bloody Panda

10+ Year Contributor
63
0
May 13, 2012
Homer Glen, Illinois
My car has a CEL light on and I have no way to scan it, its a 1g. Yes I know about the whole led flash thing. Whenever I try to get past 6k rpms its like its hitting a fuel cut or something. The car will not at all get past 6k. Any idles what it might be? Thanks.
 
Scan the cel. That will probably pinpoint the problem.

Could be fuel cut from whatevers tripping the light. Probably not a great idea to try and get to redline with it when the car has a bright yellow light telling you something is obviously wrong...
 
I dont think the led flash trick works on a 1g. I use a piezo buzzer.Connection:
Connect the positive of the piezo buzzer or volt meter or LED to pin #1 and the ground to #12 pin on the port. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/319844-1g-code-reader-cel-code-reader.html
you can get a piezo buzzer at radio shack for under $5. and get some alligator clips and attach it to the port. it will beep out the code. just connect the buzzor and turn the ignition on but dont start the car. its very easy. only two wires. i was gonna connect mine in the car and just have a switch on it so i can read codes on the go.
 
If the door is closed at 6k rpm, don't keep knocking on that door with a CEL lit up with no knowledge of what code it is. That my friend, is how you bl0w your sh*t up.

As stated above invest in a handheld scanner.
 
I dont think the led flash trick works on a 1g. I use a piezo buzzer.Connection:
Connect the positive of the piezo buzzer or volt meter or LED to pin #1 and the ground to #12 pin on the port. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/319844-1g-code-reader-cel-code-reader.html
you can get a piezo buzzer at radio shack for under $5. and get some alligator clips and attach it to the port. it will beep out the code. just connect the buzzor and turn the ignition on but dont start the car. its very easy. only two wires. i was gonna connect mine in the car and just have a switch on it so i can read codes on the go.

Thanks, I'm going to go to radio shack and try to find one the first chance I get. And I'm not always trying to get past 6k with a CEL, I was just trying to see if anyone else had the same problem and could tell me how they fixed it.

Alright, so I bought a buzzer today and did everything it said to do and I'm getting a code for a EGR, doesn't make sense as to way that would make me fuel cut.
 
there might be more then one code. also if our cars get a check engine light, the car will run rich most times as a safety measure. you shouldnt be hitting fuel cut unless your over 16psi give or take a little. maybe running rich cuased your plugs to foul. you may have already been running rich before the code came up and it could be running super rich now. id pull the spark plugs. make sure they are regular ngk (not platinum), and see if they smell like fuel and are wet or black.
 
there might be more then one code. also if our cars get a check engine light, the car will run rich most times as a safety measure. you shouldnt be hitting fuel cut unless your over 16psi give or take a little. maybe running rich cuased your plugs to foul. you may have already been running rich before the code came up and it could be running super rich now. id pull the spark plugs. make sure they are regular ngk (not platinum), and see if they smell like fuel and are wet or black.

Thanks for the info, I know I am running slightly rich and I just put a new O2 in which did help. I have newer NGK Iridium Plugs, not the platinums. I found someone who is going to scan my car this saturday. Hopefully that will help.
 
i have the same thing in my 2g, but i have no wideband or safc...will a wideband take care of the fuel cut?
 
Are you sure it's fuel cut? Not possibly ignition/speed limit cut? Fuel cut scares the bejeebers out of me, like my tranny blew up or something.
 
there might be more then one code. also if our cars get a check engine light, the car will run rich most times as a safety measure. you shouldnt be hitting fuel cut unless your over 16psi give or take a little.

None of this is accurate. The only running issues I'm aware of that will cause the ECU to dump fuel is a faulty coolant temperature sensor. When I say dump fuel, I mean the car will hardly move under it's own power and stink of raw gas. There is also no set boost limit before hitting fuel cut, the ECU reads airflow not pressure. And not all turbos produce the same airflow per psi.

Thanks for the info, I know I am running slightly rich and I just put a new O2 in which did help. I have newer NGK Iridium Plugs, not the platinums. I found someone who is going to scan my car this saturday. Hopefully that will help.

Iridiums are good, but only so long as you can keep them clean. The stock tune is very rich and can easily foul a sensitive plug such as those. Not saying that's your problem, but when it comes time to replace them I'd get NGK Copper plugs, part number BPR6ES.
 
