ecmlink log. please input and suggestions....

[99 gst spyder]

Hi guys, I just did a log here in ecmlink. I wasn't in much boost at all. I know I'm getting knock like crazy, but I don't understand how I'm getting so much while I'm boosting or not?

I'm in the process of breaking in my built bottom, but with these log here is just hard for me to break in the motor. How should go upon this?

When normal operating temp at around 200- 210 degree, I seem to get more knock. I usually get a cel when knock comes in but somehow I cant seem to see anything on my DTC, every time I tried to update it, nothing show's up. Pretty much anytime while driving and when I get a cel, nothing comes in my DTC box. HELP...??

Please look at it and give any suggestions.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Check the condition of your knock sensor. Make sure there's no goo coming out of it and check wires. Also make sure it's torqued in all the way to spec.

 

[95ttalontsi]

I would deffinatly check or replace the knock sensor, or change your settings in dsmlink to ignore knock sensor at low load conditions cause it may be phantom knock as well

 

[99 gst spyder]

Knock sensor was replace new while during build. I guess I can re-torque it down.

How would you know if it's phantom knock or real knock?

 

[snowborder714]

Change the Knock Sensor Control values in the ALS/Knock tab to try and prevent phantom knock. I'd suggest 2500 RPM and 25% throttle (or maybe a little higher, depending on when you're seeing knock).

 

[99 gst spyder]

Change the Knock Sensor Control values in the ALS/Knock tab to try and prevent phantom knock. I'd suggest 2500 RPM and 25% throttle (or maybe a little higher, depending on when you're seeing knock).

Not understanding what you mean by 2500 RPM and 25% throttle.

I've been trying to break it in and doing compression test. Seems to get a little better but slowly. Currently at 90-110-110-100.

 

[snowborder714]

Look at the ALS/Knock tab and look for RPM/Throttle position values that you can change.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Is your mod list a typo, because if you are running 1000cc injectors with those settings then your drowning your fresh motor in fuel. The knock would be the sound of your new pistons compressing liquid fuel.

You have the CEL set to come on anytime you register more than 4 degrees of timing retard due to knock. It won't set a Diagnostic Trouble Code.

 

[99 gst spyder]

Is your mod list a typo, because if you are running 1000cc injectors with those settings then your drowning your fresh motor in fuel. The knock would be the sound of your new pistons compressing liquid fuel.

I haven't added the 1000cc in yet, since it's not tuned yet, it's still on stock 450's. I do believe that there might be some kinda of fuel and oil mixture since the rings aren't seated in yet.

Anyone know how to check for codes in the DTC box? Should a code just pop up on its own when you get a cel? Not sure how that works.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Yeah if a code happens it will be listed in that box until you clear it, or at least for a while.

 

[99 gst spyder]

Look at the ALS/Knock tab and look for RPM/Throttle position values that you can change.

Not sure, but will check into it. What's the differents between knock retard, raw knock and phantom knock? Wouldn't I want to see any knock to be safer instead of like hiding them until after 3k rpm.

Yeah if a code happens it will be listed in that box until you clear it, or at least for a while.

Then I don't why I'm not getting any codes when I have a cel such as knock or overheated coolant temp. Cel do come on when I have knock over 4-5 and anytime coolant temp get over 235 but no codes.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Knock retard is how much timing your ECU is pulling to compensate for knock.

Raw knock is how many counts of knock the knock sensor hears.

Phantom knock is whatever the knock sensor hears, that is NOT actual knock. (loose engine mounts, rod knock, etc...)


The settings in ECMlink that allow knock and coolant temp to illuminate the CEL are for your convenience. There is not a code in existence for the presence of X counts of knock, or for your engine reaching a certain predeternined temp. You can turn that off if it bothers you.

Think of it like a shift light. It comes on to tell you it's time to shift, that doesn't mean there has to be a code that says you forgot to shift.

Perhaps you harmonic balancer is toast; if it slipped, it may have tricked you into screwing up base timing.

 

[99 gst spyder]

So, perhaps I turn the light off in ecmlink and if it where to over heated or have too much knock then how would I even know if I turn it off.

 

[boost97gst]

How many miles do you have on it with those low comp numbers? After my build i checked at ~300 miles and had 180 exactly on all 4. Im just curious.

 

[99 gst spyder]

How many miles do you have on it with those low comp numbers? After my build i checked at ~300 miles and had 180 exactly on all 4. Im just curious.

Not even close to 25 miles yet. Base on my logs, I haven't really decide on driving it much until I know everything is safe/good. But it drive normal and pulls good.

Did you have to start with low compression at the begining and work your way up while putting mile on the build?