Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

[eric489]

All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.


I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.

 

[mattasi]

Could be a loose fog light If no bad sounds then keep driving Check your trans fluid and motor oil fluid.

 

[nate95tsi]

Sure it wasn't a tick, or was it definitely deep motor knock? Something like that would have me ripping everything apart looking for the issue. Deep knocks that go away suddenly would be something that scares me. Was it in the lower part of the motor, or did it sound like it could have been coming from a combustion chamber etc? I know some motors, the pistons hit the cylinder walls when its cold, causing a deep knock and it goes away at random times.

Yeah sorry guys I'm not to sure on how to give a good description on something that didn't have any bad signs. It was definitely a knock that sounded like the lower end. Usually when lower end knocks happen they won't go away though, and I'd be leaking oil from the main seal. I'm not entirely sure on how to describe it better.

 

[custom99eclipse]

Hello first off id like to say names Ryan, I'm new to the fourm I have a 1999 Mitsubishi eclipse rs stock besides exhaust and intake my car has 126k bought car at 120k and now it sounds like my engines done for but then again I'm new to cars, I'ts my first car and i truly love it, lost with big engines dont know where to start used to motorcycles.


Anyway lets get to the real problem recently got oil change 500 mi ago ruffly and car has been running great but about a week ago it started making a knocking / scratching / squeeking sound under hood sound consistently changes and may stop for few min ( this is at idel) also every now and then when i turn the car on when its cold or very hot out it will rev at 4k rpms for about 3-8 min at the most the stay steady between 1500-2k for about 10 min after that then finely idels at 1000-1200 rpms, I am also a delivery driver witch i know does not help at all, Just trying to give a back round hope its not more info then needed. here is my car "i do expect to get bashed" due to wing but hope we can see past that and try to figure out my problem. Just made this video 10 min ago. any input helps

GOPR0361.mp4 video by ryandiorio617 - Photobucket

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1228.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee442%2Fryandiorio617%2FGOPR0361.mp4">

 

[born2tune]

I would guess it's a rod bearing failing. It would require a little bit more skill to inspect this and be sure but that's what I would say.

FYI, you can pull the cable on the throttle body by the intake manifold and rev the engine, you dont have to sit inside and press the pedal down, I chuckled when I saw that.

 

[Kng Nothg]

its your power steering pump going out.

 

[custom99eclipse]

I would guess it's a rod bearing failing. It would require a little bit more skill to inspect this and be sure but that's what I would say.

FYI, you can pull the cable on the throttle body by the intake manifold and rev the engine, you dont have to sit inside and press the pedal down, I chuckled when I saw that.

Hope its not that serious as in ($500+), Sounds fine then light scratching then screeching then sounds like somethings flying around in there. Also drives fine but i do have to say ether I,m going crazy or my car got a bit slower..

Haha thanks for tip like i said new to cars would like to fix the problem my self am fairly mechanically inclined rebuild my yzf-r1 motor and just about every thing else that can go wrong on a rice rocket.

its your power steering pump going out.

How sure are you? Or is there a way i can check ? real mechanics like to rape people and i can't afford that right now. Would like to attempt to fix it my self and have a mechanic as last resort.

 

[Sws]

Hope its not that serious as in ($500+), Sounds fine then light scratching then screeching then sounds like somethings flying around in there. Also drives fine but i do have to say ether I,m going crazy or my car got a bit slower..

Haha thanks for tip like i said new to cars would like to fix the problem my self am fairly mechanically inclined rebuild my yzf-r1 motor and just about every thing else that can go wrong on a rice rocket.




How sure are you? Or is there a way i can check ? real mechanics like to rape people and i can't afford that right now. Would like to attempt to fix it my self and have a mechanic as last resort.

I don't think it's a rod bearing, that's what's messed up on my engine and it's much louder and constant no matter what rpm.

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

Sounds like its coming from the belt area. Probably the water pump or alternator. Any signs of over heating or lights dimming? Maybe a.c. Too.

 

[custom99eclipse]

Sounds like its coming from the belt area. Probably the water pump or alternator. Any signs of over heating or lights dimming? Maybe a.c. Too.

lights are good no over heating ac is fine i use it 24/7 , At first it was just screeching so i thought o just worn belts was told they should be replaced around 120k anyway then that knocking sound came around day or so later, when i put my ear the cover i hear weird sounds like throwing a rock into a metal fan every now and then it catches bounces around ect but then can be smooth like nothings worng you can kinda get the idea from video its fairly consistent but there is times where it sounds close to perfect and its very random no pattern what so ever randomly makes sounds .

Id love to think its belts but sound is way to rough sounds a bit nicer then the video then in person.

I don't think it's a rod bearing, that's what's messed up on my engine and it's much louder and constant no matter what rpm.

hmm, wonder what it could be any way to narrow it down step by step, dumb question but should i stop using my car till i figure it out if something is bouncing around all i could do is more damage, stopped using car yesterday when i really started to hear sound.

