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DYNO'd 400+ hp

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aliengotpsi

20+ Year Contributor
64
0
Oct 13, 2002
Fargo, North Dakota
Hey ,

befor I dyno'd today I had pte 50 trim,130,000 mile stock internals, 2g manifold, 650'cc, fpr, 255 hp, fmic, greddy bov, 2g mas, with s-afc,

Max hp was 412 and TQ 378
110 octane 28-30 psi
Ran many many many 11.2's all day long.
Weigh 2700lbs with cage and with out driver


Now I have add'd Forester Intake mandifold, HKS 264's and a Stage 3 dsm CHIP :(
max hp 414 hp and TQ 379 :thumbdown
110 Octane
30psi
Time to get rid of the chip and i should make 460-470 hp any thoughts?

10's are out there only need a lil more hp which i thought the intake and cams would do.!!


Kevin Smith
Straightlinespecialties.com
[email protected]
 
kpt4321 said:
What is wrong with the chip?


Doesnt give you any Timing... try to tell me the hks cams and the forester intake doesnt gain power?? thos are proven to help.

Has anyone made huge power numbers with the chip??


Kevin

SLS
 
That's because it increase the ECU's stored load level, because it does not require you to totally screw the airflow signal up with a SAFC/VPC.

If you want the high timing you get with big injectors and airflow hacking, then you need to find someone who can edit the ECU (Jeff of DSMChips.com, myself, etc) to burn you a chip with a new set of timing maps that are appropriate for what you want the car to do.
 
With the chip I set the base to positive 5 degrees instead of the base set at 0 without the chip. I was told its not a racing chip. So if anyone can reburn/ edit the chip tell me where to send it off to!!

MUST RUN 10'S!!!!!


Thanks

Kevin
SLS
 
Huh? Why did you have the timing set to zero without the chip?

Increasing base timing will give you very similar results to hacking your airflow.

I already told you two people I know of who can do the chips... Talk to Jeff first.
 
With out the chip ,

I set the base timing at 0 and then could run 30 psi with 110 octane

If i would try to set the base timing over 0 I would then get too much Knock

Didnt matter I still ran 11.2's all day long with out the chip n then I add the chip and Intake and cams and dont gain power..

I just need to get the chip edit'd I will contact jeff , hes a great guy!!


Kevin
SLS
 
You aren't going to make much more power than what you are making. 129mph is damn near unheard of for a 50 trim. If you want 10's, drive the car better.
 
aliengotpsi said:
Doesnt give you any Timing...

How much total timing did you have before the chip? How much do you have now?

Either advance the base timing to get total timing back where it was, or send the chip back to Jeff and have him burn a custom timing map on there based on the timing you were seeing before you swapped EPROMS.
 
It seems like you're kind of jumping mods, trying too much at once. I would try putting the timing back to what it was and see what happens. Or maybe just undo the mods and re-do them one at a time.

But you're making lots of power. 129 mph is impressive; I would think you could have 10's with that if you really tried.
 
rarson said:
It seems like you're kind of jumping mods, trying too much at once. I would try putting the timing back to what it was and see what happens. Or maybe just undo the mods and re-do them one at a time.

But you're making lots of power. 129 mph is impressive; I would think you could have 10's with that if you really tried.


Jumping Mods?>?? After the intake and cams and chip, Started base timing at 0 and then after a few pulls went to 5 degrees and pickd up 30 TQ and a lil HP

Im not gonna take off the cams and intake... why would I? thos are pruven gainers..
I just need the Chip set back to 440's instead of 650's
Btw how many ppl have hit 10's with only 414HP?????
Kevin Smith
Straightlinespecialties.com
 
Why do you need to set the chop back to 450's? Have you listened to a sigle damned thing that I have been saying?

You have two options. One will let you get the timing you want without ever touching the chip, and the other way will get you the timing you want through modifying the chip, without requiring you to have to go crazy with a SAFC (like you were suggesting by putting the injector size back to 450).

Option 1: Adjust the base timing to get the total timing back where it was. You know what kind of advance you were getting with the stock chip, right? And you know your AFR with the stock chip, right? So, tune the car to the AFR you want using the SAFC and the AFPR, and then play with the base timing to get total timing back where it was. Boom, done.

OR

Option 2: Look at a datalog to determine the timing advanc cuve you want at WOT based on logs from before you got the chip. Then, have Jeff or someone modify the timing maps on your chip to match what you want to see for timing. If you're going to have the chip reprogrammed to give you more advance, it sure makes more sense to do it the right way by changing the timing maps, doesn't it?


