exhaust manifold sutd question

[turbo addict]

any trick to keeping exhaust manifold studs and turbo bolts in? Will loctite work on the exhaust manifold studs and nuts or does it get too hot? Tired of losing bolts I spent $400 on bolts in the last month.

 

[ryno]

400$ where in the hell are you getting your bolts?
Are you torquing the nuts/studs correctly?
I have taken many of my turbos on and off and have never lost a either. Most the time its the oppisite and they wont come off. I would advise aginast using lock-tite, as i t will make things very painfull if you ever have to take it out.

 

[romeen]

I don't think loctite will hold up to the heat. But it generally is not needed. Are the studs coming out of the head or are the nuts becoming loose. Are you using lock washers with the nuts? It is also easy to strip the threads in the head. If that's the case the best way to fix it is to helicoil it.

For the turbo-manifold bolts you need to use the oem style convex washers (also called cup washers or cone washers). You need to use two per bolt and arrange them so that they are stacked one on top of the other with the convex (pointy) sides facing away from eachother. So on will be "pointing" towards the head of the bolt and the other will be pointing towards the manifold. Without these in place there is a good chance that the bolts will continue to back out.

The part # for the washers is MR187848. You can get them from the dealer or most DSM shops will also carry them. Remember you need two per bolt.

 

[turbo addict]

I don't think loctite will hold up to the heat. But it generally is not needed. Are the studs coming out of the head or are the nuts becoming loose. Are you using lock washers with the nuts?

For the turbo-manifold bolts you need to use the oem style convex washers (also called cup washers or cone washers). You need to use two per bolt and arrange them so that they are stacked one on top of the other with the convex (pointy) sides facing away from eachother. So on will be "pointing" towards the head of the bolt and the other will be pointing towards the manifold. Without these in place there is a good chance that the bolts will continue to back out.

I just bought the arp manifold studs, I had one broke and a couple loose stock ones, and for the turbo bolts I had what ever came on the car from oct 1988 (89 mirage turbo). I just bought the stock mitsu kit from slowboy.

Should I use lock washers on the manifold studs? thank you.

 

[turbo addict]

the other dsm's that I have worked on don't usually have the issues with this, either of my 2gs' or my gvr4 and my friends dsms', but the mirage does see a lot of miles and gets really hot on the weekends.

 

[ryno]

I use them on turbo to manifold. But not on manifold to head.
Hope that helps

 

[romeen]

Yes, use high grade lock washers on the manifold-head studs/nuts and the cup washers on the turbo bolts.

 

[turbo addict]

thanks for the help guys.

 

[Echo5Zulu]

Also dont forget to retighten everything after the first run. Get her warmed up then let her cool down and retighten them. That way if something worked loose when the metal expanded from running youll tighten it back up after the metal shrunk back down. (Think coefficients of heat expansion.)