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engine cleaning question... [Merged 2-7] engine bay washing

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water/condensation could also have gotten onto your cam/crank sensors.
 
I went and removed the negative batt cable to reset the ecu, but after starting it up again, the cel was still on and it still sputtered when I gave it some gas, but the idle is fine, I didn't drive it, but I'll let it sit and try it again tommorow, hopefully it will dry out. I looked and the only things that could have gottne that wet are the plug wires/boots and maybe the alternator and the coil pack.
 
if you cant exactly find it you can spray the essential parts like plugs and wires, ignition coil wth WD-40, it displaces water temporarily. so if you leave a way for the water to evaporate completely, like disconnecting plug wires and let them hang upward so the moisture will evaporate. you should be good to go in a few minutes after you sprayed them...
:dsm:
 
also count how many times the cel blinks for codes, do the on, off, on, off, on procedure then count em, they blink double digit codes, so after two it will pause a few then the next code will come if there is another. related to the problem your having, code 54 is loss of camshaft position, and 43 misfiring on one or more cylinders... hope this helps peace
:dsm:
 
well, I let it idle in the driveway for a while and revved it up and it ran fine until I drove it, and as soon as I drove it it started misfiring again, and when it sputtered, the cel also rapidly blinked, so I'll wait another day and hope it gets better, thanks for the help so far, I'll let everyone know when i find it out what it is,
Heff
 
I'm not sure how to find the code without a Scanner, someone posted above and said count the blinks, but the CEL stays on it doesn't blink
 
alright, I pulled the plug wires and found a good amount of water in the boots and chambers of two of the cylinders, so i blew them out and let them dry , and it ran good for a day, but the check engine light still was on. However this morning it started running like crap again, so I'll check the wires again, and see if theres more water, I'm surprised that it would run good for a day though before getting worse again.
 
Ok I followed the code diagnosis link, but any time the key is on, but the car isn't actually running, the cel turns off and stays off. It only comes on when the car is running, so what does that mean? I checked the plugs and two of them need replaced, so maybe thats it, but as of today it's at least running fine, so thanks for the help so far
Heff
 
This info is provided by www.2gnt.com

When an fault with your car is detected it stores the fault in it's internal EEPROM. Normally, you have to take your car to a dealer to have the problem diagnosed. Thanks to Chrysler's and Mitsubishi's ingenuity, the codes can be displayed with a few simple turns of the ignition key. Although the codes listed will help you diagnose a problem with your car, they do not allow for complete diagnosis and/or also may not even be the actual problem. For complete diagnosis you will require a scan tool and a service manual. I can't stress enough the help that the service manual provides for problem diagnosis. Everyone should own a service manual if they are planning to do any work on their car.
To check the PCM codes, insert the key into the ignition and switch the key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within a 5 sec. time period. Then count the Engine light flashes. The number of flashes represents the trouble code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate indivdual trouble codes. All codes will end with 55 which signifies End of Codes / No detected failure.

PCM Codes and Datalogger designations for the DSM 420A The diagnostic items are shown in the following table. Note that a fault’s numeric codes are different, depending on the method of inspection

For sheet go to

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=8
 
Alright, the check engine light has finally went off, and it's running fine, so thanks for the help eveyone, I know I saved some money by not taking it in,
thanks
Heff
 
i use grease lightning it works well plus a pressure washer.or you can go to the parts store and get engine degreaser in a spray can they work as good too.
 
Everytime I clean my engine, I use Gunk that i buy at Autozone. It works pretty well unless there is some serious grease build-up
 
I was going to take out the ac system in the car cause I dont use it and it will help me get the close to the 200 pounds I want to drop. My question is the lines that go into the dash of the car can I just cap them off cause I dont want to take all that out. I still want the heat for those cold nights.Also the fuses under the hood for the ac system should I take those out as well.2ND Going through alll the wires in the hood is the one that goes from the intake manifold to the brake system is that my brake bosster line. It has a small cut so I was goign to replace it but not completly sure what it is.3RD Cleaning the frontmount intercooler what should I use to really clean it I dont want to use gas but if that is what will clean it I will. 4TH is what can I spray on the block to clean all the oil and grim off without wipeing it dry year ago my engine blew and the firewall is *#%^ed so I want to get it looking bettter that it does. 5TH is it ok to use the gaskets from the manifold to turbo and turbo to o2 housing gaskets if they look alright I want to do some porting on these things the gaskets look good they havent been on long and the metal still looks good.


Thanks guys AJ
 
Paragraphs are your friend! :)

Anyway to answer your questions here goes:

1. Yes you can cap off the AC lines..

2. Just guessing from your description I would have to say yes... that is your break
booster hose.

3. Gasoline works but there are several cleaners/degreasers that you can use.. Purple Power, Simple Green, etc..

4. I use simple green for just about anything involving oil/grease cleanup.. Spray it on and let is soak a bit... You may need to use a brush on the particularly gunked up areas to break the grease loose. Rinse it off with a good high pressure squirt from the hose.

5. I dunno... I tend to replace gaskets any time I have something apart... especially in critical areas that I don't want to leak, but I guess to each his own... I would use them as a guide for your port job then put new ones on.
 
i was wondering in detail since i have never washed the engine what would be good to cover if i can wash everything down and what not to get wet anyone who has washed there motor let me know thanks :thumb:
 
If you buy a can of Engine-Brite or a similar engine cleaner, they'll tell you what to cover in the instructions. Since our cars aren't carburated, it really isn't necessary to cover anything (unless you have an open air filter element or something), with the exception of "sensitive electronics." As long as you don't use a pressure cleaner or anything though, you don't really need to cover anything.

I've washed my engine several times, not once covering something, and everything turned out well.
 
I've detailed these engines many many times at my shop and cover up nothing in the engine bay. I just spray the engine cleaner and let sit for a few and then pressure wash off. I have never had a problem with this before.
 
cool i will just use a regular garden hose then. I should leave the engine running to my mechanic told me to leave it running it helps he said well guess i will try that thanks. What kind of cleaners would u recommend for it something u have used thats good? ;)
 
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