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DIY Strut Bar for 2G

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pointblank9957

10+ Year Contributor
284
10
Jul 12, 2012
Sheboygan, Wisconsin
I'm heading to Tractor Supply tomorrow to get a 2"x.5"x48" bar of Aluminum to make a strut bar for my Spyder. Will .5" be thick enough or should i go with .375"(3/8")? Or should i go .75"?

EDIT: i finished up the bar and i think it turned out pretty well! i used aluminum tubing instead of a bar, and i used angle iron to mount it to the towers. by the way no that is not anodized, i just polished the aluminum and used Candy Red paint on it.

i noticed a big difference when hitting bumps and going over railroad tracks! it doesnt shake as much going over the, tires dont squeal as much when cornering and the body doesnt roll as much on tight turns

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This shouldn't fix body roll.. It should just fix flex in the frame, or make it more predictable (less sloppy) over bumps and such. Get coil overs and sway bars for the roll.
 
Make your own, concentrate more on your mounting to the towers than the bar itself, the bar will be both under tension and commpresion put some heim joints at the ends and you will be looking good.
 
Can you explain in more detail how you mounted it?



I have a strut bar with no tower mounts and apparently nobody sells just the mounts.

On the tower there are 3 bolts that hold the plate on the strut, i took the ones towards the front off and and bolted the angle iron down under the nut, the angle iron is pointed up at a 30° angle and bent back so its perfectly level, same on the other side, then the bar is just bolted front to back with 1/4" bolts, nuts, and fender washers.

This shouldn't fix body roll.. It should just fix flex in the frame, or make it more predictable (less sloppy) over bumps and such. Get coil overs and sway bars for the roll.

By roll i mean rebound from a turn
 
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