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Front struts (1g awd)

Coryx7correls

Probationary Member
22
0
May 4, 2011
Fitchburg, Massachusetts
I'm going to pick up my first car tomorrow and thankfully it is as listed in the title :). He said the only problem with it (aside from a minor cosmetic) is the front struts need to be replaced. I've replaced struts before but should I be alert of anything extra dealing with this car? And is it any different replacing front struts on a 94 TSi (2" Eibach drop)?
 

Coryx7correls

Probationary Member
22
0
May 4, 2011
Fitchburg, Massachusetts
Sorry. I meant to say is it different installing front struts on the 94 TSi compared to any other regular car?

Put car on jack stands.
Take off tires.
Unbolt calipers.
Remove rotor.
Take out the 2 bolts connecting the strut.
Disconnect strut from strut mount.
Compress spring.
Take bolt off the top of the strut.
Remove spring VERY CAREFULLY.
Install new hardware and spring on new strut.
Put the new strut on.
 

98awdturbo

Probationary Member
61
1
Dec 9, 2010
Waterford, Michigan
No replacing a strut is straight forward, drop spring or otherwise. Nothing complicated normal macphearson style strut.
 

Calan

DSM Wiseman
7,253
290
Jan 16, 2007
OKC, Oklahoma
Sorry. I meant to say is it different installing front struts on the 94 TSi compared to any other regular car?

No. Just be sure to align the strut with the top plate when re-installing the spring. There are alignment holes that you can use to get them lined up.

You may also want to replace the top strut bolts on the hubs with these while you're at it: Eibach Front Camber Bolts ;)

Yo shouldn't have to remove the rotor either.

Or the caliper for that matter, if you can get to the lower strut bolts. Just unbolt the brake line bracket from the strut.
 

1990AWD

Supporting VIP
8,539
18
Apr 27, 2009
Langham, SK_Canada
Just take the whole shock and spring assembly out (two bolts bottom, one bolt brake line, and three bolts on top) and compress it once it's off the car and replace the shock. Re assemble and install back on car. On a 1g there is more than enough room to work without removing the caliper/rotor.
 

stevenr816

Proven Member
54
0
Jan 29, 2009
Phoenix, Arizona
Make sure to get an alignment after your done just to make sure everythings in check
 

DJ23GSX

Proven Member
766
2
Feb 22, 2004
W. Springfield, Massachusetts
More room. Work smarter not harder. Slips right off anyways.


Assuming its a new england car rotors don't always "slip" right off LOL. Like stated above just remove the 3 tower bolts and the 2 lower bolts and take the shock and spring off in one piece then use the spring compressor to remove the bad shock and reverse the steps for installation of the new shock. If it is indeed a new england car you might want to soak the 2 lower shock bolts with some PB Blaster and let it sit over night. It will make things a lot easy to remove trust me I'm a fellow new englander :thumb:.
 

Coryx7correls

Probationary Member
22
0
May 4, 2011
Fitchburg, Massachusetts
Assuming its a new england car rotors don't always "slip" right off LOL. Like stated above just remove the 3 tower bolts and the 2 lower bolts and take the shock and spring off in one piece then use the spring compressor to remove the bad shock and reverse the steps for installation of the new shock. If it is indeed a new england car you might want to soak the 2 lower shock bolts with some PB Blaster and let it sit over night. It will make things a lot easy to remove trust me I'm a fellow new englander :thumb:.

ROFL Good point.

With that drop on the eibachs hope you're not using stock struts, Are You?

Honestly, I didn't even think about that. Does it make a huge difference?
 

Coryx7correls

Probationary Member
22
0
May 4, 2011
Fitchburg, Massachusetts
I don't want to drop a ton of money on struts though because I live in a city where you live to learn with potholes. So whats my best path to take on strut types/brands?
 

dsmchevyguy

Probationary Member
14
0
May 13, 2011
Gardena, California
Depends on the drop of the lowering springs, any thing over 1.5" will ride like crap, I would get eibach prokit & KYB gr-2's

actually not to hate or nothing but thats a bad set up cause think about it, the spring rate is very high on those eibachs you'd want something more pricier, the GR-2s would and will blow out soon its like what happened recently to my 2gen i had a coilover sleeve kit on some sensa-a-tracs, but the spring rate was hella higher on the sleeves than the shock what happened was the car collapsed on one side when i tried to get on the freeway from hitting it not even that rough, so best if you run GR-2s on the stocks cause they're pretty damn close to stocks, they wouldnt really last maybe a year or less, the best to go with the pro kit are some konis, illuminas, or some agx's. PM me if you want to know where to AGX's for a good price, but ya those are all good unless you beg to differ?

ROFL Good point.



Honestly, I didn't even think about that. Does it make a huge difference?

Yes it does cause when you lower a car like ours its very heavy on the shocks which were meant to handle the stock hieght so its already damping hard and not resting you get me. The life span of your shock could be cut by a lot
 
Last edited:

Calan

DSM Wiseman
7,253
290
Jan 16, 2007
OKC, Oklahoma
This ^.

A proven combination for an inexpensive but "decent" suspension is the Eibach Prokit + KYB AGXs. Not the greatest, but not bad for a street car or mild auto-x type stuff. I've run that set up with RM sway bars and a few other goodies for 3 years now, including some auto-x abuse... and it's still going strong. And the car actually handles pretty damn good IMO.

The biggest drawback of the AGXs is that they aren't consistent on the damping settings, so it may take a while to find the sweet spot. And that spot may be with different settings on the front or rear pair of corners.
 

dsmchevyguy

Probationary Member
14
0
May 13, 2011
Gardena, California
This ^.

A proven combination for an inexpensive but "decent" suspension is the Eibach Prokit + KYB AGXs. Not the greatest, but not bad for a street car or mild auto-x type stuff. I've run that set up with RM sway bars and a few other goodies for 3 years now, including some auto-x abuse... and it's still going strong. And the car actually handles pretty damn good IMO.

The biggest drawback of the AGXs is that they aren't consistent on the damping settings, so it may take a while to find the sweet spot. And that spot may be with different settings on the front or rear pair of corners.

Well he did say its his first car so i just feel that would be a pretty satisfying start, i mean i don't believe he'd be trying to tear up tracks already but would be pretty damn cool if he did but for now thats something to start off good on or maybe even some illuminas which RRE has told me are highly recommended by them, but since its a first car i wouldn't trying to go too hard core you know. btw that was pretty funny how u added "Not for the first few miles" but i've seen many debate on the AGX's and just heard the words "you should get some illuminas" not necessarily how great they were but i'll just read up more on them. but pro kit on illuminas or agxs sounds like a great start for performance on an everyday driver dont ya think?
 

DJ23GSX

Proven Member
766
2
Feb 22, 2004
W. Springfield, Massachusetts
I'm running Eibach pro kits and GR-2's now on my 1g and I like it so far. Its def more firm than stock suspension but maintains good ride quality as well. Seeing its your first car and your probly young you might not care so much about ride quality LOL. My last dsm had the pro kits with agx's and it was much too stiff for me even on the softest settings. They did help alot though at the track I'm getting older now and I don't like it when my jaw rattles when I hit those dam new england pot holes LOL. The gr2's are pretty cheap but they can't handle a more than an inch drop very good. I never heard of the spring rate causing the shocks to blow I've only read about the reduced shock travel blowing them when you lower the car too much on the gr2's.
 
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