dont flame

[dsm2841]

im a modest mechanic , but i am new to the DSM scene my big thing was 5.0's i know those cars in and out

now these DSM's i am interested its time for a change

im realy interested in a 92-94 talon/eclipse awd manual (prefer talon)

i looked through the FAQ section found some info

i dont mind finding one with a blown engine as long as it fits the criteria

are those engines like rebuilding any other DOHC engine?

im guessing with the amount of boost ud have to run forged pistons, and a lower compresison ratio , what is the compresison ratio?

and whats average shifting points for these cars? if u dont drive like a maniac and your just cruising around

 

[me612]

Welcome to DSM's, they are definately fun. Rebuilding these engines might not be like rebuilding other DOHC engines that you've done. I'm guessing most of the DOHC engines you've delt with are aluminum blocks. Our setup consists of an iron block and aluminum head. So pretty much what that means is you don't have to worry about sleeving sh!t to be able to make some power. Stock a 92-94 is gunna have a 7.8:1 compression ratio. People commonly rebuild these engines using the stock 1g rods which are fairly stout for stock rods, and throw in 2g pistons which raise your compression to 8.5:1. Forged internals is definately a plus and are not really that much. Forged internals are usually between an 8.5 - 9:1 compression ratio. A stock bottom end on one of these is capable of handling quit a bit of power though. My gst was right at 400 whp with a stock bottom end. And its not uncommon to see this. You don't have to worry about boost levels on these cars as much as you do on a honda with a stock bottom end. The cylinder walls will hold. Boost it till your heart says stop, just make sure to do it safely with proper fuel and tuning. Don't run around your neighborhood at 25psi on 91 octane. For street driving I keep mine around 16 psi. Just keep reading around and try to absorb as much knowledge as you can. These things do break, but what doesn't break when you start making twice the power the thing was built around. I just replace everything i break with a better performance piece so it shouldn't break again. Anyway good luck and welcome and don't be scared to post even the dumbest of questions. Some guys on here might try and make you look like an idiot, but some of us aren't here to judge, just here to do our best to help.

 

[dsm2841]

thanks man, im Very impressed with this site and its opened my eyes alot to DSM's

you guys know these cars in and out, and this site is built very well

im amazed these blocks can hold that much horsepower..........

8:5:1 was the compression i was running on my stang with a blower

these awd cars do they handle well? or are they pretty much straight line cars?

 

[me612]

The AWD's have some understeer issues that need to be considered if you are building a road course racer. I mean there are products out there to counteract these of course, but stock they have understeer. The FWD turbo models are fairly popular with road racing. Even look at the featured car of this site. It's a full road race FWD model. If you're into that kinda racing, then get to know the Road Race Engineering guys. Matter of fact they can help you in just about every form of racing. There is all sorts of sites out there to help you along your upgrade path, or just tips and tricks on how to install stuff, pros and cons of certain brand products.

 

[dsm2841]

yeah, not particularly into autocross and all that

just want a 12 second car, hell there interiors are even growing on me

 

[dsm2841]

to first question, whats the average shifting point? do they make torque downlow?

 

[92awddsm]

They dont make a lot of torque down low and its even less with cams. You shouldnt have a problem getting one into the 12's. If I were you, I would look for an early 92(actually, I did) That way, you get the 4bolt rear and the 6bolt engine. You wont get the larger front brakes which were offered from 93-99 on the awd but it is cheaper to upgrade the brakes than to get a 6 bolt. By the way, when I say 6 bolt engine, These were available in the 89-early 92. They have larger head bolts, beefier rods, larger intake ports in the head, little better intake manifold, larger throttle body, and less likely to suffer from crankwalk. Being a 5.0 guy, I know you understand all this.

 

[dsm2841]

. They have larger head bolts, beefier rods, larger intake ports in the head, little better intake manifold, larger throttle body, and less likely to suffer from crankwalk. Being a 5.0 guy, I know you understand all this.

only thing ive understood so far , yeah if i were to get a dsm id only want 92-94 cuz im not a big fan of flip open lights and there newer.......

i saw you have awd, how do your launch? do you dump it at all? or just take off?

i know im persistant but i want to know where u guys are shifting at from gear to gear and i see you are running about what i want to do, where do you shift?

im sry im used to 5.0's and other torque monsters and i was shifting at 2200 rpm and keeping up with traffic

i dont want to be like a ricer (no offense intended) and be shifting at 5k every red light


Also i see your done with the stage 1 mods, what do you run ?

 

[92awddsm]

only thing ive understood so far , yeah if i were to get a dsm id only want 92-94 cuz im not a big fan of flip open lights and there newer.......

i saw you have awd, how do your launch? do you dump it at all? or just take off?

i know im persistant but i want to know where u guys are shifting at from gear to gear and i see you are running about what i want to do, where do you shift?

im sry im used to 5.0's and other torque monsters and i was shifting at 2200 rpm and keeping up with traffic

i dont want to be like a ricer (no offense intended) and be shifting at 5k every red light


Also i see your done with the stage 1 mods, what do you run ?

Actually, Im done with stage 1 and 2. Just I have a small turbo upgrade so I dont really consider 2 done yet. Last time I ran the car was in may, I had a bad launch(2.003 60'), broke my center diff and still ran a 12.96@107. I usually try to slip/dump on the launch but with this act 2600, sometimes it doesnt slip. Look at my profile to see the time slip and the mods done to the car. At the time, I had the stock cams and was shifting around 6600-6800. I have since installed a new set of cams and hopefully will have a 50 trim turbo and a few other things done to the car in the next couple of weeks. Im shooting for 11's this year in full street trim. I still have leather interior, full power options, ac, spare tire and whatever else. The only thing I have removed from the car was the abs because it was really tight fit for my upper ic pipe.

