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EVO III install questions

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red_devil

20+ Year Contributor
1,384
102
Jul 13, 2005
Richmond, Virginia
I have my EVO III, what do I need to get this thing in my 2G.

I can use my stock water lines right?

Towards the j-pipe im looking to run a side to side short route, so I need a j-pipe that runs straight down and that will fit so I dont have to remove my a/c fan.

I have a new mani gasket, so I need only compressor gasket and 02 gasket.

Thinking maybe I can find an old 1G drain tube from a junk yard or a used one somewhere. Make some custom gaskets for the drain tube using some RV sealant and gasket kit.

What else do I need: stock 1G suply line and some copper crushers?

anything I'm missing?
 
I tried to use the oil supply line that came with my Ebay Evo 3 kit. (I know its crappy but it's still working) The hard line that came with it I had to mod to work. I had to use half the new line and half the OEM line. So after a week of that, I bought a SS line from Road Race Engineering, it works great. Put it on in no time. You need new crush washers too, as they can not be reused. And if you can help it, try not to use RTV on the oil return line, the gaskets are cheap.
 
The SBR kit is what you need.

People will talk all day about assembling your own kit, but just buy it from SBR and be happy. The piping routes all the way from the turbo outlet all the way to the oem intercooler location, and for future upgrades, the jpipe fires downward so that when you go for an fmic you can easily adapt.

IIRC I didn't need anything else with the SBR kit.

A few things that have been mentioned a million times already:
1) The 2g return line can be used, the holes on the turbo side need to be filed so they line up with the turbo (this is really easy because the metal is soft enough, but I did use a dremel)
2) The 2g water lines can also be used. Some switched the two lines to make it work, some did not. I myself belong to the latter, but like everyone else, I did have to tweak at least one of them to make it fit better (this is also very easy if you have a screwdriver*).

*If you don't have a screwdriver, please delete your account to all dsm forums and never look at your engine bay again ^_^
 
To more specifically answer your questions . . .
red_devil said:
I can use my stock water lines right?
Yes
red_devil said:
Thinking maybe I can find an old 1G drain tube from a junk yard or a used one somewhere. Make some custom gaskets for the drain tube using some RV sealant and gasket kit.
Just use the 2g drain tube; file as I stated above. You can use RV but it is messy. I say that from my last experience with using it on a return tube; unless I just really sucked at it :)
red_devil said:
stock 1G suply line and some copper crushers?
Yes you should be able to use that. I'm not sure though on the elbow that screws into the filter housing. Maybe someone can verify if a new elbow will be needed or if the 1g line will screw into the 2g elbow.
 
The kit from sbr works great and also the kit from turbochargers.com works great also. there pretty much exactly the same.
 
hewhoisknot said:
Just get a slim line fan to retain your AC. It's going to be really really tight with a stock fan.

BUN


WHAT. Dont do that the stock fan is fine. I have about 3 to 4 inches of clearence on my evoIII. I will give you a tip for installation. Remove your radiator. its 4 bolts and some coolant not hard and it frees up a ton of space.
 
Ok im ordering

evoIII o2 gasket, oil drain gaskets, already have mani gasket.

My stock drain tube now will fit.

Buying a stainless oil feed from a vendor need to find the cheapest price first.

So what J-pipe is recommended? just got my XSpower FMIC and will be going in at the same time.
 
Ok im running an Apexi AVCR boost controller (only because I got it cheap I like MBC)

On the T25 turbo I hook up my vacuum lines from the wastegate nipple and the nipple from the turbo to the Apexi sensor.

On my EVOIII it has the nipple on the WG but none on the turbo, so where do I hook up my other line?

I noticed that the stock 1G j-pipe has a nipple on it, is that how the 1G gets its reading?, how can can I make my AVCR fit my EVOIII?

Thanks
 
AngryScientist said:
you just need any boost source. You *could* tee off the wastegate but really the closer to the intake manifold the better.
Wrong on two counts.

1. You can't tee off the wastegate like the stock BCS setup.

2. The closer to the compressor the better.

red_devil, since you've not purchase the j-pipe yet, get on with a vacuum fitting and use that for your pressure source.
 
red_devil said:
I always check out the VFAQ site before hand, but didnt find an answer.

Its possible to drill through the EVOIII through the threaded part near the outlet and make a fitting right?

Yea, but why would you do that? It's not exactly a thin area of material, and you'd 'ruin' the turbo.

If you're going to drill, just drill in the j-pipe(or other IC pipe) and put a bung in it there.

I also agree with Oldman about being close to the compressor(my source is just after the jpipe), and this has been argued about countlessly in these forums, but some do say that closer to the intake manifold is "better" because it more accurately represents what is entering the combustion chamber after pressure drop from IC and/or whatever.
 
Piping that runs from the compressor outlet to the sidemount intercooler. This is hard piping so it's a great upgrade in itself!
-4AN stainless steel oil supply line that is setup for a 16G turbo. This oil feed line comes from the oil filter location and uses a 24 inch stainless steel -4AN line.
SBR 7cm gasket for the turbine inlet from the manifold
Two new oil drain gaskets
O2 Housing Gasket (Goes between turbine housing discharge and O2 housing inlet)
Stainless Steel Worm Clamps for a positive boost leak free install!
2 Ply couplers rated for up to 25 psi without switching to T-Bolt clamps are included with your kit!

$100 Upgrade Includes
6-bolt Oil Return
6-bolt Water Line Kit
Coolant Extension Hose
Coolant Banjo Bolts w/ Crush Washers
from slow boy for 200 for everything
 
DSMvroom said:
Yea, but why would you do that? It's not exactly a thin area of material, and you'd 'ruin' the turbo.

If you're going to drill, just drill in the j-pipe(or other IC pipe) and put a bung in it there.

I also agree with Oldman about being close to the compressor(my source is just after the jpipe), and this has been argued about countlessly in these forums, but some do say that closer to the intake manifold is "better" because it more accurately represents what is entering the combustion chamber after pressure drop from IC and/or whatever.


Ok if some say its best to be closer to the intake mani, could I just T off from the intake fitting where it connects to the BOV?
 
red_devil said:
Ok if some say its best to be closer to the intake mani, could I just T off from the intake fitting where it connects to the BOV?
That argument doesn't stand because the boost gauge is always tapping the manifold. If one was insisting on using the manifold pressure, one will have to find a delicated line due to the fact that all MBC/EBC will end up bleeding pressure off this pressure source, tapping off the BOV, brake booster, fpr or pcv line will affect the proper functioning of each respective component, leaving the "p" port on the TB being the only option, all other possible side effects of tapping the manifold pressure aside.

BTW BOV line is one of the worst place to tap for MBC, just want to make sure I made that clear.
 
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