Few problems with my newest Dsm. Need advice.

[95DsManiac]

Hey everyone,

Some of you know me and know about the 1995 mitsubishi eclipse gsT full out drag car I am currently building. However, I, probably like many others, miss driving the car on the streets. So I found a 1990 plymouth laser fwd with 086457 or something close to that for 1650 on craigslist. The car was two and a half hours away from me and I called and spoke with the guy or should I say child for a while. He said it runs good, is bone stock besides cams and the body is strait. New clutch axles, blah blah blah. Not registered and has no cat. Comes with extra parts, heads, powder coated valve cover, full apexi exhaust etc etc. Long story short I got it for 1400 and drove it home.

On the way I find out the drivers light don't go down. The battery is in the trunk not strapped down, there's no headliner, seat doesn't adjust, small grind in second after car warms up, feels week in the upper rpm, rattling noise from front drivers side, among many other things.

I get the cat, weld it on, and the place said it's the wrong one. I go to a muffler shop and spend the 300 to get a new cat and welded on. Changed the exhaust manifold gasket because it had a horrible leak due to two bolts broken. Was able to get one out but not the other. Will has a leak and will be addressed soon. I fixed the very annoying idle surge and now she idles perfect at 1100. I also noticed I have a lot of oil leaks I will need to address and the car came with a aftermarket radiator and fan. I finally got the car to pass smog today and now I am ready to get to fixing her up for this years drag season along with my other gsT.

So far the car came with web 546/547, prosport boost gauge, greddy turbo timer, aftermarket radiator and fan, 3" downpipe, and ported 2g manifold tapped for egt.

Extra parts are 1gb eclipse conversion, alternator, starter, arp head studs, head, 1gb intake manifold, prothane driver mount, awd apexi exhaust??, EPROM ecu socketed with flashed chip, 1gb throttle body, powder coated valve cover and few other things.

I've gotten so far 1gb talon read lines and wing, catco cat, ordered v3 full today, and have everything to swap over my hx40 set up besides a fuel pump and wideband.

Now before I do this I am trying to address a few issues I see fit to be addressed, the reason for this thread. I know I'm blabbering but stay with me.

Issue 1. The car seems very week in the upper rpm. I was thinking maybe the springs are week and I am experiencing valve float of some kind??

Issue 2. When I first start the car and drive it, it doesn't grind in second. It only starts to grind and continues to grind about 10-15 minutes after driving. It won't grind if I shift very slowly under 2500 rpm. What could be causing this? Low fluid, wrong fluid, bad synchros??

Issue 3. When driving the car hits 8 psi and when I shift I don't hear my BOV releasing the air. I've never owned a 1g, but shouldn't I hear it release the air? I don't care about the sound I just care if it's operating correctly. I checked it and I can push it in, but I can't hear it while driving. I am ready -20ing/vac so was what would cause it not to open??

Issue 4. When driving the car is really shaky. It doesn't have aftermarket mounts installed. When on the freeway I can hear a shaking/rattling noise coming from the front drivers side. And when going over a speed bump it kind of feels like everything in the front drivers area is moving around. Could this be a bad shock? What should I be checking or looking at here?

Issue 5. When driving yesterday I turned into the restaurant me and my wife were going to eat out at and I hear and a loud pinging noise. I let go of the steering wheel and the car is shaking really really bad. I know that what I heard was one of my lug nuts flying off the car. I park and find it down the street. Half of the stud is still connected to it. Dam thing broke. I check the other four and they are all lose enough to tighten by hand. What the heck would cause this, someone messing with the car or what. Also, I never dealt with this part of any of my dsm's, so do I replace the entire hub, or do I just somehow replace the one broken stud??

I have more issues but this thread is super long. I'm ending it here. I'm sorry it is too much, and I kind of know what needs to be done, but I always check with my Dsm family for reassurance. Please let me know what you would do and what I need to do. I don't half axx do things and I don't care if I have to buy stuff.

God bless you all,

Anthony B.

