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Finished Compression Test

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jibberishballr

15+ Year Contributor
475
3
Aug 23, 2005
Chico, California
I just finished my compression test and my boost leak test. No Boost Leaks. My compression test showed 173-178 across all 4 cylinders which im assuming is good. Heres my problem. My car burns/leaks oil and i eat up quarsts of oil within weeks.

So heres what i know for sure:
-NO Shaft Play
-My car eats oil like crazy. Were talking a few quarts in weeks.
-I cant see any oil leaking anywhere (none in engine bay and none on ground)
-My friend said when i take off (accelerate hard he sees smoke)
-I dont see smoke at any time so it cant be that big.
-My friend couldnt tell what color it was but thought it was grayish (the smoke)
-The oil gets really dark...black black
-My car seems to burn more oil when i run it harder
-Spark Plugs are fine
-Compression is good
-Didnt need to do a wet test because all cylinders were fine

Where do i go now?
 
Chaddycakes21 said:
Sounds like magic. IDK man thats weird. Goodluck.


LOL....I'm running out of ideas...i still have to check the lower intercooler piping for oil and the return line from the turbo to the oil pan...thats all i can think of. Any other ideas?
 
jibberishballr said:
PS ive heard of you oldman and your knowledge :cool:
Nothing but rumors. :)

Would this cause me to be losing/burning so much oil?
No but you shouldn't assume that losing oil and gray smoke are related, it's important that you're sure the smoke is grayish and not blueish, it doesn't sound like you're too sure. Couple of questions for you.

1. BOV vented? Profile updated?

2. How are your pcv valve and breather routed? Have you experienced excessive crankcase pressure like the dipstick popping out?

3. You said you had no leaks, what was the result of the boost leak test?
 
My BOV is recirculated...My profile is up to date
PCV/Breather is how i got it stock, and never experienced cranksahft pressure
Boost leak test results came out flawless. Zero Leaks. (and i did put bubbles on all leaky areas :thumb: )
 
well, your compression readings are dead on with mine, and I ran 3 tests today. how many miles on the motor? the smoke sounds similar to a prob i was having when i found my t25 was goin out. would only smoke under acceleration. when i pulled the piping found it to be coated in oil from the turbo to the throttle body. this is almost exactly what i had before i pulled the piping and saw all the oil everywhere due the the 100k mile t25 dying. I was not using quite that much oil though, maybe a quart a week, driving 50 miles a day. here is a test. put a piece of cardboard or something behind your car, give her a rev and check for residue. I actually had the oil sticking to the back of my car, it was kind of a give away. And there were no leaks anywhere, it was all going out the exhaust.:dsm:
 
gsxbri said:
well, your compression readings are dead on with mine, and I ran 3 tests today. how many miles on the motor? the smoke sounds similar to a prob i was having when i found my t25 was goin out. would only smoke under acceleration. when i pulled the piping found it to be coated in oil from the turbo to the throttle body. this is almost exactly what i had before i pulled the piping and saw all the oil everywhere due the the 100k mile t25 dying. I was not using quite that much oil though, maybe a quart a week, driving 50 miles a day. here is a test. put a piece of cardboard or something behind your car, give her a rev and check for residue. I actually had the oil sticking to the back of my car, it was kind of a give away. And there were no leaks anywhere, it was all going out the exhaust.:dsm:

Ive got 80k miles on mine. Its not my turbo...i have Zero shaft play and no oil around it.

crunchymilk said:
valve seals?


Im checking that tomorrow morning




NOW i have another problem. After doing the compression tests i went to rent a movie and found that my check engine light was on. I checked and readjusted everything and the check engine light stays on. I cant figure out what it is.
 
AHA! I can def help here. I used to remanufacture chrysler ecu's and tcm's. if you dont have a logger:

cycle ignition on off on off on without turning the motor.

your cel will blink to verify it is working. then start counting blinks. there will be long and short flashes. short pause means digit count, long pause means new number. example.

flash-flash----flash-flash-flash
code 23

once you get your code #'s cross ref an obd2 dtc guide.
code 55 means end of codes :):dsm:
 
gsxbri said:
AHA! I can def help here. I used to remanufacture chrysler ecu's and tcm's. if you dont have a logger:

cycle ignition on off on off on without turning the motor.

your cel will blink to verify it is working. then start counting blinks. there will be long and short flashes. short pause means digit count, long pause means new number. example.

flash-flash----flash-flash-flash
code 23

once you get your code #'s cross ref an obd2 dtc guide.
code 55 means end of codes :):dsm:

So i wait for 5 long ones then short ones and it will be fixed?

If not does anyone know the code im looking for?
 
just code 55 will be:
flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-----flash-flash-flash-flash-flash

if you have alot of codes you may have to do alot of counting.
i use a piece of paper and jot hash marks, then go back and add em up
then you got your code #'s

It wont fix anything, just tells you the stored DTC's, and you can't clear them this way either, you need a logger to clear, or leave the battery disconnected for like 10 minutes. Bye-Bye radio presets :p
 
gsxbri said:
just code 55 will be:
flash-flash-flash-flash-flash-----flash-flash-flash-flash-flash

if you have alot of codes you may have to do alot of counting.
i use a piece of paper and jot hash marks, then go back and add em up
then you got your code #'s

It wont fix anything, just tells you the stored DTC's, and you can't clear them this way either, you need a logger to clear, or leave the battery disconnected for like 10 minutes. Bye-Bye radio presets :p

Well its not working for me, i mean by check engine light is either on or off, no blinking when i cycle the ignition on and off....im gonna just disconnect the battery and hope that works. Thanks though.
 
:dsm: No prob. The ignition cycle read can be tricky when you are trying to learn it. Wish I was there to show ya ### it is easy once you see it. The battery disconnect will clear the code, but if there is a persistant problem the CEL will come back on and you still won't know the code of the problem. Also, after disconnecting the battery you will get a code 15, battery disconnect. I don't believe it's an active code so it won't light the CEL, but when you actually get to read the codes it will be there. Just some extra FYI :thumb:

also the cycle has to be 3 ons and 2 offs, you leave it go at the 3rd on.
ON OFF ON OFF ON and leave it on, don't turn it off, after the last ON the CEL will start blinkin.
Just in case you were goin off after the last on ;-)
 
LOL, so, never worked at the Zone :p Flight Systems Inc. We did ecus/tcms for chrysler, ford, gm, saab, and fork lift controllers. I like that, GET IN THE ZONE! ROFL

I'm still learning the mechanical end of this stuff, but give me a DVM and some schematics and i'm deadly :cool:

EDIT: AHA! I though oldman was pokin fun at me :p didnt realize you meant for a freebie scan. My bad, glad I took it well :p
 
Did you reset the ECU after doing the compression test? I.e. it throughs the code that the crank angle sensor is not reading rotation and through a CEL. Disconnect the negative terminal, wait a minute, reconnect. If you still have a CEL... then go to autozone and get it read.
 
it does sound like valve seals if you honestly are not getting oil on the ground... during your boost leak test did you have the crank in the correct position?
 
I'll put down 5 bucks that says your CEL was related to you messing around with your intake/maf/boost leak test/compression test. It's harmless and so long as everything is put back together properly it'll go away and not be seen again. I'm gonna guess it's complaining about barometic pressure or something along those lines.

As for your mysterious oil problem, I'm of no help.
Good luck.
 
Well it must be the valve stem seals...ill check tomorrow.....if not i have no idea why its losing oil...did i overlook anything?
 
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