Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[LILGSX96]

I am braking mine in now with my B/B turbo also. I have no problems.

 

[decibel]

So Hi. New but I've been reading here for several months.

After a long down time I'm finally dropping in my new engine this weekend. It's finally all together and just sitting on the stand calling my name. So anyway, its a new mitsu short block (long story, local machine shops here suck) with a new FPBig28, No balance shafts, DB UICP, MBC, 1gbov, boost guage, turbo timer. Stock fuel system and exhaust for now. I was wondering about the break-in. Can I go ahead & use synthetic oil? How low should I keep the boost? Any tips or lessons learned regarding break-in of the new motor would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[kmartind]

Standard answer:
Use non-synthetic oil and take it very easy for the first 500 miles or so (like try not to boost at all, but I'd never have that much will power). Of course there are differing opinions. Here's a link to what amsoil has to say about it: http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/convertingtoamsoil.htm
And here's Mobil's opinion:
http://www.prod.mobil1.com/index.jsp
They are basically opposite ends of the spectrum, so I guess it's a judgement call.

 

[turboholic]

-The last break-in, I was told to run the motor in neutral for 30 minutes with varying RPM 2K-5K, drive for 500 miles with low or very low boost.

-But I did idle for 30 minutes to check for leak prior of reving it. good luck.

 

[Defiant]

You might call Redline and ask their opinion, too. Very straight-arrow folks, won't sell you a line.

 

[kmartind]

Correct mobil1 link (oops):
http://www.prod.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp

 

[decibel]

thanks for the info guys, that was interesting reading. I guess I'll settle the oil issue with the wallet... I mean if I'm gonna change the oil out at about 500 miles, I might as well just use a good dinosaur oil for the break-in, then go synthetic. I just can't wait to hear this thing purr. After I get it broken in comes the exhaust & fuel mods. Wish me luck. The original motor was never modded and lasted over 196k before it crankwalked. I just hope this one makes it half that far. I'll take more pics along the way.

 

[3L3C7R0]

Just so you know, you have to change your oil a lot for the first couple months of breaking in, I don't remember the exact amout, but there are a lot of different milage points at which to change it

 

[UndergroundR32]

My Galant is almost finished and I'm going to do a 500 mile break in on the car. Forged 8.5:1 pistons, crower rods, Brand new valve train with double springs, oversized valves...ect.. I know the break in period has a lot to do with the seating of the piston rings though I don't know too much about that. Now if I rush this and put 500 miles on the car, whether I'm babying it or not, in 2 or 3 days, and I going to defeat the purpose of the break in? Should I do this over a longer period of 1 1/2 or 2 weeks?

 

[candela]

No...people worry to much about break ins. A normal, and just fine break in would be just drive it all over the place as you normally would (not being to hard, if you wanna give it a couple 2nd gear pulls feel free as you wont hurt anything). Extended periods of sustained RPM is not a suitable way to break it in however, but it doesnt matter how long it takes just put a few hundred then rip it up and enjoy...

Its all a matter of opinion. something have worked for some and different ways have worked for others. I just think people get to worried about breaking motors in, and that there is a set of rules. Some people jsut start it up and idle it for 10 minutes, retorque the head studs tehn immediately beat the shit out of it and it works just fine....different strokes for different folks


Austin

 

[hose101772]

3 heat cycles,thats what ive always gone by.probably a good idea to ease one around for a few minutes on first drive just incase something not tight,or worse, to tight.

 

[UndergroundR32]

Might work fine for a few thousand miles, but I'm worried about long term durability and how the break in is going to affect that.

 

[candela]

Well you dont need to be. Check your compression after about 200 miles and I betcha it will either not go up any higher from there, or if it does it wont go up and more than like 3psi....which shoudl satisfy you. If you are "worried" then drive another 2 or 3 hundred then go to the track or something do it and get it off yoru mind....

 

[UndergroundR32]

I'm not necessarily worried.. Just precautious. The reason I ask this question is because this build has taken much much longer than I had expected and I'd like to baby the car as little as possible before I can really drive it. For obvious reasons.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by candela
No...people worry to much about break ins. A normal, and just fine break in would be just drive it all over the place as you normally would (not being to hard, if you wanna give it a couple 2nd gear pulls feel free as you wont hurt anything). Extended periods of sustained RPM is not a suitable way to break it in

I concur. What I've heard is most important is that you "move the heat around" in a fresh motor- give it some freeway miles, city miles, country miles, easy miles and hard miles. Lots of variation. Breaking a motor in in one day won't much matter to the motor, although I also liked the sound of the "three heat cycles" opinion. Other than heat-up and cool-down time, mechanicals don't know what "time" is. They're as happy running days on end as they are heading down to the jiffy mart for a fresh six pack.
Main precaution with fresh engines is readjusment of belts and the like, and a checkover for leaks.

 

[SANiTaRiUM16]

I was just wondering. What would cause an engine to break. Besides the obvious like not enough coolant/oil. What would cause so much stress that it would just fail? Also, what are the consequences of driving around with bad axles? I need mine replaced but refuse to do so. The wheel seems harder to turn. I've needed them for about 3 months now but I am NEVER going to replace them. When I step on the gas the engine revs, i feel something spinning then it catches and the tires go. I laugh my ass off everytime. Not to mention I have a semi automatic transmission!!!!!1 yes thats right! Its so ####ed up that while Im crusing i step off the gas and then step on it again really quick without it losing any speed and it shifts gears!!! It truly is amazing. You have to love being a student and not being able to afford shit because of insurance.

 

[sphillips91]

Just keep driving like you are and you will get your answer.

 

[nutshot]

You have an auto? How is it's oil level?

 

[SANiTaRiUM16]

It leaks oil but the oil level is fine. i have no choice to drive it like I do. The throttle position sensor is bad. I step on the gas, sometimes it goes, other times it does not and most of the time it goes slow and then i step down on the gas the slightest and it floors.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Geez man, your really asking for trouble. In no time we're all going to see you post something like, "Welp, there goes my DSM" Try to save some money up working and do what's right.

 

[SANiTaRiUM16]

Thats the thing Pheonix, Money. I have none. I can not afford to keep dumping money into this car. I invested 3 grand already into it. My mechanic says the car is garbage and to get a different car. He is right. This car is on its way out and there is nothing I can do about it. There is just too much wrong. Soon there will be one less DSM on the road. I'm looking into a 97 Dodge Avenger V6. I know its not the fastest but it is bigger and more powerful than what I have. I only hope I get lucky with a newer car.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Oh Ok. I forgot you were the one who already posted about ditching the dsm for the avenger. My fault. good luck.

 

[TiMMaH668]

Well i have just rebuilt my motor and upgraded many things. I have removed the balance shafts, and bought a 2g manifold, 16g turbo, and a clutch. Ported everything except the head(little scared about doing head work). All the bearings are new along with new rings and gaskets. My question is what should i do the first time a start her up? How should i break it in. And for how long should i baby it??? Please answer only if you are experienced in this area, and if you are a mechanic of some sort....even better.

 

[Hossein_Bader]

hi man, I want to overall my engine 2, do u know a site were I can buy an overhall kit, with gasgae, seals etc

thanks

 

[TiMMaH668]

I acctually ordered my kit through pepboys. They order it froma company called hi-tech. seemed reasonable.