EPN SS 1mm ovrsized valves?

[DSM IN MN]

Has anyone ever heard of these valves? I have a friend on Facebook who is selling a set (intake and exhaust), for $115 shipped to me. I thought "Cool; cheap Stainless Steel valves, they are 1mm oversized, and they are new!".

Then I got to thinking.. I tried looking them up and could not find them anywhere. The seller says they are an off brand, but he has used them in his builds before.

I guess I am just looking for some positive feedback on these before I sent a payment. Thanks!

 

[bryanwheat]

First off, what kind of power are you trying to make? For most people this would be a complete waste of time. You are also going to have to spend money to have the seats enlarged and have the seats angles re-cut.

 

[DSM IN MN]

First off, what kind of power are you trying to make? For most people this would be a complete waste of time. You are also going to have to spend money to have the seats enlarged and have the seats angles re-cut.

I am shooting for 600. I have read that people shooting for high HP are the only one's who need them. But I ALSO read that it will open the head up a little more. And increase your power a little.

I have the opportunity to use a 6 or 7-bolt head for my engine build. Both are used (hell, the 7-bolt is still on the car...running, ). So they are both getting rebuilt. I figured why not upgrade?

I do understand you will have to have the head machined to fit the vlaves. The seller said he had it done for $80 for his previous builds (which used these valves).

 

[1qkfwd]

For them to flow right your also gonna have do some port work to unshroud the valves. The combustion chamber is already close to the stock size. Wouldn't be worth the added cost. Be easier just to get new stock sized valves.

 

[Fejery4491]

You're shooting for 600 horse but were complaining via the book of face about machining prices being outragious. I'd aim a little lower, say 400. Take everything on step at a time. You're young still, you remind me of myself just a few years back (I'm 20) You've seen my car, it's stripped down to practically nothing. My goals when that first gets put back together is a low 13. Slowly work your way up to where you'd like to be, or 95% of the time you'll end up parting out.
That being said, you won't need oversized valves for 600whp, hell people make that on stock head+stock intake manifold. You would definately be better off spending your money elsewhere.

All this being said, EPN makes a pretty good product. I know of a couple guys running them on some Mopars, and they have no complaints. I would probably put them in my own engine.

Why don't you just get some standard size stainless EPN's? That's what I would do.

 

[DSM IN MN]

You're shooting for 600 horse but were complaining via the book of face about machining prices being outragious. I'd aim a little lower, say 400. Take everything on step at a time. You're young still, you remind me of myself just a few years back (I'm 20) You've seen my car, it's stripped down to practically nothing. My goals when that first gets put back together is a low 13. Slowly work your way up to where you'd like to be, or 95% of the time you'll end up parting out.
That being said, you won't need oversized valves for 600whp, hell people make that on stock head+stock intake manifold. You would definately be better off spending your money elsewhere.

All this being said, EPN makes a pretty good product. I know of a couple guys running them on some Mopars, and they have no complaints. I would probably put them in my own engine.

Why don't you just get some standard size stainless EPN's? That's what I would do.

My complaint(s) of machining prices still stands. I have my feeling about it; simple. If I want to think paying $700 to have a "large drill-bit" run though a few cylinders is outrageous, that is my prerogative.

That being said; I love how every says to work your way. I personally just do not want to have to take the engine out or tear it down after it is done. That is, if there is no good reason to.

As I said before, the seller is only asking $115 shipped for them. That is the only good reason I considered buying them. I guess I will go back to my plan of MAP's valves.

 

[Fejery4491]

We live in MN man. Not a whole lot of quality machine shops around....so the ones that are here get to charge whatever they want. And you wouldn't have to pul the motor. Just the head, which is like a one hour job. Spend your money on your bottom end so you don't have to pull that again if you're so worried about it...but leave the head until you need it. A simple valve spring/retainer/cam would be plenty for now.

 

[bryanwheat]

My complaint(s) of machining prices still stands. I have my feeling about it; simple. If I want to think paying $700 to have a “large drill-bit” run though a few cylinders is outrageous, that is my prerogative.

That being said; I love how every says to work your way. I personally just do not want to have to take the engine out or tear it down after it is done. That is, if there is no good reason to.

As I said before, the seller is only asking $115 shipped for them. That is the only good reason I considered buying them. I guess I will go back to my plan of MAP's valves.

Someone wanted 700 to bore a block or what? I get them done for 50 bucks on a 4 cylinder.

