Driveshaft carrier bearing?

[wishihadatalon]

The VFAQ follows the FSM pretty well, the only exception is the torque specs and how to measure the c-clip clearance. There are a ton of pictures in the FSM and I'm just too lazy to post them, it would probably take an hour with all of the copying pasting, resizing, etc. If you look hard enough you can find a free download for the FSM. I've seen them around, I honestly don't remember where, but they're out there.

I've never heard that about the U-joints, but I don't doubt it. I've experienced the same thing with offroad trucks.

Some tips:

Don't mix up the carrier bearing spacers. They are different heights. You can just take them out of the old carrier bearing, one at a time, and thread the spacer/nut assembly back onto the stud it came from. You can't mix them up that way.

Don't bend the driveshaft too much, I'm pretty sure that's how I tore the boot on the Lobro joint. JNZ tuning has the necessary parts to rebuild the Lobro if it's needed. I'm going to do mine in a couple weeks just for peace of mind.

Get new upper and lower insulators, mine were cracked. It's also the perfect time to change the T-case output shaft seal, and check the rear diff backlash

Somebody mentioned getting a good set of snap-ring pliers, I broke two pairs of the Taiwan crap. I do have a set of Craftsman pliers and I think I have a few snap-on sets, but I couldnt find them.

Make sure you use grease where specified in the VFAQ.

Make sure you put mating marks everywhere, especially on the yoke flanges that you are going to remove and the Lobro flange.

And take a look at the T-case output dust shield before you install the driveshaft, I bent mine and I still don't know how.

If you have any questions just ask. I'm probably not the best person to be asking since I screwed it up, but I know what NOT to do,

Alright thanks. Every piece of drivetrain is coming out of my car this winter to get serviced or rebuilt so I will be checking it all and fixing it then.

 

[DSM90AWD]

The Lobro boot does have a small crack in it. I'm 100% positive that it wasn't there before because there is a small amount of grease coming out of the crack, and I had cleaned all of the oil and grease from the shaft before I painted it and re-installed it. So it looks like I need a new boot at the least. What sort of play should I be looking for in the Lobro, it seems to move in and out a little to easily. I'll compare it with some others this week and see if I notice a difference.

As you can see the in the FSM (or in the link below), the Lobro is much like a CV joint in it's design and 360* movement, but it also allows for some longitudinal movement (e.g. this is normal).

Like a CV joint, if the bearing still has grease in there and does not bind or make noise on rotation, it is probably fine. Mine was left dangling off the rear of my car on a lift by an idiot local tranny shop which (as you say above) is a big as it will pinch the rubber boot. Not knowing this, I drove my car ~500miles therefter before my lobro (by then bone dry) went making a horrible low pitched growl/whine.

FYI.. a great primer on this on Jeff Lucious's Site although for a 3KGT

 

[WatchItExplode]

Do these autozone U-joints include new end caps and snap rings? I bent the crap out of my snap rings taking them off, and I broke some of the needle bearings putting the caps back on. Forgot to make sure they were in place before pressing them back on

 

[Mitsu_Racing]

Has anyone found out if the u-joints fit a 2G as well?

 

[toybreaker]

could you post up the pics from the fsm. I would like to do this and do it right.

Also I remember seeing a post a while ago where people were snapping aftermarket (autozone/advanced) u-joints everytime they launched. They switched back to oem and no issues at all.

I think this may be because the after market units all seem to be crossdrilled, and fitted with a zerk-style grease fitting on one of the caps. Drilling all the way throught the spider allows the unit to be greased, and for the grease to get to all the caps, thru all the drilled passageways in the spider.. But, drilling all the way thru the spider weakens it considerably, making it vulnerable to breakage during high load launches

The o.e units only have a small grease reservoir in the cross bar, and are not crossdrilled.

I've used both styles, and actually prefer the factory units. They're proven stronger, and with the extra thickness clips provided in the o.e. kit, I can get the endplay perfect every time.

(Of course, , being the o.c. freak that I am, I drill all the factory caps, and install zerks in all the caps, and grease each cap individually... , but, I'm a freak like that... )

It's kind of stupid to have to pull the u-joints out of the yoke kits, but that's just the way it is. Done correctly, with a c-clamp u-joint tool it's just a minor extra step.