kxc36g
15+ Year Contributor
- 41
- 0
- Jul 28, 2004
-
Dallas,
Texas
One of the lines from the 90 style front cover to the OEM 90 external oil cooler was leaking and after doing a little research I found out that I could build new lines cheaper than purchasing stock lines from a dealer. There are already several good threads and VFAQs on this topic, so I will just add a few things that the other threads did not answer and post a question regarding my new setup.
I used twist lock hose and push on AN fittings ordered from Jegs. (200 PSI/250MAX)
You will need pipe thread to AN fitting adapters. If you are using the stock 90 external cooler (as opposed to an aftermarket one that already has AN fittings on it) you will need four adapters. Yes, Jegs and Summitt had them on backorder (about a week). I chose 8AN size although others have posted that anything less than 10AN is a restriction. No matter what, it will be an improvement. One person said to purchase O ringdwashers from the dealer to seal the Pipe threads. These did not fit over my AN to pipe adapter. I used teflon tape instead.
My stock cooler was mounted in the middle of the frame, behind my large FMIC, and with the ports both facing down (this will trap air and hurt efficiency) The twist lock fittings were very easy to install. Lube them with oil, twist on over the 2 ridges by hand, place the fitting in a vice with a towel to protect the finish, and twist/drive the hose to the end of the fitting. The red caps are for aesthetics-- You take a pair of pliers and open up the slit down the middle while pushing. More detailed instructions can be found at the manufacturers website. Don't forget to wash any crud out of your new lines before installing.
I wound up moving the oil cooler to the driver side air inlet (my laser has three) I don't have a bumper so I removed my bumper support and used one of the nut/stud combos to anchor the cooler. I mounted the cooler with both ports facing 'up' using only one of the holes to mount the cooler. This was the only way to mount the cooler in a correct position without making custom brackets.
Next I discovered that the cooler was interfering with the bumper cover. I took a razor blade an began trimming the inside of the bumper--much like a FMIC install. After a lot of hacking, I was able to fit the bumper cover over the cooler without too much tension on the wheel-well bumper bolts. However, the cooler is slightly touching the bumper cover.
Thats it: no leaks, sharp looking,much more functional (the shorter lines, larger hose, and correctly positioned stock cooler have increased my oil pressure idling and cruising) and much more reliable than stock.
My only worries are the single mounting point and the fact that the cooler is slightly touching my bumper cover. I cranked the very wide, very sturdy looking bumper support anchor nut very tight. Also, the fact that the cooler is touching the bumper cover helps to support the opposite side. Will this cause problems? I.E. melting the bumper cover, springing leaks due to additional tension.
Hope this helps, and thanks in advance for any comments on my install and questions.
Chris
I used twist lock hose and push on AN fittings ordered from Jegs. (200 PSI/250MAX)
You will need pipe thread to AN fitting adapters. If you are using the stock 90 external cooler (as opposed to an aftermarket one that already has AN fittings on it) you will need four adapters. Yes, Jegs and Summitt had them on backorder (about a week). I chose 8AN size although others have posted that anything less than 10AN is a restriction. No matter what, it will be an improvement. One person said to purchase O ringdwashers from the dealer to seal the Pipe threads. These did not fit over my AN to pipe adapter. I used teflon tape instead.
My stock cooler was mounted in the middle of the frame, behind my large FMIC, and with the ports both facing down (this will trap air and hurt efficiency) The twist lock fittings were very easy to install. Lube them with oil, twist on over the 2 ridges by hand, place the fitting in a vice with a towel to protect the finish, and twist/drive the hose to the end of the fitting. The red caps are for aesthetics-- You take a pair of pliers and open up the slit down the middle while pushing. More detailed instructions can be found at the manufacturers website. Don't forget to wash any crud out of your new lines before installing.
I wound up moving the oil cooler to the driver side air inlet (my laser has three) I don't have a bumper so I removed my bumper support and used one of the nut/stud combos to anchor the cooler. I mounted the cooler with both ports facing 'up' using only one of the holes to mount the cooler. This was the only way to mount the cooler in a correct position without making custom brackets.
Next I discovered that the cooler was interfering with the bumper cover. I took a razor blade an began trimming the inside of the bumper--much like a FMIC install. After a lot of hacking, I was able to fit the bumper cover over the cooler without too much tension on the wheel-well bumper bolts. However, the cooler is slightly touching the bumper cover.
Thats it: no leaks, sharp looking,much more functional (the shorter lines, larger hose, and correctly positioned stock cooler have increased my oil pressure idling and cruising) and much more reliable than stock.
My only worries are the single mounting point and the fact that the cooler is slightly touching my bumper cover. I cranked the very wide, very sturdy looking bumper support anchor nut very tight. Also, the fact that the cooler is touching the bumper cover helps to support the opposite side. Will this cause problems? I.E. melting the bumper cover, springing leaks due to additional tension.
Hope this helps, and thanks in advance for any comments on my install and questions.
Chris
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I want to install the 90 oil filter housing and run the 90 air/air oil cooler. Do you have any pics? You used the blue hose not the ss braided right?