Next time you call me rice, Ill pull up next to your dsm with my 99 mustang gt and show you what rice is. Yes, I was a stang guy also. I had a 86gt, 91gt, 92lx 5.0, 95gt, and now a 99 gt. Good luck with the dsm, Im sure you will be happy with it.

 

[dsm2841]

so i assume your happy with it?

glad to hear hopefully i have the same result as you

it was this or a 90-92 supra, i loved the RWD 3.0 turbo but Goddamn thats a ugly car

atleast this car has SOME looks to it , its growing on me .....

 

[me612]

about shifting points. When I'm driving around town i tend to shift around 4k. When racing, well of course you're gunna shift higher, but at real high RPM's like in the 8k's, these things don't like to shift that high. But there are race trannies you can purchase to help you in that situation. And plus redline in 1g's is 7500 so really you will be alright. When a lot of people launch, they usually just rev it way up and when they get the green light, just stomp it and dump the clutch. I personally don't do it that way because that's pretty rough on your drivetrain. I do like the other guy here does, do a slight slip just so that the car is rolling and then dump it, cuz at least then your gears are already moving somewhat and you're not just at a complete dead stop.

 

[dsm2841]

4k oh boy, any way to drive like a granny and shift at like 2800-3300? and still move?

hell around here id pretty much just have to murder it off the line , if i dont get a 12 second car out of this thing .......

my plans are buying one for around 2200, putting down 1500 in Repairs, and rest of it is who knows, i got around 7000 dollars for the thing

 

[BoredOutaMyMind]

4k oh boy, any way to drive like a granny and shift at like 2800-3300? and still move?

hell around here id pretty much just have to murder it off the line , if i dont get a 12 second car out of this thing .......

my plans are buying one for around 2200, putting down 1500 in Repairs, and rest of it is who knows, i got around 7000 dollars for the thing

yes, when im just lounging around in my GS-T i just shift at 3000-3500, but you'd be surprised how fast you get up to speed shifting this early, as long as you keep a half decent pressure on the gas and im basically stock :thumbdown

7000........ mmmmmm, is that total for the purchase/repairs or the leftover money after u buy it and repair, because with 7grand, you will be movin

 

[me612]

That doesn't sound like too bad of a plan. I got mine for 2000. Paid 300 to get it shipped to me. So far spent right around 1000 on repairs. Also all the repairs i did, i did like i mentioned earlier and upgraded it while I was in there. I bought the car with bad valve stem seals, that i did not upgrade when i fixed it. I just brought it in to napa and they installed new ones for me and checked it out for me and cleaned it up so that it looked like brand new. I also had a bad 2nd gear. I got a jdm galant vr4 tranny and xfr case from a hook up, threw that in with a new sprung 6puck clutch, because my other one was slipping. Changed all my diff and xfr case fluids to redline, threw GM Synchromesh in the tranny (which i am not impressed with even the slightest). New timing belt. The guy before me had some BS intercooler pipe rig on there, so i upgraded my UIC pipe, made it myself actually. Crushed and polished my BOV. Better plugs and Accell wires, ss clutch line, and i guess i could go on and on. I haven't even really started to mod it, I'm still in the stages of fixing the problems, but when i do, i make sure to upgrade that way it's already done. If you have 7grand, then you will be just fine. You could just purchase a car already running fine that will need minimal repairs for prolly like 3k, and then just start modding away. I'm not a tranny expert, but from what I've acquired, shifting at low rpm points like you're saying you want to is rough on the tranny. plus you'll have no power at that point in your rpm range. you'll want to shift around 4Kish about for daily driving purposes

 

[dsm2841]

nope 7000 dollars is all i got including car and repairs, so 3000 rpm? well thats what im gona be shftin at everywhere i guess.....

anybody here into the tampa racing scene?

and what do you think i could get it to run with 7000 dollars?

 

[me612]

7000 bux including the price of the car. It all depends on the condition of car you buy. If you find like a 92 for 3500 bux that is in good mechanical condition with 0 mods. Then you have 3500 to spend on mods. 3500 worth of mods is going to get you a quite a few parts. You'll more then likely be in the 12's. But there's more to it then money. You need tuning, you need to buy right parts that will comlement each other. You need to know how to drive the car which you will learn after owning and driving one for awhile. But with that much money the possiblity of 12's is easily within your grasp.

 

[92awd6bolt]

I was one of the lucky few to get a 92 with a 6 bolt and if you can find one it is definatly nice not having to worry about crankwalk or having to swap a rearend.also with the shifting normal driving i shift at about 2500 so dsms at least turbo models are nowhere near rice except for those folks doing eurotails and other ### what not.12's are easy as long as your not in colorado.You can get there cheap or expensive it all depends on quality reliability and look of the parts you install.As far as handling factory handling is excellent in my opinion.UNdersteer can be fixed with a swaybar swap.And as far as low end power that all depends on turbo size and your basic exhaust mods porting always helps spool up time.if theres not enough torque and your rebuilding engine than you can take that 3k and do a stroker kit and up the bore and stoke and compression and get some low end that way.sorry if this long,reatarded or confusing but i hope it helped

Ryan, "if it's got tits or tires it means it's a pain in the ass at times"