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dremel/air tool for porting stuff?

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93AWDDSM

10+ Year Contributor
883
40
Jan 1, 2009
Vancouver, Washington
looking to add some tools to my collection for porting needs and etc.

will this be enough psi/rpm for porting manifolds/ hotsides and o2 housing?

Craftsman Die Grinder - Tools - Air Compressors & Air Tools - Grinders :hmm:

that is rated at 90PSI @ 6.5 SCFM
air compressor(random haven't bought yet) SCFM Delivery At 90 psi: 2.4

Would I need a air compressor that flows @ the same amount or high SCFM to run that well enough to port without having to recharge?
 
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Any of you guys have a good suggestion for bits to use for aluminum? I'm needing to port my intake manifold so that my throttlebody matches. Went and bought a carbide bit from Home Depot tonight but there's no way it should be taking as long as it is to widen the hole on this thing.

Get a single cut carbide bit made for aluminum which has wider flutes and is not crosscut like an iron cutting bit.

And do the OP, get a set of tootsie rolls and a flapper wheel to fix that stuff, looks like you tried to grind against the spin and let it dig in. Also, did you mark the match to your gasket first?
 
Get a single cut carbide bit made for aluminum which has wider flutes and is not crosscut like an iron cutting bit.

And do the OP, get a set of tootsie rolls and a flapper wheel to fix that stuff, looks like you tried to grind against the spin and let it dig in. Also, did you mark the match to your gasket first?

yes its stock. not going 7cm inlet, i was just trying to remove the lip on inside but got carried away... thanks OCD. LOL

ok Ill give it a try. thanks also its ported very rough in the inlet, can you advise if I should continue or start to smooth it. (what bit used for smoothing? and remember I'm not running crazy amount of boost Ill be running 15psi for a while)
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guess your supposed to learn from mistakes:ohdamn::toobad:
 

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Get a couple stones to work them snail trails out before you go to the rolls
 
OK, I'm going to pick some grinding stone kit up in a day or so. I'll take it easy this round. The HF electric grinder is slightly awkward to hold LOL. I will re post pictures when I have gotten half way/ done.
 
OK, I'm going to pick some grinding stone kit up in a day or so. I'll take it easy this round. The HF electric grinder is slightly awkward to hold LOL. I will re post pictures when I have gotten half way/ done.

One of the keys to any good port job is a good technique AND a good working station. I prefer to stand while holding the grinder with the cable over my right shoulder and the rear resting on my shoulder as well. This helps to keep the rotations and vibrations to a minimum within your arm.

As for the work space, if you can find a nice vice that can hold the hotside or piece you are working on that is best. This keeps the part from moving around and lets you focus entirely on the motions of the grinder. Having the piece flopping around will just create problems with you holding it down with one hand and the grinder with the other.

Also, in addition to the stones pick up some of these, they will help work things around as well and keep you from putting so much force in a single space by spreading out the surface area.

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Ok thanks, and yes I was having a slight hard time holding the hotside while porting by hand. I do not have a vise or a place to mount it, I'm really making due. I have a single bay garage I am renting from a apartment complex with no built in tables to bolt anything down.:mad::notgood:
 
If you want this to turn out well, not like your practice piece don't gamble. Take the time to figure out something to use as a table. Me personally I would build a small one, an I did for my one car garage. But even if you had to find an old table to use just come up with something so you don't have to hold it with one hand, an port with the other. An as far as not having a vice. Harbor freight has them for less then $50.00. Hell, if I had to I would bolt it to a table or drill holes In the table an use the extra large zip tires to hold it down so I didn't have to hold it with my hand. An last choice if all else fails have a buddy hold it down for you while you work on it. Good luck.
 
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thanks for the info, I will update pictures of progress once I get some stones to help smooth the grooves.

+1 to newbie porting(me) LOL

One of the keys to any good port job is a good technique AND a good working station. I prefer to stand while holding the grinder with the cable over my right shoulder and the rear resting on my shoulder as well. This helps to keep the rotations and vibrations to a minimum within your arm.

As for the work space, if you can find a nice vice that can hold the hotside or piece you are working on that is best. This keeps the part from moving around and lets you focus entirely on the motions of the grinder. Having the piece flopping around will just create problems with you holding it down with one hand and the grinder with the other.

Also, in addition to the stones pick up some of these, they will help work things around as well and keep you from putting so much force in a single space by spreading out the surface area.

