1G French GSX problem

[bewoin]

First Hello all,
I'm French and I was trying to buy a 90 DSM Eclipse GSX, the car was imported in France many years ago, the car is aproximatly 86000 miles, with HKS boost controller & Turbo Timer, and had to be repaint.

There's a problem with the engine. It seems that all the rockers from the intake "flee off" on a high rpm downshifting, the timing belt could be a cause of the problem too .
I have seen on the site that the problem is known but I would like to know if the damage could be very important ?

I take a list of component I have to change but I can't open the engine before buy it to be sure of what it is damage or not.
I supposed that all the intake valves and rockers are dead, probably the pistons and the intake cam too.
A french DSM tuner told me that the rods are probably ok, and certainly the crank too but I let the rods in my list.

I calculate about 2800$ of parts to rebuild the engine without shipping cost and I was asking me if I would better buy a complete engine from US or JDM at max 2000$ but with the problem to buy an engine without seen it and risk to have an engine that don't fit in my car or with low compression or others problems.

In the first case, I have a Good upgrade engine, in the second, I can have a bad or a good one, so what is the good solution ?

So I would like to know your experience in a similar case of which parts broke first , and does the block or the head could be dead ? because I don't want to put more than 4500$ with the car .
I could have an EVO VIII turbo TD05 16G for my upgrade (if the one on the car isn't in a good shape) and I would like to know if it bolt on easily, and what I have to put with for a daily use reliability .

Thanks for the response, I hope you understand my bad English .

 

[VapedTalon]

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the rockers, so I'll leave that to someone else. In most cases the pistons are still fine after your timing slips, however it is hard to tell without looking inside the engine.

When you take apart the engine, you can make the decision then on what you have to replace. If the pistons are still fine then I would recomend getting some 264/264 cams instead of just replacing the intake side. Also I would swap out all of the valves not just the intake side. In your case with all the shipping and dealing with different places, it may be easier just to buy an aftermarket rebuilt head from somewhere.

The dicision between buying a complete jdm motor or rebuilding your own is all a matter of time. The jdm route is going to be the quickest, if you need the car on the road asap this would be the way to go. If you have the time however I'm sure that 90% of the board will agree that doing a rebuild is the way to go. It is a great learning experience and also takes out all of the unknowns that come with buying a jdm motor. It will also give you a chance to fully remove the balence shafts and belt.

In your case the most likely would be the head being toast. The Evo 16g is a great bolt on turbo, however you are going to need some supporting mods to run it. Key to these being bigger injectors and something to tune with.

I hope I answered most of your questions, good luck with the dsm.

 

[bewoin]

I mean by rockers the part between the lifter, the cam and the valve.

I probably made a complete rebuild but if I can find used part in France, I think I will take them.
Of course, I count in the worst case, 16 valves, cams even if I could have stock cam from an Eagle TSi or rectify mines, I even count the rods, the pistons and all the seals and nuts, belts, heads (not the crankshaft I will be very unlucky if it's damaged).
What is the gain with 264/264 cams in hp and where (low or high rev)?

Balance shaft eliminator don't give a real gain, just a more reliable engine, isn't-it?

I think there is a Walbro fuel pump or another kind, but I don't want to put High Boost, because the car will become my daily car . What injector size do you recommend me for this use and what is better SAFC or PDA Datalogging?

Do you know the difference between a 4G63 Galant N/T heads and the 1g 4G63T? do they have the same valves? Do they bolt on and fit with the DSM?

Sorry for the mass question, but there are no specialist of this car in France .
And thank you for your response .

 

[VapedTalon]

I knew what you ment by rockers I just wasen't sure what you ment by "flee".

As for the cams its for some more up top power. That more or less comes from my attitude of take it apart once and do it right. That and the fact that you will have a hard time finding used parts over there, and if you had to order new cams mide as well go for a little more power.

The balence shaft is more or less for not having to worry about it. As you know the 4g63t is an interference motor, thus the piston and the valve occupy the same space. What keeps them in sync so they don't mash like the ones on the gsx your looking at is the timing belt. It is not uncommon for the timing belt to be replace and leave the old balence belt in. Generally when a balence belt breaks it causes the timing belt to skip, and presto you need a new head. You can also save 7-9 pounds of rotational mass in the motor (someone chime in with how much it was I forget exactly), as well as increasing the oil pressure.

