First Post, couple Q's, and plans

[turbo2086]

Hey all, I'm the new kid on the block. I have a 92 Plymouth Laser RS AWD Turbo 5sp. 94k miles. So has some life left, and turbo has no shaft play at all! I have had it for about a month. First turbo car I own completely. I love this site, lots of information. My power goal will be the STAGE I. I just want enough to hang with the SRT-4's from a 3rd gear roll.

Currently I removed the BCS restrictor, added a K&N, and use Iridium plugs. I'm getting ready to purchase a boost gauge (any suggestions?), rewire kit for the fuel pump, and a MBC. My factory boost gauge needle gets close to 14, so I'm probably doing around 12psi. I would like to put it at 15. How much spring tension should I be looking for when adjusting the MBC? Also if I mount the MBC in the cabin, there will probably be a lot of turbo lag? I read somewhere that I guy used multiple (3) BCS's to control the boost in 5lb increments to 15psi. I may do that.

While I'm out purchasing a boost gauge, I decided to get an air/fuel ratio gauge. Where is a good spot to tap the Boost Gauge? Do you guys recommend any other gauges I need(fuel pres, etc)? Cause I will probably get a dual, or triple A pillar pod.

Some things that I would like to purchase down the road: DSM LINK, GM MAF only cause I here its better to have the readings after the intercooler. GSX or similar rims. The whole exhaust system with OEM style muffler, and tubular headers. Hard intercooler piping to the throttle body which should be removing that awfully small TB elbow. I would like to lower the car an inch, and repaint it.

Lastly, I follow the Tech Guide religously. I have no emissions here, but was concerned on engine performance by removing all those vacumm lines, and blocking egr. Noticable difference? Is it worth it? I think this is all I have to say. Later

 

[turbo2086]

Forgot to say I was also thinking about doing that water/alcohol injection to help cool the air. Anyone done this before?

 

[tommy260]

vfaq.com is a great site for quick answers. egr blockoff is not a performance mod, it just allows cleaner air to enter the tb, definately worth it. I like greddy for most performance parts, autometer make good gauges and you'll probably want boost, air/fuel, and egt. Keep your vac lines as short as possible for optimal readings. Thats pretty much it. Any other q's feel free to pm me. I just noticed you're i eau claire. I have done all the mods you're interested in doing so if you ever need any help give me a holler and I would be glad to help a fellow dsmer out.
Good Luck!

 

[snowborder714]

First of all, get rid of the iridium plugs and get some NGK BPR6ES copper plugs. They're about $2 each and are the ones that work best with our cars.

As far as boost gauge suggestions, I always recommend Autometer. A mechanical boost gauge will do just fine. Just put an NPT hose barb on the back so you can run a regular vacuum line (instead of the nylon one that comes with the gauge as they're prone to breaking easily). MAPerformance is running a sale on Prosport gauges (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...ance-starting-just-37-99-a.html#post151420062) so that could be another option. Not as proved as Autometer, but definitely cheaper. Make sure to tap the source for the boost gauge into your FPR vacuum line.

I would recommend building your own MBC (http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html) and just keeping it in the engine bay. You should have as little vacuum line as possible. So mount it up near your fans instead of back near the battery type of thing. Is there really a need to mount it in the cabin? You probably won't touch it at all. Who really wants to be adjusting boost on the fly with an MBC? You'll just set it at max and roll with it. And check out the link for the type of spring used. You really don't need to worry too much about tension as the way it's designed will help out with that. And you only need to run one. Make sure you have a boost source for it - NOT teeing into the BOV line.

I would recommend saving and getting a wideband O2 sensor/gauge instead of a narrowband air/fuel gauge. The wideband will aid you once you start tuning where as the narrowband will just give you a pretty light show and tell you if you're running either rich or lean.

Check out this thread to see what gauges you should get:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...5-what-gauges-should-i-get-merged-12-6-a.html

Removing emissions stuff won't really hurt performance other than maybe having a bit of trouble doing cold starts (if you block off/bypass FIAV). Defiant stands behind not blocking off the EGR (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/134168-egr-removal.html#post1088706) but I say if you're in there removing all the emissions, why not? The only thing you'll really notice is a cleaner, less cluttered engine bay Just make sure to leave all the solenoids plugged in and just remove the vacuum lines. This way you don't throw any CEL's.

And there's plenty of people here running a water/meth kit. Just do a search and you'll find a bunch of threads about it. Devilsown (a water/meth vendor on this site) would probably be glad to answer any specific questions you may have as well.

 

[blackbetty]

waaaiiiittt... 2005?

 

[snowborder714]

waaaiiiittt... 2005?

Haha, wow. I definitely didn't notice that. Good catch (and my bad for even posting ).

Some people just seem to dig up some really old threads sometime.

 

[dsmsucks]

The thread is almost 3 years old

 

[mach4g63t]

Guess he repainted the car and got something besides those GSX rims.

 

[tommy260]

When I was viewing "today's posts" last nite this question was up there with 0 responses, so I thought id help a brotha out. Too bad I didn't check the date until after I posted. As to why it showed up as a recent post, you've got me.
My bad on that one ladies and gentlemen.