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Thanks for the info:hellyeah:

If you want this to turn out well, not like your practice piece don't gamble. Take the time to figure out something to use as a table. Me personally I would build a small one, an I did for my one car garage. But even if you had to find an old table to use just come up with something so you don't have to hold it with one hand, an port with the other. An as far as not having a vice. Harbor freight has them for less then $50.00. Hell, if I had to I would bolt it to a table or drill holes In the table an use the extra large zip tires, I have to hold it down so I didn't have to hold it with my hand. An last choice if all else fails have a buddy hold it down for you while you work on it. Good luck.
:thumb:
 
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So I went back used the carbide bit to slightly get some of those snail trail out, anyways I put the flapper back into its original spot but then I noticed that I could see some light through it slightly, might just scrap this housing and grab another, second pic below let me know



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It's not crazy just a thin light right there and I'm picking up another hotside right now and I don't want to put money into this hotside because it has cracks as well, so ill take more precaution when doing the next one I'm just gonna remove the lip inside and slightly increase the WG hole other than that I'm not porting it deep.


Edit: picked up other hotside more cracks then mine currently, can someone walk me through a flapper replacement for a 34mm or post a link?
Thanks

2nd update:
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This is looking better, done for today got to get ready for work will continue tomorrow, how is it looking?
 

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You mean a step-by-step guide to the installation? I could not find one with pictures but from what I found it seems like the process would be the following:

- grind away the metal 'mushroom' retaining the flapper on the flapper arm. Be cautious not to damage the arm itself and the washer.

- remove the old flapper

- port the wastegate port (but you got that one down already)

- insert the new flapper in the flapper arm

- place the washer on the new flapper rod

- smash the tip of the flapper rod with a hammer making sure you do not damage or bend anything.

Alternatively you could weld it in place.

Again, I never did it myself but that's how, based on a basic google search, you're supposed to do it.

let us know how it goes.
 
Hard to tell for sure by picture, but it looks like some rough edges at the bottom. You want it all smooth as possible.
 
hello again, I finished my port job awhile ago and it has felt like it made a difference in my car. I have a buddy who we are getting his car ready to run again and decided to go ahead and port the inlet of the hot side housing and upon inspection we found this:
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He said he paid a shop to "port" the housing, my question I have to ask is this worth it or should he get another hot side housing?
 

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hello again, I finished my port job awhile ago and it has felt like it made a difference in my car. I have a buddy who we are getting his car ready to run again and decided to go ahead and port the inlet of the hot side housing and upon inspection we found this:
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He said he paid a shop to "port" the housing, my question I have to ask is this worth it or should he get another hot side housing?

I'd have a certain shop paying for a new hotside real quick........
 

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hello again, I finished my port job awhile ago and it has felt like it made a difference in my car. I have a buddy who we are getting his car ready to run again and decided to go ahead and port the inlet of the hot side housing and upon inspection we found this:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


He said he paid a shop to "port" the housing, my question I have to ask is this worth it or should he get another hot side housing?

wtf....get a new hot and sent it to Control Flow Porting
 

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hey sorry guys i know im a little bit late to this game but as far as a nice work bench goes home depo is selling a real nice wood folding work bench for 60 bucks right now. its a 8ft by 2 1/2ft table that folds up real nice and makes a great work bench.

just wondering if any of you guys would make your next porting project into a step by step so some of the new guys (like my self) could get an idea of whats all going on LOL.
 
I do lots of port and polish work at home and at my shop. I've gone thru alot of bits and sanding drums and am running low on supplies. Just wanted to share the 2 kits I just purchased from amazon to restock my supplies and so I can port and polish another 14b to use on my gst's new motor. Anyway for just under $100 I got 2 very nice kits, everything and more that ill need to do a few port and polish jobs. With these 2 products it will have you set with everything you need to do a good port and polish job! :) Here's the first set of burrs to get material removed. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00061SFKK/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SS115]Astro Pneumatic 2181 Double Cut Carbide Rotary Burr Set with 1/4-Inch Shank:Amazon:Home Improvement[/ame]
Then this nice deluxe porting and polishing kit. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015DQH2Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1377257536&sr=8-1&pi=SL75]Standard Abrasives 260001 Deluxe Porting Kit:Amazon:Automotive[/ame]
Hope this helps any of you guys who are wanting to start porting and polishing on your own!! Enjoy
 

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I find that Makita has the best grinders, but like some of the other guys mentioned the HF ones work fine too. You should (or should have invested in speed controller. I used this one
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Router-Power-Tool-Speed-Controller/dp/B0012WKCXK]Router or Power Tool Speed Controller - Amazon.com[/ame]
Its not just different bits that are needed based on the material you are cutting, you need to be able to adjust the speed...and if you used the same Harbour Freight one that I have it is way too fast without a speed controller
 
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