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

take out the timing belt inspection cover and see how the belt looks. My gs sounded like that when the water pump lost a chunk.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I decided to remove my emission components this past week and when I stated up my car afterward, I had a loud knocking from the engine that I can't really describe beyond that. I didn't let the car run for more than maybe a minute at most. Idle was high too, around 2k rpms. I reinstalled all the parts the next day and my idle returned to normal, but I still have a knock. It's nowhere near as bad as when it started. I took it by the local DSM shop yesterday after work to let them offer their input. They said that believe it too be rod knock. However by my description to a friend and fellow member here of the symptoms, it may not be rod knock. I am doing an oil change next week when I get paid and will be pulling off my oil pan to check the rods and pan for metal shavings and movement.

I've done some searching and found plenty of good info regarding rod knock, but the info doesn't quite match up to what I'm experiencing. Anyway, the knock does occur at idle, but its not consistent. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not. It occurs randomly. When I open the throttle I can hear it more often at low rpm. It also seems to be coming from cyl 3 or 4. While driving, I hear it with the same kind of frequency, however, when I'm accelerating and back off the gas, it'll happen. No matter what gear I'm in or rpms I'm at. I've only heard it a couple times while under boost.

I was told to pull the plug wires one at a time to check for the rod knock, and I read that in my search too. I did do it, but never heard any change.

By everyones description of rod knock in this forum, the knocking my engine does doesn't seem like it's a rod, but I'm not ruling that out right now. Just looking for some more input from you all. I have taken video of the engine with the knocking going on, but its not audible in the vids over the normal engine noises.

 

[undefined0000]

Can you describe the depth of the knock? Is it up by the valve cover or lower under the exhaust manifold? This thread is going to eventually end up in the engine noise graveyard merge, but post a video anyway, it might help.

 

[spyderdrifter]

It sounds like its coming from right under the cyl head. I'll go through the videos I have to see which would be best to post and upload it.

 

[undefined0000]

Don't know if it really happens with these motors, but there is also a piston slap

 

[Narish Do Urden]

Mine is doing the same thing, same spot. It COULD be Crank Walk. There's not really any pre symptoms of it, it just happens in 2G 7 Bolts. If it IS Crank Walk, I'd suggest just doing a 6 bolt conversion, they're better engines. I talked to our DSM Jesus a.k.a Chad from 3D Motorsports, he thinks the same. I told him the symptoms you just described. I was praying it wasn't since this is my only way of getting around, but there's no denying it.

Knocks also though can have something to do with the fuel, run HEET through your tank, my opinion though is crank walk, just like mine did on the same day.

I have a 97 Spyder

 

[spyderdrifter]

I've heard of piston slap, but was always told its a distinctive slapping sound.

 

[Alan11]

-Injector tick.
-lifter tick.
-rod knock

One of those three.

 

[undefined0000]

If that's not it, read what the guy mentioned above. Never dealt with a car with crank walk, but my GM 3100 had a piston slap and it did literally sound like metal slapping in the same area you're talking about.

 

[Alan11]

Mine is doing the same thing, same spot. It COULD be Crank Walk. There's not really any pre symptoms of it, it just happens in 2G 7 Bolts. If it IS Crank Walk, I'd suggest just doing a 6 bolt conversion, they're better engines.

Knocks also though can have something to do with the fuel, run HEET through your tank, my opinion though is crank walk, just like mine did on the same day.

I have a 97 Spyder

A well maintained 7 bolt can be as good and reliable as any other engine.
6 bolts have cranked walked too..

Knock caused by fuel?? you mean knock in the combustion chamber? witch in my experience is not loud, you need a log to see that type of knock.

I have a 2G - bolt with over 140k. And is running VERY strong. Stock block and head.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I have to agree with Alan11. I'm not rejecting you guys suggesting crankwalk, but in all the research I've done in the past regarding it, I honestly can't believe that my engine is experiencing it. I have about 750 miles on a fresh rebuild, with all new bearings and everything. Plus crankwalk is a silent thing. Crankwalk wasn't even a consideration in my mind due to all that has been done. And as Alan11 already said, crankwalk can happen to any engine. My first turbo DSM had a very strong 7-bolt that I never had problems with, and it was mostly stock, with higher miles. I know how how lifter tick sounds though, and this is a far different noise. How do I check for the injector ticking? I've heard of it, but never looked into it.


On another note, the engine I want to build will be a 6-bolt, but not due to crankwalk. They are stronger, yes, but my choice for doing a 6-bolt is not based on crankwalk possibilities.

 

[Alan11]

uuuu if you know what lifter tick is then i would go more into the conclusion that it is indeed rod knock..

Injector ticks aren't loud at all.. its less than lifter tick..
You said it has a 750 mile fresh rebuilt? Who assembled the bottom end? i woulnt start the car until you pull the oil pan, and inspect the bearings.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I assembled the whole engine other than installing the valvetrain components under the cams.

Unfortunately this is my dd...

 

[Alan11]

was the crank turned?
you used plastigauge to measure?

what was the reason for the rebuilt? was the BS removed?

I cant really think of anything but rod knock or a colapsed lifter..

If for any reason you start the car again use a piece of wood and put it against the block/head and put you ear on the wood and try to hear where the noise is coming from. Top or bottom end.

 

[spyderdrifter]

No, the crank wasn't turned. Did remove BS. Rebuild was done because I had to replace the oil pump.
Would a collapsed lifter sound different that the normal ticking? I don't think I've ever encountered a collapsed lifter.

 

[Alan11]

Me either thats why it always an option .. haha ...