Dumb Newbie BOV second VAC nipple Question

[T is for TURBO]

Okay, after the destruction of my 2g, I replaced it. It is a greddy type S... Please not hatters. I don't wanna hear about the 1G BOV please, I know its the best bang for you buck and all, but, its my money.
To the question. The little nipple on the bottom of the BOV. where exaclty does it go? I've read the bit on VFAQ (http://herpetology.com/dsm/bov.html) and it says to "The smaller nipple on the cast aluminum body of the BOV may be spliced into the turbo outlet pipe or into the line between the turbo and wastgate actuator." Now I did this by adding a T in to that line... But when I put it where the yellow box is (pic), my boost was insanley high (30PSI with stock setup) but it was doing what it was supposed to and blowing off faster (not to mension it was loud ass hell). Second time I placed the T in the Red box. In the red box, the boost was normal, but it doesn't sound like its releaseing as fast. I have not had a chance to try the third line (blue box). My question is. Where exaclty is it supposed to go/or if it doesn't matter, why am I seeing such a boost increase between the stock T and the BCS.

Thanks for the long post, and sorry for such a newbie question...
-Shawn

 

[Prodigyman]

Okay, after the destruction of my 2g, I replaced it. It is a greddy type S... Please not hatters. I don't wanna hear about the 1G BOV please, I know its the best bang for you buck and all, but, its my money.
To the question. The little nipple on the bottom of the BOV. where exaclty does it go? I've read the bit on VFAQ (http://herpetology.com/dsm/bov.html) and it says to "The smaller nipple on the cast aluminum body of the BOV may be spliced into the turbo outlet pipe or into the line between the turbo and wastgate actuator." Now I did this by adding a T in to that line... But when I put it where the yellow box is (pic), my boost was insanley high (30PSI with stock setup) but it was doing what it was supposed to and blowing off faster (not to mension it was loud ass hell). Second time I placed the T in the Red box. In the red box, the boost was normal, but it doesn't sound like its releaseing as fast. I have not had a chance to try the third line (blue box). My question is. Where exaclty is it supposed to go/or if it doesn't matter, why am I seeing such a boost increase between the stock T and the BCS.

Thanks for the long post, and sorry for such a newbie question...
-Shawn

I was wondering the same thing! But I just ignored it... I plugged in the tube from the intake manifold and installed BOV now its louder and much better response (and I don’t vent). But I am also wondering what does that nipple do?

 

[VBGSX]

Some people run that nipple to a vacuum source and some do not.
I recommend NOT using it.
Just put a vacuum cap on it.

If you blow in that nipple, you'll notice that it goes straight out where the air releases(vents) on the BOV and back to your intake(if you're recirculated). If you're vented, then the nipple goes straight through and into the atmosphere.
This is a straight boost leak and vacuum leak if you use it.

If you do use it, DO NOT run it to the the red or yellow boxes in your drawing. No wonder your boost tried to shoot up to 30psi. By using it connected the way you did, the wastegate never triggered because it never saw the boost it should have. It was vented out through the nipple, lowering the pressure the wastegate needed to trigger.....

Sorry I'm trying to explain this in the simplest way. Let me know if that doesn't make sence.

Good luck

 

[trbotaln]

"Some people run that nipple to a vacuum source and some do not.
I recommend NOT using it.
Just put a vacuum cap on it."

If you don't keep the extra nipple coneected to a pressure source, then leave the nipple open and don't cap it off.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

why wouldnt you cap it off?

 

[DSMvroom]

i left my bottom nipple uncapped, and disconnected. why?

(this is going to sound really retarded)
Because most everyone else did.

While I was researching on how to install BOVs when I first bought mine, I read many a threads on it and the consensus seemed to stand to just leave it disconnected and uncapped. I don't recall why.

 

[VBGSX]

Yes, please explain why you shouldn't cap it?

If you don't, no matter how you look at it, it's a direct leak!
1. Between shifts, some of the metered air will escape through the nipple.
2. It will also let some unmetered air enter at idle and during driving conditions.
And if you want to know how I know this. I've monitored it with DSMlink while adjusting my fuel trims.

An air leak is an air leak no matter how you look at it.

There are no detrimental effects from capping it off.
I have the exact same BOV and mine is capped off. It works fine.
I've run it capped and uncapped.

Good luck

 

[trbotaln]

I asked Greddy and they said to leave it un-capped.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

here's my input, since I connected mine to a pressure source. actually the LICP if you will.

case #1 - i left the bottom nipple vented because everyone said so.. right? sure. then I noticed that my type S fluttered at ANY setting and would flutter and cause the car to buck at partial throttle.

case #2 - I experimented and connected the bottom nipple to my LICP nipple, thus make a boost source. now, although it is not as audible [who cares?] and it doesn't make a loud whistle noise, the BOV does not flutter anymore and I can go partial throttle all I want.

the trade off of doing it is well worth the sacrifice of the loudness of the BOV. so there's my .02

 

[trbotaln]

the valve does respond better to low/no boost driving when it is connected to a pressure source (LICP), but I noticed that my turbo spooled up a little bit slower. I have experimented with it done every way, and as far as performance goes(WOT), I noticed that leaving it un-capped was the best.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Im having the same issue as you did, blcknspo0ln. I also have the fluttering noise at any boost level. Thats why I'm tring to figure this out. Im going to put it to the turbo outlet (Blue box) and see how that works.

Thanks guys
-Shawn

 

[trbotaln]

Im having the same issue as you did, blcknspo0ln. I also have the fluttering noise at any boost level. Thats why I'm tring to figure this out. Im going to put it to the turbo outlet (Blue box) and see how that works.

Thanks guys
-Shawn

You are probably getting the fluttering because you have the spring too tight. My Greddy Type S never fluttered when I had it, no matter how I had it hooked up.

 

[trbotaln]

read about the Type S, even RRE says to leave it open. Try leaving the extra nipple open and it might solve your surge issue.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/rreicpipeinstructions.htm

 

[T is for TURBO]

I originally left is open, but got the flutter. thats why I hooked up the third nipple, It flutters much less now, I think I just have to do a little fine tuning now with the spring seeting

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Yes, please explain why you shouldn't cap it?

If you don't, no matter how you look at it, it's a direct leak!
1. Between shifts, some of the metered air will escape through the nipple.
2. It will also let some unmetered air enter at idle and during driving conditions.
And if you want to know how I know this. I've monitored it with DSMlink while adjusting my fuel trims.

An air leak is an air leak no matter how you look at it.

There are no detrimental effects from capping it off.
I have the exact same BOV and mine is capped off. It works fine.
I've run it capped and uncapped.

Good luck

I know this is old.

Just so no one reads this and gets missinformed, this guys BOV is broken...the bottom chamber should be sealed and IF you hook up the bottom nipple only use a all boost source. WHY? There are pleanty more threads with all that info in them, just check em out.