Finished Compression Test

[jibberishballr]

I just finished my compression test and my boost leak test. No Boost Leaks. My compression test showed 173-178 across all 4 cylinders which im assuming is good. Heres my problem. My car burns/leaks oil and i eat up quarsts of oil within weeks.

So heres what i know for sure:
-NO Shaft Play
-My car eats oil like crazy. Were talking a few quarts in weeks.
-I cant see any oil leaking anywhere (none in engine bay and none on ground)
-My friend said when i take off (accelerate hard he sees smoke)
-I dont see smoke at any time so it cant be that big.
-My friend couldnt tell what color it was but thought it was grayish (the smoke)
-The oil gets really dark...black black
-My car seems to burn more oil when i run it harder
-Spark Plugs are fine
-Compression is good
-Didnt need to do a wet test because all cylinders were fine

Where do i go now?

 

[dragrush]

Do a leak down test, it will determine if you have a leak in rings, valve seals, headgasket, or pcv

 

[jibberishballr]

Do a leak down test, it will determine if you have a leak in rings, valve seals, headgasket, or pcv

Can i do that myself...i mean the compression and boost leak test was easy but how do i do a leak down test?

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Probably easiest to take it to a shop, but...

http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/leakdown.htm

 

[jibberishballr]

Probably easiest to take it to a shop, but...

http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/leakdown.htm

But it says this tests for low compression....and i already did the compression and had 173-176ish across all 4 cylinders. So do i need to take this test if I have good compression scores?

 

[Dark_Horse]

Unless you know someone with a leakdown tester, or have a spare $80-$100 laying around to buy one, you can't do the leakdown test yourself. You may (a big may) be able to rent one from someplace like Checker, Advanced Auto or AutoZone. You'll also need a compressor of course.

Usually you'd do a leakdown test to figure out why you have low compression, but in your case, with burning that much oil...I'd do one.

 

[MonkRX]

About the On/Off Ignition Cycling -
It only works on the 2G N/T's with the 420A's.
Read this quote carefully (Underlined):

AHA! I can def help here. I used to remanufacture chrysler ecu's and tcm's. if you dont have a logger:

cycle ignition on off on off on without turning the motor.

Mitsu's ECU doesn't blink for us . So this method doesn't work for pulling the codes.
So... (if you have a 1G/2G 4G6X) Engine we're on our own here

 

[jibberishballr]

About the On/Off Ignition Cycling -
It only works on the 2G N/T's with the 420A's.
Read this quote carefully (Underlined):

Mitsu's ECU doesn't blink for us . So this method doesn't work for pulling the codes.
So... (if you have a 1G/2G 4G6X) Engine we're on our own here

crap

 

[jibberishballr]

Well I am bamboozled. I am no longer burning oil! I just dont get it. I havent burnt any oil in the last 150 miles, not a drop! My friends say when i take off they still see smoke though. Also i forgot to mention that when in neutral and i rev it there is no smoke. So i still need to check the Valve Stem Seals but its not burning or losing oil anymore.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Mitsu's ECU doesn't blink for us . So this method doesn't work for pulling the codes.
So... (if you have a 1G/2G 4G6X) Engine we're on our own here

The OBD1 4g63's (or mine anyway) will give the same type of code via the diagnostic post. All you need is a volt meter.

Doesn't help the original poster, but I just thought I should clarify.