None of this is accurate. The only running issues I'm aware of that will cause the ECU to dump fuel is a faulty coolant temperature sensor. When I say dump fuel, I mean the car will hardly move under it's own power and stink of raw gas. There is also no set boost limit before hitting fuel cut, the ECU reads airflow not pressure. And not all turbos produce the same airflow per psi.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=153262668
fuel cut is caused by to much air going threw the maf. This can happen when the boost is to high (without tuning) or when you have boost leaks among many other reasons. Alot of Engines mods can cause more airflow threw the maf. What i should have said was... on a stock engine anything over 16psi can be unsafe without monitoring. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/349077-how-much-boost-till-hit-fuel-cut.html . There are many sensors that can cause a rich condition actualy. Your car can somtimes still run with a bad maf and run rich. Also a bad o2 sensor can cause a rich condition but not even throw a cel untell it is completly dead. A bad tps or a tps out of adjustment can also cause a rich condition. Fact is when some of these sensors foul, your ecu will cause a rich condition to be on the safe side as a safety feature. Im not saying a massive fuel dump, anything under 14.7 can be considered rich as there would not be enough air to burn all the fuel in most cases. Threw my research this is some of what i have learned. sorry if i am incorrect.....
 
Are you sure it's fuel cut? Not possibly ignition/speed limit cut? Fuel cut scares the bejeebers out of me, like my tranny blew up or something.

I'm not sure what it is, all I know is that when I hit exactly 6k rpms, it just falls flat on it's face. I'm running stock boost too.
 
There are ways to change the rev limiter, usually people want it higher but i could see how someone might want it lower for reliability reasons and maybe because they like the sound of it. has the car always done this since you owned it? I wonder if the previous owner messed with it. You could try to youtube eclipse rev limiter and see if thats what your car sounds like.
 
There are ways to change the rev limiter, usually people want it higher but i could see how someone might want it lower for reliability reasons and maybe because they like the sound of it. has the car always done this since you owned it? I wonder if the previous owner messed with it. You could try to youtube eclipse rev limiter and see if thats what your car sounds like.

Yes it has always done it since I bought it. I also put a new ecu in it. And it has done it with both Ecus.
 
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7LvOh964e4]1g DSM rev limiter kicking in ~4k - YouTube[/ame]
same problem you are having
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4aVJSjxbx8]1G DSM Burnout - YouTube[/ame]
a normal rev limiter sound...
 
fuel cut is caused by to much air going threw the maf. This can happen when the boost is to high (without tuning) or when you have boost leaks among many other reasons. Alot of Engines mods can cause more airflow threw the maf. What i should have said was... on a stock engine anything over 16psi can be unsafe without monitoring. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/349077-how-much-boost-till-hit-fuel-cut.html .

Right, one main cause of fuel cut is too much airflow. Boost pressure and airflow are not the same thing, a larger turbo will generate more airflow at the same pressure. With no way to monitor airflow, fuel flow, knock, etc, the safe boost limit is stock boost.

There are many sensors that can cause a rich condition actualy. Your car can somtimes still run with a bad maf and run rich. Also a bad o2 sensor can cause a rich condition but not even throw a cel untell it is completly dead. A bad tps or a tps out of adjustment can also cause a rich condition. Fact is when some of these sensors foul, your ecu will cause a rich condition to be on the safe side as a safety feature. Im not saying a massive fuel dump, anything under 14.7 can be considered rich as there would not be enough air to burn all the fuel in most cases. Threw my research this is some of what i have learned. sorry if i am incorrect.....

Those sensors cause rich condition because they control fuel. A flatlined O2 sensor could keep telling the ECU to richen the mix. Same for the coolant temp sensor. When it fails, it reports a coolant temperature of something like -70°. Since the ECU adjusts fuel based on coolant temps, an extremely low reading like that causes the ECU to dramatically increase the fuel volume. It's not the ECU going into a failsafe mode, it's just reacting to the inputs. Emissions sensors don't have that same effect on fueling. If you remove the Fuel Pressure Solenoid, the ECU is going to throw a CEL. But it's not going to start going into panic mode or anything, it's simply an emissions code.

As for 14.7, that's what you should see during idle and cruise. But these cars are tuned from the factory to run AFR's down to 9.3:1, which is extremely rich.

I'm not sure what it is, all I know is that when I hit exactly 6k rpms, it just falls flat on it's face. I'm running stock boost too.

I would start with the basics. Check the ignition system, run a boost leak test, and get the CEL read. Then go from there.
 
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