Exhaust manifold bolts

[GlassAndMarrow]

It looks like whoever had my car before me replaced the 1g manifold with a 2g manifold but forgot to put all the bolts back on. Does anyone know where I can find a set? I figured out that is where my exhaust leak is coming form and I would like to fix that.

 

[TSiAWD666]

Often times OEM parts can be found at the parts department of a mitsubishi dealer. It's shocking, but true.

 

[bmoha2]

you can find those right here in the parts section or thru the different vendors listed. I think it is a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[mitsubishi9908]

STM - DSM - TURBO KITS | TURBOS | GASKETS | OIL LINES | FITTINGS

half way down.

 

[big_d]

Here is the stud and nut kit if you are looking for hardware to bolt your manifold to the head.
Forced Performance Turbochargers: Exhaust Manifold Stud & Nut Kit

 

[blacksheep86]

Forced Performance sell the manifold to head stud kit and the manifold to turbo bolt kit. Not sure which one you are referring to.

 

[knochgoon24]

I've heard of problems with the stainless steel manifold to turbo bolts. I went with the chromoly instead. I think they were cheaper too.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

What kind of problems have you heard about stainless manifold to turbo bolts? I need to pick up a set and was considering the stainless ARP's.

 

[blacksheep86]

Oh I guess I bought mine from extremepsi and they are the chrome moly ARP's.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - ARP 8740 Chrome Moly Turbo to Manifold Bolt Set: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

 

[knochgoon24]

What kind of problems have you heard about stainless manifold to turbo bolts? I need to pick up a set and was considering the stainless ARP's.

I've heard of more people having problems with them seizing and breaking off in the turbo flange.

Here's the thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/287711-arp-stainless-steel-turbo-bolts.html

 

[-TunedDSM-]

Thanks for the link, I'll either go with the chrome moly's or a new set of stockers.

 

[knochgoon24]

Thanks for the link, I'll either go with the chrome moly's or a new set of stockers.

The chromoly ones are pretty nice. The 12pt head really get a good grip in the socket. I just put them on 25 miles ago, and had a brake caliper seize since then, but they don't seem to be backing out like my stockers were. Maybe it's just the new washers. I broke the head off a stock bolt, so I just bought a whole new kit. I got mine off extremepsi. I needed to order a bunch of gaskets anyway, and they were cheaper than getting stockers for replacements.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

The stock bolts are stupid high. Like 10 bucks a piece.
I run the ARP chromoly manifold-to-turbo bolts, with no problems.
I also run the ARP stainless head-to-manifold studs/nuts with no problems.

No matter what type of bolt you use, make sure you torque them to spec.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

You can actually get the stock bolts for under $6 each, but I see your point. For the price, I'm just going to go for the chromoly ones.

 

[jayiszraw]

so im having a similar situation with my 2g but how do i remove and replace the studs? im also missing one that i think may have broken of and if it is how do iremove it?

 

[-TunedDSM-]

If a stud is broken off in the head you will have to drill it out.

 

[fulanititoo8198]

Stay away from the ARP's go oem.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

so im having a similar situation with my 2g but how do i remove and replace the studs? im also missing one that i think may have broken of and if it is how do iremove it?

Depends on where the stud broke. Remove your manifold. Most of the time there will be enough stud sticking out of the head to get a grip on it with some visegrips. Then you can just unscrew them.

Stay away from the ARP's go oem.

Any particular reason??

 

[just90gs]

Or you can take a small drill bit to the middle of the stud drill it center and use extractor to pull the bolt out. but you may want to hit the stud with some pb blast and let it sit for alittle time 1st.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I've heard of problems with the stainless steel manifold to turbo bolts. I went with the chromoly instead. I think they were cheaper too.

He's right. In my opinon stainless is as good a bolt material as wood. The threads always break if you overtighten them, then you're screwed. With other grades of steel, the threads are more maliable, and give you a better chance of ever removing them again.

Come to think of it, wooden bolts would be better. At least they wouldn't ruin your bolt holes.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

so im having a similar situation with my 2g but how do i remove and replace the studs? im also missing one that i think may have broken of and if it is how do iremove it?

Do you have a mig welder? If so, cover your ports in your head with 2" masking tape, and carefully form a small bead of weld on the top of the broken stud. Then you can turn it out with pliers. If it's really jammed in there, you can put a nut over the small bead, and weld that onto the bead. Be careful, but don't worry too much, the weld won't stick to the aluminum, and all that heat really frees up the broken stud.