 

[DSM IN MN]

We live in MN man. Not a whole lot of quality machine shops around....so the ones that are here get to charge whatever they want. And you wouldn't have to pul the motor. Just the head, which is like a one hour job. Spend your money on your bottom end so you don't have to pull that again if you're so worried about it...but leave the head until you need it. A simple valve spring/retainer/cam would be plenty for now.

I understand. MAP would be a great place. However I know I am going to pay. Plus I think they like to do the assembeling. I am pulling the motor for the simple fact, the car is getting a 2.3L stroker.

Plus I am putting it all into the car at once.

I understand. MAP would be a great place. However I know I am going to pay. Plus I think they like to do the assembeling. I am pulling the motor for the simple fact, the car is getting a 2.3L stroker.

Plus I am putting it all into the car at once.

Someone wanted 700 to bore a block or what? I get them done for 50 bucks on a 4 cylinder.

Everyone I talked to said I was lucky if I got it done for $600. They said it would probably be around $500 by MAP. I just find it a little ridic.

 

[bryanwheat]

I understand. MAP would be a great place. However I know I am going to pay. Plus I think they like to do the assembeling. I am pulling the motor for the simple fact, the car is getting a 2.3L stroker.

Plus I am putting it all into the car at once.





Everyone I talked to said I was lucky if I got it done for $600. They said it would probably be around $500 by MAP. I just find it a little ridic.

It is like 12-15 bucks a cylinder at 5 different places around here. I can take a block in get it hot tanked, bored and decked and spend no more than 120 dollars.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Go to Motors by Gosh in Rogers. I got my machine work done there and he does great work for a great price. His shop is located right next to DB Performance.

 

[2slow4now]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/376765-anybody-heard-epn.html

I have a set of valves and guides and have had no problems. If BogusSVO thinks they are then that's good enough for me. You can get them on ebay or just contact him with email or phone. He responded to my questions quickly.

 

[Fejery4491]

I understand. MAP would be a great place. However I know I am going to pay. Plus I think they like to do the assembeling. I am pulling the motor for the simple fact, the car is getting a 2.3L stroker.

Plus I am putting it all into the car at once.

Ok so pull the engine, stroke it and throw it back in. That doesn't change the fact that it's almost mindnumbingly easy to pull the head at a later date.
I just don't get why you wouldn't just wouldn't do that.

 

[DSM IN MN]

Ok so pull the engine, stroke it and throw it back in. That doesn't change the fact that it's almost mindnumbingly easy to pull the head at a later date.
I just don't get why you wouldn't just wouldn't do that.

I had a hard time following the last part. Oh, and when running a MLS headgasket, your decksurface matters. So taking the head off might effect that. On top of the headstuds SHOULD then be changed out, along with the headgasket. Do it right the first time, you don't have to do it again.

 

[Fejery4491]

It wasn't understandable cause I was speaking jibberish haha. Removing the head wouldn't change the deck surface, and I wouldn't think twice about reusing L19s that measure within spec. But whatever, I guess we just think about things differently. We'll just have to agree to disagree.

 

[nitrouskris]

word is that EPN and Ferrea are the same valve.

I HAVE BEEN RUNNING AND USING THEM FOR 5 years now without a problem

FROM ANOTHER FORUM......
Funny thing is half my valves are stamped EPN and the other half are stamped Ferrea. Reason for that is his valves and ferrea are both made my the same plant. So when he runs out valves and they don't have any ready for him they just send him the ferrea valves.

 

[DSM IN MN]

It wasn't understandable cause I was speaking jibberish haha. Removing the head wouldn't change the deck surface, and I wouldn't think twice about reusing L19s that measure within spec. But whatever, I guess we just think about things differently. We'll just have to agree to disagree.

You may be right. I migh be able to run them again. But I am planning on using MAP Ultimate Duty H11 Head Studs. I have not really looked into L19's. I have heard of them but never given' them much thought.

 

[Fejery4491]

H11 and L19 are like the same thing. Same material, made in the same place. I think there was a thread about it recently....

 

[C_Keagy]

I have these valves if they are the same ones from ENGNBLDR. Same valves from 2009 been through 2 heads one Melted the combustion chamber. Currently sitting at 800whp.

I'd say yes they work pretty good to me.

 

[1SLOW93TURBO]

Same here... I bought the ENGNBLDR EPN valves, bronze guides and 3mm lifters and ran them a few years ago with no issues. I made 775awhp running 40 psi + nitrous.

 

[keltalon]

I use them as well very high quality. I had an angle cut on the back of the intake to help with air flow 2 yrs and no issue with valves or guides