1G First startup advice

[Shiloh]

Hello all, new to the DSM world here and wanted a few pointers before I start my car up tomorrow.

Bought it and what I thought was a cracked mani and wiring issues turned out to be a cracked mani, wiring issues, ripped out head gasket and melted head between cylinder 3/4, all caused by a broken balancer belt.

I ordered in a 16g turbo, 3 inch downpipe, new head, gasket set, timing set, stronger balancer belt and finally have it back together. Last time it was started was about 3 weeks ago and it ran surprisingly well considering there was a 2 inch wide hole in the cylinder 4 head gasket .

Finishing up wiring tonight and planning on starting tomorrow. Any advice or things to check before hand? Compression was good on cylinder 1 and 2 with the oblonged head gasket even.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Darksurfr]

The only thing I would suggest is to pull the connection to the injectors and or pull the spark plugs and crank it a bit to allow oil to coat everything before you start it. I don't know how dry the engine is after only 3 weeks but after pulling the head and having work done I would guess it is pretty dry up top.

 

[curt-s]

If an engine was dry after 3 weeks, every time we went on vacation or stored a car, you'd have to "prime" it by doing that. Nevertheless you could, but it won't bring significant oil (if any) to the head because it's just not rotating fast enough to provide real good amount of suction in the oil pickup to overcome pumping losses and backpressure throughout the motor.
If it makes you feel all warm and cuddly, you could just pull the MPI fuse and remove the spark plugs (so that you're not compressing air in the cylinders and it can crank faster).

 

[Shiloh]

I put oil on cam journals and used my oil still oil soaked lifters and rocker arms. I lubed it up pretty well. Startup has been delayed till tomorrow. I believe rectifier in alternator broke and was grounding to case. the stud started smoking and the alternator fuse that's bolted down blows out. Won't let the starter fully engage. Dropped it off to get fixed for a quoted 28 bucks. Said it won't be till tomorrow morning so :/.

 

[Shiloh]

I just finished rebuilding my top end after a head gasket blowing out, now I'm having some issues. I drove it around in a big circle, gave it about 5 psi and I lose my alternator belt, my temp starts to rise but my water pump still is spinning. I get home and pull my valve cover cap to see a shit load of steam pouring out. This part is confusing since it is also about 28 degrees outside and with wind feels like 15. Boiling coolant in my over flow tank, and a lot of steam from it as well which could be contributed to temp outside also I guess.

Rundown on what I did-
New head
Gasket set
Timing set with water pump
16g turbo

Surfaces were cleaned and looked flat although I didn't use an mls, just an organic hg. It's too cold to continue tonight so I wanted some secondary advice. I did run the coolant system a little different than stock. The line closest to the radiator runs to the coolant pipe closest to water pump and the other runs to throttle body. Is this mostly correct? I'm praying the oil is a bad cap and the pressure is from not bleeding it out before driving. Never got hot hot but did get past the middle of the gauge.

 

[OGDSM1989]

A couple things come to mind ... First fill out profile and list of upgrades ,Then is to make sure you have all the air out of the system and to run the lines back to factory, Did you use premix anti-freeze?
Do not keep driving until this is figured out ... heat is not our friend?

 

[Shiloh]

I actually wanted to startup first just using water as I'm a bit over budget on this thing. I've calmed down and believe the temp issue is an air pocket. I've had this happen and plus I replaced with a bare head, and new water pump. As per the routing, I looked and I did route it closely to stock. Only things changed were the turbo coolant lines, but believe they are fine.

But there is another thing, as I have oil running from pretty much every port on the turbo. The drain and return banjo bolts on the turbo itself.

 

[DBT spyder]

best thing to do, start by making sure everything is like it was stock. after its all working correctly then you can modify things if you want. but you need to know everything works right to begin with, that way you know if your modifications actually helped or made it worse. i would try putting the turbo coolant lines the way they're supposed to be and try it again.

 

[Shiloh]

So I've got my 1g Talon TSi up and running finally. Running great with plenty of power, etc.. Only issue I'm running across is the idle. I've deleted the FIAV, ISC, and the EGR. I've checked the TPS and its properly adjusted. I have the throttle stop switch (one wire switch on the throttle body) unplugged and adjusted correctly. Only thing I use to adjust my idle is the BISS.

Things happening are, my idle will increase to 1500 till I tap it, then it drops to around 900. But as I continue to drive it the overall idle increases to where I have to use the BISS to turn it down again. From what I'm reading the throttle cable is most likely culprit, but what else could it be at this point?

 

[enriquez2000]

If you tighten the throttle cable too much it will raise your idle as the car gets hot. Happened to me last summer

 

[dsmrestorator]

The above post makes sense. Try loosening the cable to see if idles more consistently.

 

[enriquez2000]

Howd it turn out? Its a s easy as lossening the 2 -12mm bolts and adding a hair of slack.

 

[Shiloh]

Sorry I never got around to replying. Definitely not due to my throttle cable at this point. I just recently rebuilt the entire motor, new clutch, rebuilt the wiring harness as well. i went through more adjustments yesterday so now timing is set, idle is actually holding at 1000 thus far with new throttle body gaskets and injector o rings. But it still has a miss. It's more so a rough idle now that gets worse when the fan kicks on. I believe it's vacuum leaks at this point but still have to look further.

Thank you for your help, and if anyone has anymore Input it's greatly appreciated.

 

[coloradotuner]

I had the same problem after driving around for a while and the car warming up at stop lights The Car would "rev it self up" to about 1500. I took apart the throttle body and replaced the throttle body Shaft Seals, BISS, New Gaskets, and PCV, And the idle problem went away completly.

Here is a good source to help you http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html

 

[Shiloh]

See that's basically what mine is doing now. Rough idle that sounds like it's cammed but on the way to work this morning it was more consistent around 1000. Then it would rise up to about 1200-1400 randomly. I'd tap the gas and it goes back to 900-1000, smoothish, but cammed sounding still. If it's any consolation I have the 6 puck act 2600 sprung and I can take off smoothly. Just rough idle.

Also, biss o ring was good and new. Entire engine has new gaskets and vacuum lines with all emissions gone. Only the throttle body shaft seals at this point could be a culprit.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

If you haven't done the throttle body shafts yet that could definitely cause your symptoms. You can use a boost leak tester to check for leaks at the throttle body shaft too BTW.

 

[Shiloh]

Yea I have a boost leak tester, just been so busy chasing every other bug lately. Blew all my coolant out today. yesterday was my oil cooler . I'll get the shaft seals ordered anyways just to verify a good throttle body altogether.

 

[Shiloh]

Well I'm not for sure but I believe I just fixed the whole issue with the popping, rough idle and everything all together. Throttle cable is def. stretched as its not even going 100% WOT. But my 02 sensor was universal and I didn't wire it in properly I guess. I redid it and wala, CEL is gone. I believed it was on due to emissions .