1G Front right wheel has positive camber

[silentsnow31802]

Help me understand this...

My front right wheel has positive camber and I have no idea why.
I noticed when I got the car it had adjustable coilovers on it. The right front was adjusted to have more camber than the left front even though they looked the same wheel looking at the wheels. Well this is reflected now that I have replaced those coilovers with a traditional shock/spring setup and the adjustable camber plates are gone.

Nothing to me looks bent. The car has had a knock on that corner at some point in its life because the thin metal under the bumper is a little wavy. I dont think it was hard enough to bend the strut tower but since I know nothing about the cars history I dont know for sure.

Can someone give me this measurement from their 1GB real quick so I can rule out the strut tower being pushed out?
Measured from outside of driver (left) side bolt to the same bolt on the passenger (left) side.

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Here is the difference measured with a bubble level.
Driver for reference...

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Passenger... The bubble is on the opposite side of the uh... measuring thingy.
The second picture is the space on the bottom if I hold the level at the same angle as the driver side is. My assumption as where the wheel should be, if that makes sense.

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Some random pictures. Aside from dirty and maybe needing some rubbers here or there I dont see anything that would kick the camber positive.

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I know something is off I just dont know what. Im normally pretty good at figuring these things out but I dont want to start throwing more parts at it if im not sure they will solve the issue. Was going to start with a lower control arm but im not even sure that will solve anything.

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[DreamChaser7]

I have no bolts to measure from at the moment but center to center of the inside tower bolt holes I measure 38” cutting an 1” for accuracy. So 37”. That’s what mine measures anyway.

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[silentsnow31802]

I have no bolts to measure from at the moment but center to center of the inside tower bolt holes I measure 38” cutting an 1” for accuracy. So 37”. That’s what mine measures anyway.

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Excellent mine is very close to the same. I do not think the tower is bent at all. Thank you.

 

[TerminalTalon]

What springs and struts are those?

 

[silentsnow31802]

What springs and struts are those?

Koni yellows and ground control springs

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

As things get old subframes move and shift. Its the best option to always get camber bolts in any chassis. You will never rid of old cars that camber oddly. So you counter act it with self adjustment. Any McPherson shocks i always add camber bolts. Its the only way around things. Springs weaken on one side more than the other. Shocks also wear 1 side faster so can create a host of weird issues. Likely your chassis is perfectly fine! but the sub components are what shift and create the issues and you might not see them. Even steering racks can shift causing issues. Check subframe bolts and add camber bolts, once you done your checks you will be safe knowing its just age not bent parts ( unless you find some of course ) a kinked arm can be a problem, old rubber also deflects more etc etc, the list goes on and one for old cars

 

[silentsnow31802]

As things get old subframes move and shift. Its the best option to always get camber bolts in any chassis. You will never rid of old cars that camber oddly. So you counter act it with self adjustment. Any McPherson shocks i always add camber bolts. Its the only way around things. Springs weaken on one side more than the other. Shocks also wear 1 side faster so can create a host of weird issues. Likely your chassis is perfectly fine! but the sub components are what shift and create the issues and you might not see them. Even steering racks can shift causing issues. Check subframe bolts and add camber bolts, once you done your checks you will be safe knowing its just age not bent parts ( unless you find some of course ) a kinked arm can be a problem, old rubber also deflects more etc etc, the list goes on and one for old cars

I did add a camber bolt to that side as a temporary fix. Now that the car is drivable I have noticed the bolt does not take all the positive camber out so decided to revisit the issue.

I also believe the chassis is probably fine. It has to be either a bushing or a bent bolt maybe? The arm does no look damaged at all.

I'll take a couple subframe bolts out 1 by 1 and check for damage there. That's a good idea thank you.

I'm assuming a bushing may be toasted but I just cannot see it.

 

[TerminalTalon]

Shake down the entire suspension. Raise it up. Move the wheel side to side. Up and down. Is there play? Are the bushings good? How old are the struts? A bad shock or strut is usually a thud, thud, thud hitting a bump as they can’t compress or rebound correctly. Is the wheel centered in the wheel well? (caster). There’s a lot of things to check but without a lift or alignment rack it’s either changing parts or taking it to a legitimate shop.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Shake down the entire suspension. Raise it up. Move the wheel side to side. Up and down. Is there play? Are the bushings good? How old are the struts? A bad shock or strut is usually a thud, thud, thud hitting a bump as they can’t compress or rebound correctly. Is the wheel centered in the wheel well? (caster). There’s a lot of things to check but without a lift or alignment rack it’s either changing parts or taking it to a legitimate shop.

I will do this tomorrow. Ill get a pry bar behind some of the bushings and look for slop. I believe I did wiggle the tire and felt nothing loose but that doesnt mean its not shifting once weight is put on it. The shocks/springs are good. They are lower mileage koni yellows with lots of life left in them. The wheel is centered in the well.

I suppose worse case is there is a nice suspension shop in town that I can take it to. Last resort though.

 

[silentsnow31802]

I took the front right suspension apart and cannot find anything wrong. The wheel is tight and there is no movement. The bushing are tight and have basically no movement when pried on.
I have decided to just replace the lower arm and hope for the best.
Im trying to locate a Moog part but having a hard time finding the correct part number.

I believe this is the correct one but the picture does not look right and that worries me. Can anyone confirm?

Moog Chassis Parts RK620484 Moog R-Series Control Arms | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Moog R-Series Control Arms with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Control Arms at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[97egl]

You probably have but I didn't see it mentioned in the thread if you have checked the strut mounts?

That is the moog part number for a right control arm for 90-94 eclipse/talon/laser

 

[silentsnow31802]

You probably have but I didn't see it mentioned in the thread if you have checked the strut mounts?

That is the moog part number for a right control arm for 90-94 eclipse/talon/laser

Yea I've checked the mounts. The struts have been replaced also.

Thanks for confirming. I'll find one in stock somewhere and get it ordered.

 

[TerminalTalon]

Rockauto

 

[silentsnow31802]

Rockauto

They don't have Moog arms available sadly.

 

[TerminalTalon]

Anything available works for these 30 year old chassis’.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Anything available works for these 30 year old chassis’.

I hear that. I ordered one off ebay but theyre lagging on shipping. I fear its not actually in stock and they just haven't said anything yet.
If they fail to deliver ill go the rockauto route. Could always use another magnet for my garage refrigerator!