 

[lasershark]

Issue 1. The car seems very week in the upper rpm. I was thinking maybe the springs are week and I am experiencing valve float of some kind??

Issue 2. When I first start the car and drive it, it doesn't grind in second. It only starts to grind and continues to grind about 10-15 minutes after driving. It won't grind if I shift very slowly under 2500 rpm. What could be causing this? Low fluid, wrong fluid, bad synchros??

Issue 3. When driving the car hits 8 psi and when I shift I don't hear my BOV releasing the air. I've never owned a 1g, but shouldn't I hear it release the air? I don't care about the sound I just care if it's operating correctly. I checked it and I can push it in, but I can't hear it while driving. I am ready -20ing/vac so was what would cause it not to open??

Issue 4. When driving the car is really shaky. It doesn't have aftermarket mounts installed. When on the freeway I can hear a shaking/rattling noise coming from the front drivers side. And when going over a speed bump it kind of feels like everything in the front drivers area is moving around. Could this be a bad shock? What should I be checking or looking at here?

Issue 5. When driving yesterday. I know that what I heard was one of my lug nuts flying off the car. I check the other four and they are all lose enough to tighten by hand. What the heck would cause this, someone messing with the car or what. Also, I just somehow replace the one broken stud??

Anthony B.

Issue 1 check for boost leaks
Issue 2 My 90 laser had the same problem, changed the fluid no help, might be the syncros, you can check to see if your clutch is dragging/adjusted properly
Issue 4 most likely caused by issue 5--really shaky--and/or unbalanced tires
issue 5 you can just replace the broken stud

 

[Dsmkauai]

Let's see have you done a boost leak test yet? Sound like you have a bad wheel bearing or ball joint or both. I would get a friend to help you shake down the front end and figure out what's loose. A wheel bearing being that bad could possible shake the lugs loose but most likely not. Most likely someone didn't properly torque the wheels down, so I would check all of then before they fall off on ya. Could also be a bad tire or out of balance tire. The 1g bov's do make a good sound so you should be hearing something. Is the vac line hooked up properly no rips or t'd into a bunch of other things? If its recirculated like it should be might not be as loud. Also if you have the stock rubber turbo intake than its probably quiet compared to having a metal intake. Maybe try shifting quicker and alittle more boost and see if it pops the bov quick and makes some noise I don't know . Sounds like you need to make a list of Pm's and go over the car pretty good! As far as the trans shifting sounds like the last owner didn't know how to shift very well and killed the syncros in 2nd. You may be able to bring it back with a fluid change try some Mitsu diaqueen. Could just be the fluids super old and thins out once heated up alittle, so a fluid change would probably be wise and probably needs it anyway. Good luck bro your turning into a DSM horder like me hahaha!

 

[TX D22A]

I'm with Dsmkauai on the PM list, it sounds like the car has some issues that need ironed out.

I don't hear the BOV on wastegate pressure either, I can sort of hear it if I'm near a building wall and releasing 16 psi. As long as it's operating properly and holding boost, I wouldn't worry about it. DEFINITELY do a boost leak test, that can solve a whole host of issues just by fixing those leaks.

As far as the grind into second after the car warms up, mine does this as well, almost exactly as you described. My car is currently running Syncromesh, and I need to change it to MT90 and see if that helps, but I can say for certain that I noticed MUCH less grinding after I put my prothane inserts in, as all my motor mounts were shot.

You can also try adjusting the clutch and the cables, and make sure the bushings on the shift cables aren't rotted out and too loose. Fixing those two issues also cleared up some of the grind for me.

 

[Lostdrizzle]

On my newest 2g the motor mounts are soft and the engine will move more when the mounts get hot. It sometimes gives the appearance of 4th grinding when it pulls on my shift cables, but if i shift it a bit more firm it doesn't grind at all. Maybe related to you maybe not? I had bought an old mark 3 supra and someone "replaced" the rear passenger wheel studs. Suddenly, wobble wobble, snap.. all 5 broke while driving about 30. Scared the hell outta me. The 2g i just bought was 100 % stock, I cant hear the BOV. But a 1g may be different.