I'm not sure what the exact octane rating is on the fuel over there so it is kind of hard to say. Some people use 550's and those are fine as long as your not going big boost, others use 660's and use a SAFC or some other tuning device to control the fuel maps. If you use 550's you could run into fuel cut depending on the gas and what boost your running. You mide as well buy the 660's and not worry about the fuel cut, but make sure you get your SAFC at the same time. I say this because the stock the system cannot handle the larger injectors and will run pig rich. That will kill your fuel economy, and with the price of gas thats not a good idea .

A data logger does just that it allows you to see what your mixtures/voltage and what not are. So basicly you can see whats going on and easily transfer it to your computer and print it off. It doesn't give you the ability to really tune your engine.

I have no idea about the heads you will have to ask in the N/T section for real details. I would guess that there would be issues.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. My knowledge is a bit limited because I have only had my car for 2 months, but I'm sure a wiseman could pop in and answer.

 

[bewoin]

I knew what you ment by rockers I just wasen't sure what you ment by "flee".

I don't know how to said that exactly, they jumped, they aren't at their place .


Our octane indice is 95 or 98, and about 1.6$ per liter so that's why I don't want to put high boost, 220-230hp will be more than suffisant for begining .

 

[weith1111]

Ok, I'll step up. If you just want an easy route, that will be fairly inexpensive, get a JDM and drop it in. I've never done this, but there are reputable vendors, and plenty of folks who have gone this route. The motors come with a warranty or guarantee I believe, they aren't just junkyard motors, they are inspected and have to meet standards.

But all this talk about fuel pumps cams and injectors makes me think you are looking for more than just getting this thing running. If you do end up rebuilding, I would recommend the BS eliminator, there is no reason to have the extra cost and fear of another belt in there. 99% of shops that would build a motor for you would eliminate the BS.

Start here, it has a lot of info that will help you: http://dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/

I want to clarify some things: Fuel cut has nothing to do with fuel, it has to do with airflow. Fuel is "cut" when the ECU sees too much airflow. Also, I wouldn't recommend messing with cams, as they traditionally are designed to move the power band up, but there has been no discussion of a turbo upgrade, which needs to be taken into account. Having big cams and a stock turbo does little to improve things. Money could be better spent elsewhere. Additionally, a fuel pump is necessary to use larger injectors (also an AFC or something else to control the fuel), but the stock injectors can take you where you want to go for now.

And do get a logger, indispensible item.

 

[bewoin]

I've already take a look on the link below, but I don't know if with a 16G I can run with a stock boost pressure, or if it is obligatory to have mods .

However, I think I'd open the engine before choosing a rebuilt or a JDM import .

 

[weith1111]

With a 16g you will need a pump, injectors, and something to control the fuel.

 

[bewoin]

Ok, thank you all. but for now, I'll be waiting for the car, I'd hope the sellers would give it to me for a reasonable price.

 

[bewoin]

bad news, the seller don't want to lower the price under 1500€, about 2000$ .
So it's too expensive for me and what I have expected to do on , and I think it isn't worth it, what about you?
Note that the car is extremly rare in france, but even it's too expensive for a car which need a paint and an engine rebuild .

 

[TeamPlayers]

bad news, the seller don't want to lower the price under 1500€, about 2000$ .
So it's too expensive for me and what I have expected to do on , and I think it isn't worth it, what about you?
Note that the car is extremly rare in france, but even it's too expensive for a car which need a paint and an engine rebuild .

What part of France?

 

[coving21]

whats most important is that you have to like the car many dsmers buy a car real fast and even though they like it they end up spending a ton of money to get the car where they want it. If the car is really rare in france just imagine how cool it would be to have a slow boy or another vendors stroker motor put in and when you pull up to the light and some other frenchy revs his motor you peel off so fast the other guy's neck feels like it wants to snap. dam I should of bought awd!!!!!!! I'm starting to get myself excited>>>

 

[bewoin]

What part of France?

Haute-Savoie near Switzerland.

I need AWD, RWD is too funny for me and I don't want to break my 180SX, That's why I want to change and the DSM would be the car I need, but the seller don't wait money from it and I don't want to put more than my actual car because it's a 15 years old car, It cost nothing in France, it's neither collection.

 

[ITSME4G63]

Just come to him with 1000 euros, and tell him take it or leave it this is the money you have right now and cant give more

And if there is a motor problem, its just easier to go jdm, trust me, jdm motors are low mileage and run strong, shoot, you might even be lucky to receive one with a 16g on it, if you buy a jdm motor, make sure to shell out the extra 200$ or so ont he jdm trans to come with it.