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Engine build. I know it's a dead horse

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carsaval

15+ Year Contributor
115
0
Oct 18, 2006
Yukon, Oklahoma
ok so my 7bolt is starting to walk out the door. And before the crank starts running, I want to start building a 6bolt. Heres what i have so far, I am mainly stuck on wha pistons to get.

6bolt block (non-turbo) I know but its 50 bucks at the junk yard.
1g head stock in whatever form its in. (i'll get it done later or do it with the money i have left over.
1g big rods.
new oil pump
ebay gasket kit,
machine services, bore .020 over, honning, micro polishing crank, (anything I'm missing)
balance shafts removed. new mitsu timming belt, and tensoiner.
oreillys water pump.
ARP head studs and rod bolts.
and ford racing blue block paint.

Please let me know if im missing anything, and what kind of pistons to get. this will be a 16g powered daily driver so reliability is key. Thank you in advance for your help.
 
Don't mean to change the subject on this thread, but is there a difference between the 1g 6 bolt turbo block and the 1g 6 bolt non turbo block.
 
What pistons you want depends on what power, compression you want to make. You could always keep the 2g pistons and put 1g rods on them. Search their's more info on engine build like info than any other thing on this site.
 
Just to give an idea of the tools you will probably need....
piston ring expander
a QUALITY piston ring compressor (there are two different kinds)
a rubber mallet
a quality torque wrench for accurate torque values (I would use a 3/8 drive)
a good file for gapping piston rings
a feeler gauge to measure ring gaps, thrust bearing clearances, etc.
a good engine assembly lube
an organized tool set so you won't have to look for sockets during engine assembly
a tube of rtv grey
good ol' buddy JB (for balance shaft elimination)
oh yeah auto zone sales a bottom end gasket kit for 6-bolt turbo. ask for the 1990 conversion gasket set. It comes with every o-ring, gasket, seal, and crush washer to rebuild your bottom end. its about $26. I haven't had any oil leak problems with it.
oh yeah on the concave side of all your rod and main bearings, make sure they and the sufaces that they mate to are completely clean and free of dirt.
also, for every inch of bore you should have .004" of gap in your rings. you have stock bore pistons so it should be an 85mm bore. divide that 85mm/25.4(to convert) and you should get something like a 3.34", which is your bore in inches. then multiply 3.34" by
.004" and you should get .013, which what your ring gap should be or very close.
 
ok wow thats awesome information.

what do you think of using the non turbo block I know of a couple track/ weekend warrior cars running them.

On the pistons I am only shooting for abot 350whp with a be316g. but would like some room to grow. and not to mention some better control of temperatures because of not having oil squirters. I will try to find an oil cooler to play it safe.
 
4g63 nt's came in some 1gs (never in 2gs).. the only differences between its turbo counterpart are:

-weaker pistons
-no oil squirters
-different intake or exhuast cam (not sure which one)

reputation appreciatted.. :cool:
 
4g63 nt's came in some 1gs (never in 2gs).. the only differences between its turbo counterpart are:

-weaker pistons
-no oil squirters
-different intake or exhuast cam (not sure which one)

reputation appreciatted.. :cool:


no, the 4g63 NT also came in a few 2gs (have to defend the 2g 4g63 NT crew and spread correct information at the same time..see my gallery for pic proof..see my old 2004 setup,new pics coming sometime)

the pistons are just as strong,(how do you make a weak piston??)its the rods that could give out.. (but i run 15 psi on stock nt internals..no problems..cept the clutch giving out.)

i have a 7 bolt NT block and a spare block..both have oil squirters..

cams are different from year to year.
 
ok I see. Well lets talk compression then. if I use mine from my 7 bolt it will be 8.5, what will that do as far as performance in the 1g block and head? or in other words what is the best compression ratio for my mid level performance set-up. (actually 350 is kinda low in the dsm world LOL)
 
well im a high compression kinda guy, the 1g 4g63 t had like 7.8..thats loow

i personally am looking to get some forged 9.1s(i cant find any higher ones soo..) so i can run more boost (i have close to 10 now)

these motors have a longer stroke than bore.. so you can help throttle response by getting higher compression pistons .. 8.5 -9.1 are fine IMO ,sure other people will disagree (we are on the internet here...everyones an expert...)

