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First time at track basically stock. I'm embarassed.

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jake98gst

15+ Year Contributor
433
0
Jul 17, 2003
St. Louis Area, Illinois
First time at the track last night with my 98 GST (A/T), and I would like to start out by appologizing to the entire DSM community. I am a terrible representation of what this car is capable of, and I hope that you can forgive me for installing a bad reputation for our cars that night.

Now, I thought I could pull off a low 15 - high 14 sec run with just intake and mbc at 13psi (stock 2g bov) and Falken ZE-512 tires. Here are the runs...

R/T... .122
60'... 2.770
330... 7.284
1/8... 10.907
mph... 68.59
1000... 14.001
1/4... 16.624
mph... 85.92

R/T... .638
60'... 2.589
330... 7.092
1/8... 10.714
mph... 68.74
1000... 13.813
1/4... 16.433
mph... 86.16

R/T... .015
60'... 2.684
330... 7.203
1/8... 10.923
mph... 67.13
1000... 14.089
1/4... 16.763
mph... 84.51

My ego is crushed. I'm praying to the almighty for a boost leak the size of Texas. The first run I manually shifted at 7000-7500 rpm. Then I just left it in drive the rest of the night. I power-breaked on the line with my foot to the floor to about 3000 rpm. What's the deal? Is it really possible that I suck at driving an A/T? Is my turbo shot? I'm thinking it's a boost leak since my O2's were about 1.00 to 1.02 at the beginning of the run and gradually dropping to .98-.96 according to my logs. Will a fixed boost leak really take 1.0-1.5 secs off my times? My friends tell me I just need more mods. I know I don't. There's something wrong. Help me out here.

Thanks,
Jake
 
well dont take anything i say as being serious or anything, since im not that experienced... yet :p But have you ever cleaned your intercooler? ive heard of a lot more power from the engine after, and my engine seems to pull harder too after i did mine ;) tho this probably isnt ur problem, but it might help?
 
Your 60 foot times suck. Really suck. Work on those, you should at least be able to get a 2.2, 2.1. Get those down and your times will really drop. Did you really expect to run that great of a time? Honestly these cars are not very fast stock and you basically are. Based on your traps you may have a boost leak but I think you are about right where you should be. I trapped 71 in the 1/8 when I was stock and you're not far behind that, I'll have to assume autos are a little slower through the traps than manuals. So basically get some more mods, learn to launch a lot better and go back. Everyone has to start somewhere.
 
I'm not assuming they're bullets or anything. I just thought they were at least mid-low 15 sec cars stock. Also, is it really that hard to launch an auto? Can you give me any more pointers?

They way I do it: Left foot to the floor on the break; right foot to the floor on the gas; let off the break when it's time and go. It's not like I was spinning the tires or anything. There is NO low end on this car. I can't even chirp them at all.

Jake
 
I ran a best of 14.9@95 bone stock...but I had like 8 runs at 15.4-15.8. These cars arent fast stock they are quick stock. With auto turbo myou should look for low 15s stock and just stick it in drive and go, you add alot more time auto shifting then we do as manuals. so if you brake boost and do the run in drive I think right there youll be well into the 15s. With tires and low boost on the t25 you should be able to pretty much mash the pedal at mid-high rpms in 1st. Cleaning your ic wont really help alot, but when I did mine I cleaned all my pipes and the stock uicp at the flat part was completely clogged so my ic must have been as well.

So try running your car like I said and clean your ic and ic pipes, and check for leaks. Youll get much better results I promise you.
Andrew
 
I have cleaned my IC and the Brode UIP goes on as soon as I can get a hold of a 1g bov. Also, my last two runs were just "put it in drive and go." Can anyone give me pointers on maybe what I'm doing wrong driving my A/T that would yield a time a full sec slower than what it should?

Thanks,
Jake
 
As a reference point, I ran a 15.06@92 with an A/T and the mods listed in my profile, and that was with a 2.26 60' time. So you don't sound so horribly off to me.
 
Talonman said:
Once you stage put it in neutral tach it up to 5-6000 rpm then slam it into 1st when the light turns green :thumb:


Yeah cause we all would love to hear him come back in a week with "Guys, I went to the track last night and my transmission fell out of the car!!!!"

Serioulsy though, don't do this. It's bad for the car and will not yeild good results so there's no point to putting your car through the stress. I would like to hear some other auto guys chime in here since I don't really have too much experience with them. I would assume they are slower than a similarly modded 5 speed without tranny work.
 
my friends g/f has an automatic 97 gst. He ran it for kicks at the track one day when I was running my car and it was doing high 15s ... I think 15.6 was it's best. Thats 100% bone stock and him not even brake boosting it off the line. A stock auto gst should run between 15.4 - 15.7.
 
1993eclipseGS said:
Did you brake boost?
Yes, I brake-torqued to about 3000 rpm.
Talonman said:
Once you stage put it in neutral tach it up to 5-6000 rpm then slam it into 1st when the light turns green
No.
1fast97gsx said:
my friends g/f has an automatic 97 gst. He ran it for kicks at the track one day when I was running my car and it was doing high 15s ... I think 15.6 was it's best. Thats 100% bone stock and him not even brake boosting it off the line. A stock auto gst should run between 15.4 - 15.7.
Exactly. I don't understand why my car is a full sec slower than what it should be. Hopefully a boost leak.

Another thing: My buddy told me that my trap times were good for 15s; it's just that I have absolutely no low end. Would a boost leak cause me to lose all low end power?

Thanks for the help. Keep the suggestions and diagnoses coming.

Thanks,
Jake
 
maintenence imo.....clean TB, intercooler, change plugs, wires, oil, tranny fluid, lower tire pressure, brake boost and go in drive, also (may have been overlooked) was your A/C on? make sure that's off or preferably put it on full blast heat (someone correct me if I'm wrong on that one) should be good to go after that
 
I've done all that except tranny fluid. And lowering tire pressure only helps with traction and I don't have any problems with traction right now...No low end.

Jake
 
I might have missed it somewhere in the thread, but did you say how much boost you had built when you left the line?
 
Talonman said:
Once you stage put it in neutral tach it up to 5-6000 rpm then slam it into 1st when the light turns green :thumb:

That would be a big no...when you are in neutral and go into drive and apply alot of pressure to parts in the tranny= not a good idea.
Andrew
 
ummmm


2g bov could be leaking at 13psi?? idk tho...umm its gotta be a boost leak somewhere...if u just put in drive and go then u should not be pulling a high 16..LOL. my non turbo ran a 16.2 with an intake, haha..look for leaks and hopefully find one or two and fix them and go back and R.E.P.R.E.S.E.N.T.
 
Judging by your 60' it tells us either A) you have severe traction problems or B) there is something wrong with your car. Brake boosting in an AT 2G should provide you with a way to do some pretty nice burnouts. Do Eclipses have traction control? I've never even seen an AT 2G that was turbo so I'm not sure. The launch is what is killing you.
 
I cannot do a burnout at all. I can't even chirp or anything. So of the two choices, my car has a huge problem.

I'm in the process of building a leak tester. The only thing I need now is a valve stem and a bike pump.

Thanks again,
Jake
 
Just a tip, the bike pump won't work. I've tried it before and I could never gey enough air into the pipes to hear anything coming out. Use an air compressor or a small air tank. Don't worry about harming anything since you'll blow an IC pipe before you put enough pressure in there to hurt anything. Just put the fitting on there for about 10 secs and then listen all around for leaks.
 
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