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Electrical Power issues

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GST98BIG16G

15+ Year Contributor
239
1
May 24, 2006
Chicago, Illinois
Ok as you all know , problems with dsm's never end there is one more for you tro solve :)
Ive been having power issues with my car , i have safc hooked up and i switched it to show my Voltmeter from engine , when the car idles it goes up to 14-14.2 and its fine , i turn my lights on my radio it slightly falls down but then get back up again. When i drive lets say 3rd gear 50-60mph and have radio on everythings fine suddenly i put it in neutral , my volts drop down at 12v and radio shuts off, car idles fine 750rpm and then after some time it goes back to 14v again. ??? And now i get in my car and my rpms dont show so that means not on safc either nor a/f correction is displayed...... I got on the high way drove it for 10-20 minutes , reved it up and rpms start showing again on the safc everything works fine too. The volt issue still there. If i start my car after driving it rpm's show ok but if i let it sit for 2-4 hours it doesnot show again , so i get in the car rev up the engine and it works again.... HELP? :cry: Ground wire by the battery is new.... :beatentodeath:
 
It is wierd. Maybe your alternator isn't charging you battery enough. Check the belt tension. If not your alt may be getting ready to take a poop on you. Also, have you done any recent mods in your electrical wiring?

...although your radio shouldn't shut off. The quality usually just gets really bad.

ps. I am from Chicago also. If it gets too bad I can hep you troubleshoot the problem.


Any WISEMAN ideas?
 
see man i changed like 3 alternators in past 3 years i got this one not so long ago. no the problem just appeared form nowhere no recent electrical work performed. idk im lost , yeah definately man , you can help me. Merry Christmas everyone.
 
I talked to my buddy and it may not be an alt issue. How are the other grounds on your car? next i would say to just check out all connections and if not then check the ecu. i will pm me with my cell num and if you don't figure it I will try and get my other dsm buddy to come and meet up or something
 
Check the positive wires from the battery to the fuse block, and the alt. to the fuse block. I had a similar problem, my wires from the battery to the fuse block were all crispy and corroded. I went and replaced them with a higher diameter wire (lower gage) and it solved all my voltage problems. Hope this helps.
 
When the car idles its ok 14.2V , as soon i rev it a little and it goes bacl to idle Voltage drops down to 12.1-12.2V. Same when driving is fine but as soon as put in neutral before red light it drops down again . alternator? wires ? i have brand new Optima red top HELP? Guys please
 
nah , no heatshields . The one i changed (dipstick fell out and got oil all over it so it stopped working) number 2 git shortened while changing and just burned up , this is my number 3 just randomly started doing this :) i dont thing heat shields do much.... :D but thanks anyways!!! Any other Opinions?
 
Got this from a google search: If it doesnt work, check the Tech section here, i know there's a couple electrical drain threads.......

One Very Simple Alternator Test:

1) Start Car and run at a normal idle.

2) Connect a Voltmeter Directly Across the battery Terminals.

3) Turn on Headlights to High Beam.

4) check the battery Voltage.
*** The Battery voltage Should read between about 13.8 to 14.2 volts. (Possibly up to 14.5 Volts.)

5) Increase motor speed to about 1500 RPM. The Alternator should now produce a battery voltage between 14.2 and 14.6
Volts.
*** If it is Lower than 14.2 volts, the Alternator probably has one or more Bad Diodes.

6) Now, Maintain the 1500 RPM and Turn off the Headlights. Run this test for One Full Minute.
"The Battery Voltage should NEVER Exceed about 14.8 Volts".
***If it Does, the Alternators Voltage Regulator is probably Faulty, OVER CHARGING the Battery.
 
SO when at idel and driving speed the volts are fine. You only have this problem when in neutral? Did you check your Idle Stepper Control?


Also called Idle Air Valve/ Idle Speed Control.
 
Correcting , when the Rpms go down to idle(in one of the cases when i put in neutral from lets say 3rd gear because theres a red light coming up) , volts drop down to >12v also, but the idle is fine 750or850 i dont remember..... , then slowwwly rises back up again. The belt is tight, alternator new , battery too. Where are all the grounds for the alt? i need to make sure all the grounds are fine. Anyone know where are the grounds for charging system on 2g turbo?
 
Ok im MAD now. I went out and got brand new Alternator put it in , checked all the wires , remade some new connections that didnt look good. Got a new Gold Plated 24k negative battery terminal. Redid my ground from the battery. Checked and sanded the connections on the one that goes on the intake manifold. STILL the car doesnot get voltage right up , and my RPM do not show anything. If i drive 1 hour or something RPM start showing up and then my SAFC can set A/F mixture properly. The voltage problem still there . Guys help IDK what to do!!!
 
Are you venting? And have you checked your ecu for the fishy smell? You say you had the alternator tested, did you have the battery tested outside the car?And what about that belt tension like freshlane said:confused: Also check ALL aftermarket stereo wiring for bare spots. Heck you might as well check your aftermarket gauges and whatnot too. Still worried about your ecu....:(
 
Did you check your SAFC connection points at the ECU? Try using a voltmeter instead of the SAFC to measure your battery voltage to make sure the SAFC isnt fried. Measure your battery voltage at idle, then manually give it some throttle to see if the voltage goes up or down.

You can also try the electrical drain test.......
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54846

Besides the voltage dropping, does your car still run strong with no other problems?
 
ecu is fine , i put another one that i have it was the same. battery is red top optima 1month old. belt tension is perfect. took out all aftermarket stereo wiring and etc. connected stock radio. gauges work fine. SAFC is showing good voltage i used voltmeter same stuff. the rpms start showing after i drive it for a little bit. Car pulls strong , no problems. Did everything that is possible , idk...
 
Okay, so it's a month old. You should still have it load tested out of the car to be sure. Honestly it sounds like a short somewhere and for that I say good luck. It might be time to have a pro look at it especially since you took out the majority of your aftermarket stuff.
 
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