Okay, this is a heated subject I know, but I feel obligated to post this, no matter who yells and screams at me.
After having a M.E. install my Evo 3 16g turbo purchased from SSautochrome ( yes, I was curious since no one ever seems to post REAL findings about the turbo, just what other people supposedly heard yada yada... well, here is a first person experience, Bottom line review.
Turbo works fine! Dyno'd the car at 266FWHP @ 17psi (about 320-330 at the crank), and my car is safe to 19-20psi (will be approaching limit of the turbo)... so you can imagine the numbers.... so the turbo itself works like a charm BUT... there were some issues that need to be taken care of before you log onto ebay, buy it and then yell at me when it doesnt have the same results.... the issues are as follows...
1) Wastegate flapper arm was sticking upon install, making boost shoot up over 24psi (BAD).
RESOLUTION: unhook actuator arm and manually work the flapper arm back and forth for about 10 to 15 minutes, checking it the next few times you drive. (checking it takes maybe 5 min so dont be lazy, and dont lose your damn cotter pin) After the second day, the arm moved and worked as intended, with no problems to this day. if you don't know how to do this, GET SOMEONE WHO DOES!!! it's not worth messing up. And dont frigging spray lubricant on it, come on... Hundreds degrees of heat and you're spraying flammable liquid on it.... it will work itself smooth without spraying ANYTHING on it.
2) Oil line supplied with kit NOT WORTH USING!, This shitty peice will ruin any turbo, whether it be a $200 ebay on or a $2000 BB turbo.
RESOLUTION: BUY A NEW ONE FROM RRE AND STOP BEING A CHEAP ASS! $55 AND RUN IT FROM THE STOCK OIL FEED LOCATION PLEASE!
3) when they send you that pretty new water feed line, make it into a sculpture or paperweight, it's not necessary, and wouldn't trust it, please use your stock one.
Other than that, there were NO problems, turbo works great, pulls great, hits full boost at about 3500 and is glad to keep it all the way to 7500 rpms (sorry not taking it further than that)
Any questions about this or if you want the Number to the Mechanical Engineer that does all the work on my car (Georgia tuners only) let me know, he isn't cheap, but when your car is running and your friend that installed everything himself is asking for rides cause his "400hp" bolt on DSM is in the shop AGAIN, you will know it's worth it.
[email protected]
Replying to a valid question, for those of you that want more than 250hp, yes, this turbo can support higher horsepower.
Yeah, others have said the same thing. There was also a serious boost leak I had not found yet that might of affected it. I later found out my BOV was prematurely opening (downfall to buying the knock off Greddy), causing about a 13psi condition (was a hole in the line affecting the displayed boost), I have been back to the dyno since, and dynoed at 302fwhp at 17psi. I still have factory Downpipe and O2 housing atm, I hope to pick up a few more ponies with those, also have a stock MAS.
So yeah, I agree with you, the numbers are low, but every dyno is a little different, but usually the Mustang Dyno's are the hardest judges on us.
Btw, I have also owned a 97 3k VR-4 with larger turbos, so i do have a reference of turbo feel, I was more aiming towards the people looking to spend only a few hundred dollars on an ebay turbo. Most of them shouldnt expect more than 250whp if they are looking to cheap everything out and not have there car towed from the side of the road. My article was more aimed towards correctly installing the SS autochrome turbo, and avoiding human error instead of just blaming the company when some idiot doesnt install the oil line's right, or uses a bogus part... which is 99% of turbo failure.
If you do this, than you can have a quick, fun car, for less than a $1000 of mods, of course higher power goals will actually require spending more money.
Just have been busy opening a new restaurant or I would of posted the new stuff
After having a M.E. install my Evo 3 16g turbo purchased from SSautochrome ( yes, I was curious since no one ever seems to post REAL findings about the turbo, just what other people supposedly heard yada yada... well, here is a first person experience, Bottom line review.
Turbo works fine! Dyno'd the car at 266FWHP @ 17psi (about 320-330 at the crank), and my car is safe to 19-20psi (will be approaching limit of the turbo)... so you can imagine the numbers.... so the turbo itself works like a charm BUT... there were some issues that need to be taken care of before you log onto ebay, buy it and then yell at me when it doesnt have the same results.... the issues are as follows...
1) Wastegate flapper arm was sticking upon install, making boost shoot up over 24psi (BAD).
RESOLUTION: unhook actuator arm and manually work the flapper arm back and forth for about 10 to 15 minutes, checking it the next few times you drive. (checking it takes maybe 5 min so dont be lazy, and dont lose your damn cotter pin) After the second day, the arm moved and worked as intended, with no problems to this day. if you don't know how to do this, GET SOMEONE WHO DOES!!! it's not worth messing up. And dont frigging spray lubricant on it, come on... Hundreds degrees of heat and you're spraying flammable liquid on it.... it will work itself smooth without spraying ANYTHING on it.
2) Oil line supplied with kit NOT WORTH USING!, This shitty peice will ruin any turbo, whether it be a $200 ebay on or a $2000 BB turbo.
RESOLUTION: BUY A NEW ONE FROM RRE AND STOP BEING A CHEAP ASS! $55 AND RUN IT FROM THE STOCK OIL FEED LOCATION PLEASE!
3) when they send you that pretty new water feed line, make it into a sculpture or paperweight, it's not necessary, and wouldn't trust it, please use your stock one.
Other than that, there were NO problems, turbo works great, pulls great, hits full boost at about 3500 and is glad to keep it all the way to 7500 rpms (sorry not taking it further than that)
Any questions about this or if you want the Number to the Mechanical Engineer that does all the work on my car (Georgia tuners only) let me know, he isn't cheap, but when your car is running and your friend that installed everything himself is asking for rides cause his "400hp" bolt on DSM is in the shop AGAIN, you will know it's worth it.
[email protected]
Replying to a valid question, for those of you that want more than 250hp, yes, this turbo can support higher horsepower.
2deep said:Very nice review on the EVO3 GT. But its really hard to compare a turbo unless its done back to back on the same set-up. We all know that the 14B isn't the greatest turbo, but it is when you go from a t25. I'm sure your your happy with the performance of your evo gt compared to your last turbo, but in all fairness I made nearly a 100whp more than you with the same boost level with a ported/clipped MHI EVO3. 361fwhp@17psi. Don't worry about trying to convince ppl on how good the turbo is, just enjoy how its working for you.
Yeah, others have said the same thing. There was also a serious boost leak I had not found yet that might of affected it. I later found out my BOV was prematurely opening (downfall to buying the knock off Greddy), causing about a 13psi condition (was a hole in the line affecting the displayed boost), I have been back to the dyno since, and dynoed at 302fwhp at 17psi. I still have factory Downpipe and O2 housing atm, I hope to pick up a few more ponies with those, also have a stock MAS.
So yeah, I agree with you, the numbers are low, but every dyno is a little different, but usually the Mustang Dyno's are the hardest judges on us.
Btw, I have also owned a 97 3k VR-4 with larger turbos, so i do have a reference of turbo feel, I was more aiming towards the people looking to spend only a few hundred dollars on an ebay turbo. Most of them shouldnt expect more than 250whp if they are looking to cheap everything out and not have there car towed from the side of the road. My article was more aimed towards correctly installing the SS autochrome turbo, and avoiding human error instead of just blaming the company when some idiot doesnt install the oil line's right, or uses a bogus part... which is 99% of turbo failure.
If you do this, than you can have a quick, fun car, for less than a $1000 of mods, of course higher power goals will actually require spending more money.
Just have been busy opening a new restaurant or I would of posted the new stuff
