Engine rebuild gone bad!

[rcarrier]

Hello, i just had a new engine rebuilt,something happened during the rebuild , not sure what, could not get head gasket to seal, finally got that proble taken care of, then after only 100 miles, lost oil pressure (havent got it down yet to see what happened) But anyway, i am running a a/t, what piston's would you guys recommend? I am looking for some more bottem end power, i was thinking wiseco 9:0:1, any help on this would be appreciated! Also what are the pro's and con's with going with higher compression, i am planning on getting a much larger turbo (have the famous big 16g right now, seems to produce alot of knock) Also can i still run 20+psi on 9:0:1 compression on 110 octane?
Thanks again guys!

 

[dsm10sec]

Maybe the reason you're getting a lot of knock on the 16g is because you have a stock FPR and not an AFPR. Maybe you have an AFPR but in your profile it just says new FPR.

 

[1fast97gsx]

you don't need an afpr for a 16g.

 

[dsm10sec]

maybe not a 16g but a 255lph you do

 

[greathuskie]

that wouldnt cause knock, that would cause his car to run rich as hell, unstable as hell etc

 

[dsm10sec]

I heard someone on here had knock probs w/o one.. i have a 255 w/o one and I have knock problems in 1st gear even though I've tried turning the mid dial all the way up on my maft.

 

[anconover]

if his car were running rich as hell... that would cause knock. You can knock from being rich you know.

How much boost you can run is all dependant on your tuning and setup. Im not a fan of 9:0:1 compression, but.

 

[Defiant]

if his car were running rich as hell... that would cause knock.

What?

You can knock from being rich you know.

Um, no. We didn't know that one. Pray tell, how?

 

[sweet97]

I had also heard that a rich condition could cause phantom knock. That would NOT be actua deonation that would blow a head gasket but pull timing. I will try to find it. MarkPS: My guess is the writer of this post did the job himself and it was a partial rebuild like a re-ring and bearings? not very upset and talking new pistons now?!

 

[Remy]

maybe not a 16g but a 255lph you do

wrong again.

 

[rcarrier]

I had also heard that a rich condition could cause phantom knock. That would NOT be actua deonation that would blow a head gasket but pull timing. I will try to find it. MarkPS: My guess is the writer of this post did the job himself and it was a partial rebuild like a re-ring and bearings? not very upset and talking new pistons now?!

This was a full build guys, stage 3 head all the goodies, went with 2g pistons on my stock rods, 262/274 cams, anyway not really concerned with knock right now, got the engine out and the machine shop got my center main cap mixed up with another engine they were doing , anyway i just need some help deciding on pistons this time, after pulling this engine twice , i want to get the compresion right! And btw i do have a AFPR thks guys!

 

[sweet97]

r. Carrier please tell me they are going to take care of their mistake!!?? Aren't 2g pistons an 8.5:1? With an automatic I would think a 9:1 would be beneficial but I cannot say for sure as my rebuild is ahead of me and I have a 5 speed. I believe Buschur sells a 9:1 piston and Jarrod or even Dave Buschur would be of help with your decision. I would go with the opinion of guys bulding motors regularly with this one. Mark

 

[diambo4life]

Yes, you can get knock from running too rich although I don't really think it's the case in this situation. Personally, I wouldn't even have those same people build my block. Get a refund and go elsewhere. I wouldn't be surprised if the knock had something to do with the build up or the regular causes (ie. boost leaks, defective K.S., poor tuning etc etc..)

 

[BrokenTsi]

What?

He said, you can get knock from running too rich. And you can.

 

[Maglin]

Hope Defiant is being sarcastic. Rich knock is a well know condition. Something to do with the inability to control the flame front or something. I don't know the specifics but I do know it's their. The more Quench volume you have the great the chance of rich knock being apparnt. I had a rich know condition for a while. Was seeing .96v on my Narrow band O2's. Only thing I did was get it down to .91v and the knock went away and the car picked up about 30 HP so my logging software says. The but dyno said GREAT as well.

 

[rcarrier]

Yes, you can get knock from running too rich although I don't really think it's the case in this situation. Personally, I wouldn't even have those same people build my block. Get a refund and go elsewhere. I wouldn't be surprised if the knock had something to do with the build up or the regular causes (ie. boost leaks, defective K.S., poor tuning etc etc..)

The guys at the machine shop are gonna take care of this for me, as they said it was there fault, they are gonna pay for everything, and again the knock is not an issue right now, i just need to know what pistons you guys would run, and no its not going back to that machine shop (although everyone makes mistakes) i would feel uneasy putting one of there motors back in! So you guys think 9:0:1 is too much?

 

[rcarrier]

And as far as the knock goes, if you dont believe you can get knock from too much fuel, turn your safc (or whatever you tune with up and see for yourself)!

 

[anconover]

shouldve sunk in defiants head enough now, so can probly continue on with original post.

My personal preference is a 8:3:1 wiseco or a 8:5:1 ross piston. Going with a 9:0:1 would prove to be fine for your intentions as well, but tuning will become a little more difficult.

 

[1LE]

wrong again.

Not wrong... You may run for awhile on the stock FPR with a 255lph pump, but the stocker WILL fail eventually... May take a couple years, but it really can't handle it.

 

[rcarrier]

shouldve sunk in defiants head enough now, so can probly continue on with original post.

My personal preference is a 8:3:1 wiseco or a 8:5:1 ross piston. Going with a 9:0:1 would prove to be fine for your intentions as well, but tuning will become a little more difficult.

I think you are right on the tuning issue's, i am going to order the ross 8:5:1 , found them with free shipping and $410 for the pistons and locks,& rings! This seems to be a pretty good buy, unless anyone knows somewhere else!

 

[Maglin]

Not wrong... You may run for awhile on the stock FPR with a 255lph pump, but the stocker WILL fail eventually... May take a couple years, but it really can't handle it.

That is not the reason you CAN'T use the stock FPR. The stock FPR wil be overran until the injector demand dropes the supply to a point where the stock FPR can operate as intended. Their is just to much fuel supply and the very tiny stock return that is inside the stock FPR is just to small to allow enough fuel to return. So it won't fail. It just won't operate correctly. That is why you might see 45+ PSI of fuel pressure at idle. If you want to go cheap you can get a N/A Stock FPR from another 4G63/64 and run that. It's set at something like 45 PSI I think. Could be wrong but its enough to get you buy. And it also has a vacumme referance port so you don't have to worry about that either.

Another thing you can do is get the B&M Command Flo to raise the stock fuel pressure to say 45-48 PSI and then tune accordinly. Your stock 450cc injectors will supply fuel as a 510ish cc injector. It was what I did for a cheap fix while I was putting together my fuel system.

 

[1LE]

Hmm. Mine worked just fine with a 260-290lph pump and stock FPR for awhile. Then gradually I noticed that my EGT's would start moving around a LOT while cruising. Fuel trims were going all over the place from way rich to way lean and back again. Eventually the FPR just gave up and quit regulating fuel at all. Car would flood instantly while trying to start.