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Engine / Harmonic Balancer Woes

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neghsmoke

15+ Year Contributor
34
0
Nov 28, 2004
Olney, Illinois
Bought a 1995 2.0 talon turbo this winter for a decent price that wouldn't start. Finally got aorund to looking at it today, and there was low compression in every cylinder (under 30) **compression tester worked fine on a different car**

So I decided to start tearing apart the engine to see if the gaskets are any good. We removed the drivers side top engine mount, timing belt cover, a bunch of the top end annoyances, etc. Now we're ready to remove the timing belt, and according to my manual, I will need to remove the harmonic balancer to do this. Problem is I don't have a chain wrench, and we couldn't loosen the center 1/2" (bolt?) because we couldn't keep the pulley from moving while trying to remove it. According to the book you should be able to stop the crankshaft from moving is you pin the flywheel down, but that sounds like a little more work than necesary when I just want to pull off the head.

Have I done anything wrong yet, and how do you suggest removing the harmonic balancer / crank pulley? We didn't even try removing the 4 bolts only, because we were too concentrated on the center one, but perhaps the easy answer is the right one?

What to do
 
Is it too late to take the car off the jack-stands, put it in gear, and then loosen the pulley bolts? Thats how I would do it if I was in your position.
 
any suggestions on how to get to the pulley bolt if I was to replace the tires and take it off the stands? Is that really the best solution? I'm going to tackle it first thing tommorow with the best idea that is presented.
 
neghsmoke said:
Now we're ready to remove the timing belt, and according to my manual, I will need to remove the harmonic balancer to do this. Problem is I don't have a chain wrench, and we couldn't loosen the center 1/2" (bolt?) because we couldn't keep the pulley from moving while trying to remove it.
What manual do you have that doesn't explain the center bolt has nothing to do with the harmonic balancer? It's held by four bolts to the cam sprocket.
 
haynes / chilton
says the center bolt needs to be loosened in order to remove timing belt. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm
never liked these god damn books. Will get to work on it again today.
 
BUCK said:
Dude - cut the damn Belt & get to work jerking the Head so you can see your Bent Valves - Do a Search for topic Head Removal & you'll find some good stuff.

Absolutely!! If you are not sure that the belt is new, slice it up. If you don't want to cut it, remove the 4 bolts, pulley, the remaining timing belt covers, and the tensioner. Then the belt should slip off with a little coaxing.

Also, an Impact wrench works wonders on that center bolt if you really want to remove it.
 
Don't you need to get the center bolt out if you are going to replace the crank pulley itself? Mine is literally broke in two peices (the outside is 100% split off from the inside peice). I obviously need to replace it but wont I need the peices that are on the inside? If so, will putting it on the ground in gear work to get the nut loose?

--Kyle :talon:
 
You will need to pull the bolt. I have done it twice. The first time I stuck a crowbar in the teeth of the flywheel to hold it. It's a bi*** if alone. The second time I popped it right off with an impact wrench. I will opt for the impact wrench from here on out. Much easier and I don't have to worry about breaking teeth on the flywheel.
 
I dont have access to impact tools...Can the putting it in gear on the ground thing work? Mine is an auto by the way, if that matters.

--Kyle :talon:
 
One option is to rent an impact wrench. A friend of mine and I rented an electric impact wrench for a car of his we were working on. I think it was around $15-$20 to rent. The bolt came right out with no problem. We were so happy to get that bolt off! Then we figured out we needed a special tool to pull the harmonic balancer off. Then the special tool ripped the harmonic balancer in 2. :cry:
 
here's the downlow on the story

Apparently the guy had the head rebuilt and installed professionally. About a week afterwards the car stopped running and he didn't wanna #### with it. it has low compression like I said, and the timing belt LOOKS extremely new. I will be able to tell better once I remove the crankshaft pulley and the plastic covers.

I'm guessing he didn't do the timing belt right when reassembling it, and fuxored some valves.

BTW I haven't done alot of research on replacing the timing belt, because I haven't gotten to that point yet, but when putting the belt on, I know the cam timing marks must be parallel, the #1 piston must be TDC on the compression stroke, but what I don't know is about the other pulleys.

Does the crank pulley need to be pointing to 10deg TDC on the guard? What about the oil pump pulley? All I saw in the vdc was that they should be pointing to the top and left. How precise do they need to be?
 
Read up on the items under "Timing Belt" at this link:

http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-engine.html

Most people seem to go based on this procedure and it seems that it covers all the little aspects. I haven't followed it through yet but it seems right. Typically things on the vfaq page are a lot more clear than in your Haynes/Chiltons guide.
 
I skimmed through it before posting this writing it off as a loose guide, but after rereading it, it goes into pretty good depth. Thanks for the heads up and replies. Extremely helpful
 
Does anyone know if you can use the putting it in gear trick to work....I really dont want to go get an electric impact wrench. I also dont want to #### anything up in my tranny or anything.

--Kyle :talon:
 
bigemrich said:
Does anyone know if you can use the putting it in gear trick to work....I really dont want to go get an electric impact wrench. I also dont want to #### anything up in my tranny or anything.

--Kyle :talon:

With a standard you don't even need to put it on the ground. Just put it in gear and have a friend stand on the brakes while you crank on the bolt.

I HIGHLY recommend impact tools for the bolt though...and soak it in wd40. You DO NOT want to break this bolt off in the crank.

why are you pulling this center bolt anyway?
 
bigemrich said:
Don't you need to get the center bolt out if you are going to replace the crank pulley itself? Mine is literally broke in two peices (the outside is 100% split off from the inside peice). I obviously need to replace it but wont I need the peices that are on the inside? If so, will putting it on the ground in gear work to get the nut loose?

--Kyle :talon:

As many have said, crank pulley has nothing to do with the center bolt.
 
oldman said:
As many have said, crank pulley has nothing to do with the center bolt.
Wait wait wait. Alright, plain and simple, I am changing the timing belt and I need to replace the crank pulley. Do I need to remove the center bolt or not? Maybe I am just retarded, but I want to make sure before I go pulling stuff apart. Thanks for putting up with my insane intelligence :rolleyes:

--Kyle :talon:
 
Here is a copy of what I think your Crank setup should look like.

I do see a center bolt with a big washer. If this doesn't look like what you have, post your VIN number and I will send you a parts breakdown.
 

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bigemrich said:
Wait wait wait. Alright, plain and simple, I am changing the timing belt and I need to replace the crank pulley. Do I need to remove the center bolt or not? Maybe I am just retarded, but I want to make sure before I go pulling stuff apart. Thanks for putting up with my insane intelligence :rolleyes:

--Kyle :talon:

no.....

what are you doing with the balance shaft belt?
 
crankbender said:
no.....

what are you doing with the balance shaft belt?
I will be removing the balance shafts per the instruction of vfaq.com

Halligoo, yes, that is what my setup looks like, I am an auto.

--Kyle :talon:
 
bigemrich said:
I will be removing the balance shafts per the instruction of vfaq.com

Halligoo, yes, that is what my setup looks like, I am an auto.

--Kyle :talon:

Then just cut the bs belt off...you do not need to remove the center bolt and I highly suggest you do not.
 
ALRIGHT GREAT!!!! Thank you guys so much for helping me out, haha. I am off to continue work, now that I know wtf I am doing. Once again, thanks alot, I love you guys :thumb:

--Kyle :talon:
 
Well, I finally got it off, and to those in the future who may read this, just take out the four bolts and then give the pulley a few light taps with a rubber mallet, and then just pry it out gently, it will come eventually.

--Kyle :talon:
 
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