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Egt

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I run DSMlink. In every case where you have to set the global setting, which is like your base injector setting, to something other than what your injectors really are, there is a problem with the car. No matter who tries to fight it, they always find that it is true. ;) Which injectors, Denso blue tops, blacks, or other? Were they flow tested? Saturation times? What is your base pressure? Any leaks before the turbo? Is your valve cover vented to atmosphere? PCV valve sealing properly? TB seals shot? BOV leaking? Any other vac or boost leaks? Any of these things will alter the required base setting. You say you are using tbolts and silicone hoses, but I am sincerly hoping you arent sayng that to imply that you dont have any boost or vac leaks. 90% of the time the leaks are NOT at the hoses/clamps anyway ;) And tbolts and silicone hoses can still leak often. And given the number of peope that post about said base setting problem on the DSMlink list, I am not one bit surprised that other people are also on the wrong base settings. Its many times more likely that its the car's fault than the MAFs too. I dont claim to konw everyhting, and i'm not always right, but there is no point in tuning until EVERYTHING I mentioned above is in working order and in spec. Also, I cant remember if you are blow through or draw through on the MAF. If you are blow through, only leaks after the MAF will cause fuel issues (turbo efficiency is another story) but 90% of boost vac leaks come after the TB elbow. The other 10% are IC, BOV, and hose connections. Hope some of this helps...
 
Hey I am not smarting off. If I say thank you that's what I mean. I am not claiming to know more than anyone. My sig line says it all. Brand new Blitz injectors draw through MAF. 2 months on tb, turbo outlet,and bov gaskets. It could have a vac leak, my gauge is boost only. The pcv passed smog check 5 months ago. I included the clamps/hosing as a rule out. I changed the settings to 700 and then 650. My max DC jumped to 75/85%. It ran slow and crappy, the temps were still too high, although lower. Either I have a broken knock sensor or egt gauge. If I didn't have .88v (low for the car) I wouldn't doubt the knock sensor. I feel like chucking the gauge and run it at 750 setting because it feels sweet there. Thanks, Scott
 
If you want to check for leaks, build one of these:

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Click on intake in the upper left hand corner and scroll down to the bottom to find the leak tester. Really simple to build and use, and it will help you to rule out problems now as well as down the line. I have no experience w/ the MAFT, sorry. I also wouldn't pay too much attention to your o2 reading. All it will tell you is lean, stoich, rich.
 
Originally posted by igs


Good. Go home and cry to mommy little rocket boy. :laugh:

igs, please keep all your snide comments to yourself. If you have a difference of opinions then feel free to professionally explain them in a technical manner. If you want to act like a little school kid and call names then do it elsewhere.
 
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