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Fresh rebuild won't go into gear

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Kingarex

10+ Year Contributor
95
0
Jul 3, 2012
Cheney, Washington
Everything worked great when torn down, resurfaced flywheel and brand new clutch. I went to drive it for the first time yesterday and it ground when trying to put it into reverse. I checked othergears and nothing seems to "line up". I bled the lines again and found no bubbles. I was able to half-assed get it into 3rd and it held fine when the car was pushed on. But it's as if the clutch isn't disengaging and the shifter isn't lined up. I'm not to familiar with transmissions, but it was great before I pulled and built the engine.
 
Everything worked great when torn down, resurfaced flywheel and brand new clutch. I went to drive it for the first time yesterday and it ground when trying to put it into reverse. I checked othergears and nothing seems to "line up". I bled the lines again and found no bubbles. I was able to half-assed get it into 3rd and it held fine when the car was pushed on. But it's as if the clutch isn't disengaging and the shifter isn't lined up. I'm not to familiar with transmissions, but it was great before I pulled and built the engine.

Well obviously the clutch isn't adjusted properly, Clutch Drag Kills Synchros! – Jacks Transmissions LLC
 
Do you have a shim behind your pivot ball? Even one washer could make all the difference (ask me how I know)
 
Without thinking I'm a total moron, please remember that I don't know transmissions. That being said, I don't know if it's shimmed. I'm wondering if the cases aren't tight enough. Because other than the clutch itself, everything is the same.
 
Improper step height on your flywheel.
 
To turbo98eclipse, why would I need to adjust the new clutch? It worked great before, do you readjust everytime you put a new clutch in? If so, I've been doing it wrong for years.....
 
I recently had this same issue after going through all this. It was the pedal adjustment. I thought I had it right but it wouldn't go in to gear except when the car was off. I swapped masters twice and slaves twice and used up 2 32oz bottles of brake fluid bleeding it. Almost giving up after two days I took a deep breath and went out again on the third day, this time messed with the pedal only since it had pressure. First start up and 10minutes in, it was fine.

It only takes a few minutes to adjust the pedal, a lot easier checking that first than dropping the trans again.
 
To turbo98eclipse, why would I need to adjust the new clutch? It worked great before, do you readjust everytime you put a new clutch in? If so, I've been doing it wrong for years.....

You said it was a new clutch, but you never specified if it was the same clutch, new type you were trying.. plus you resurfaced the flywheel, so that also gives you a different measurement.

But it def sounds like its out of adjustment somewhere. Does it engage and disengage in the same place as it did before? A simple adjustment should be all you need. Did you do research and make sure the fork is where is is supposed to be in the boot? The rod could also not be pushing far enough.
 
It's a new brand of clutch, same old flywheel with a fresh resurface, it "kinda" goes into 2nd when it's off. It just seems like the clutch is only coming halfway back. The pedal feels right. I did notice that I'm missing a retainer clip on the lever/line, but even when I held it in place by hand and had Justin push it in, it didn't change. I'll check the case bolts, then start adjusting.
 
It's a new brand of clutch, same old flywheel with a fresh resurface, it "kinda" goes into 2nd when it's off. It just seems like the clutch is only coming halfway back. The pedal feels right. I did notice that I'm missing a retainer clip on the lever/line, but even when I held it in place by hand and had Justin push it in, it didn't change. I'll check the case bolts, then start adjusting.

Have you physically checked to see if the fork moves when clutch is being pressed? Might have to tear it down if you can't even change gears by shift levers when car is on or off
 
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