What did you expect to happen when you bought this chip and no longer needed to totally screw up the airflow going into the ECU with a SAFC anyway?
 
aliengotpsi said:
Jumping Mods?>?? After the intake and cams and chip, Started base timing at 0 and then after a few pulls went to 5 degrees and pickd up 30 TQ and a lil HP

Oh ok, I understand now. Did you degree the cams? I would get some cam gears and at least do some dyno tuning or better yet, degree them and THEN see what you can make by cam adjustments (at least then you'll know if your cams came off-center).

Like you said, I really don't see any reason why the cams and intake manifold wouldn't add power, UNLESS the cams were off center.
 
rarson said:
Like you said, I really don't see any reason why the cams and intake manifold wouldn't add power, UNLESS the cams were off center.

They probably did gain power, but then he lost it and ended up back where he was because apparently he doesn't know how to tune for the new chip.
 
Its about time for a real tuning method (standalone). None of this "guessing" chip stuff. Learn to tune and 10's will be en-route.
 
depending on how in depth with the tunning u want to go i'd recommend dsmlink. The 1g version comes out the end of this month and is not expensive at all. Said to be cheaper than the 2g version. If you want more than that offers go standalone. Also dont tune your car, have somone else do it for you. Drag racing classes would prob. help you a lot too. I dont see why your not in the 10's.
 
ClipseT96 said:
depending on how in depth with the tunning u want to go i'd recommend dsmlink. The 1g version comes out the end of this month and is not expensive at all. Said to be cheaper than the 2g version. If you want more than that offers go standalone. Also dont tune your car, have somone else do it for you. Drag racing classes would prob. help you a lot too. I dont see why your not in the 10's.

Where did you hear that the 1G Link was coming out at the end of the month? Any prices?
 
I am not sure what the problem is you should still be able to adjust your timing back where you had it befor the chip. WHat is your redline and how did the curves change after the cams and manifold?
 
JohnTSI said:
I am not sure what the problem is you should still be able to adjust your timing back where you had it befor the chip.

No. His timing was high because of using the huge injectors and a piggyback to lower the aiflow signal. He isn't doing that anymore.
 
kpt4321 said:
No. His timing was high because of using the huge injectors and a piggyback to lower the aiflow signal. He isn't doing that anymore.


I am aware of that you misunderstood my response. I purchased the chip just so I could get my timing lower since it was WAY to far advanced for high boost being the signal was hacked. I meant he could tune in the timing to get it back to the point he was at with it hacked up. Not that he would set it at the same base as befor.
 
Kevin,
Your an idiot!! The chip isn't the whole problem but it does have an effect. Do some more research on the other added parts and you will find the rest of the problem.

The fact that you didn't gain any top end power shows that the intake apparently isn't pruven on your setup. Look @ the difference bewteen your setup and mine. You run 264/264 and a Forrester and power peaks around 6400. I run 272/272 and a Magnus and my power is still climbing @ 8k says something about the 264/Forrester combo. 6500 and up is where the added power woulda been if you would have gained it,not @ 6400 and under. Key factor is the setup couldn't pull the top end and thats the lack in power.

My $.02 but what do i know, mine only made 115+ more @ the wheels on a very similar setup :p .

$100 says w/ my intake and cams you make 450+.

Nick
 
PSI2HI said:
$100 says w/ my intake and cams you make 450+.

Nick

Don't take that bet. My money says his cams and intake will be pure shit and totally unusable, just like the Speed Design 4 spider gear center diff he sold me last year. Yeah, I haven't forgotten yet Nick. BTW, you going to the Shootout? I'd love to return this thing to you.
 
I work w/ him dumbass.

Diff pulled out of my working trans and swapped for a spool. Kinda hard to take your word about it when you bitched 7 months after you bought it. Woulda been different if it woulda been a week. Diff isn't to hard to pull apart to inspect. And it's been a good 2 years now...

Yeah i'll be @ the SO. Want a pic so you can recognize me? :laugh:

Nick
 
I'd LOVE a pic. I let the diff sit in a box because I was waiting to have a trans sent it to Shep to have it built. He said it was total junk. I'm not one to buy something, break it, then cry foul. However, if you want to sell junk, I'll be more than happy to let everyone know that you do.
 
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