the evo 3s and 4 had 9.1 compression..

besides,having better respone while off boost helps..especially when you have a larger laggy turbo.(not the 16g is laggy, my bullseye v trim is laggy IMO ..but its not bad at all)
 
no, the 4g63 NT also came in a few 2gs (have to defend the 2g 4g63 NT crew and spread correct information at the same time..see my gallery for pic proof..see my old 2004 setup,new pics coming sometime)

the pistons are just as strong,(how do you make a weak piston??)its the rods that could give out.. (but i run 15 psi on stock nt internals..no problems..cept the clutch giving out.)

i have a 7 bolt NT block and a spare block..both have oil squirters..

cams are different from year to year.

I dont know where you are getting this information but if you search you will see that the nt 4g63 does NOT have oil squirters. And I would like to see the fool who would run the same boost on nt pistons as turbo pistons. Secondly the rods in the 1g nt 4g63 are the same as the 1g turbo ones - so you are wrong here.

Now im not gonna go and say there aren't any nt 4g63's in 2g's but If there are - That would be new to me and alot of other people.


:beatentodeath:
 
I dont know where you are getting this information but if you search you will see that the nt 4g63 does NOT have oil squirters. And I would like to see the fool who would run the same boost on nt pistons as turbo pistons. Secondly the rods in the 1g nt 4g63 are the same as the 1g turbo ones - so you are wrong here.

Now im not gonna go and say there aren't any nt 4g63's in 2g's but If there are - That would be new to me and alot of other people.


:beatentodeath:


i am the fool whose running boost in a 4g63 nt in a 2g.. my 7 bolt 2g rods look different than my 7 bolt 1g rods..


both my NTs habe oil squirters, i dont base my information off what i read, i base it off what i see..in my hands - in my garage... look at my gallery pics of my car..see the nt engine in the 2g.. look at it
 
Not to go against you or anything but I also searched and could not find any of your pictures of this so called 2g nt 4g63. So if you have any we'd like to see proof.

Maybe it's a European only model?
 
The poster asked the difference in the 6bolt nt and the turbo motors. NOT 7bolt. And like I said I searched your profile name and came up with nothing in your profile or gallery.
 
Not to go against you or anything but I also searched and could not find any of your pictures of this so called 2g nt 4g63. So if you have any we'd like to see proof.

Maybe it's a European only model?

well i just checked and my picsare gone... again!!:notgood:

yesits a euro model, mitsubishi just dropped the 420a in the us models to increase the domestic content in the car.. no need to do that in europe because chrysler was basically unkown at that time.

the euro engines had 150 hp in nt form, most turbos(if not all the gst and gsx) were grey imports from the states ..

mitsubishi europe didnt officially offer the gst/gsx because they offered the 3000gt in vr4 trim only, and the eclipse in gs trim only .. ill postsome pics, but all i have are turbo converted pics.. only nt tell tale parts would be the nt TB, and NT fusebox..LOL

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note fuse box and TB ...
the stock maf is on there because my gm maf was actin up..fixed now LOL

edit 2
found an old pic!!!! before the turboing my nt!!! TFW !!!
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Well Id suggest 2g pistons if your wanting a cheaper build.But by the time you pay for machine work and such,your only $100 or so away from forged pistons.So thats really up to you.As far as 4g63 n/t and 4g63t differences:n/t block doesnt have oil squirters,n/t has smaller rings lands on the pistons(which causes them to blow apart under knock),rods and crank are the same between the 2,head is the same,1 of the 2 cams are different.9:1 compression should be fine for you if you go forged,any more and youll have to have a good tune to keep the knock down.You can call up any piston company and have them make you some if your set on a higer compression ratio though.
 
ok so basically i should look into using my 2g pistons if I can. Not to be arrogant or anything, I just want to know. Higher crompression equals more power/ and more knock ?
so that means less boost but better low end which equates to a better daily driver. If I am wrong please correct me I dont want to be iggnorant when building this thing i want to do it once do it right and not think about it for 60k miles.
 
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