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KillerTOFU

10+ Year Contributor
40
0
Jan 12, 2011
Aspen, Colorado
Hey guys this is my first real post so ill give plenty of details. I recently bought my first dsm, ive owned a bunch of subarus and honda and felt it was time to try my hand at a fast carROFL

So the car has with a bunch of mods ive done already (see my profile) and i wanna give it a bit of a overhaul before i really start driving the hell out of her. Here is the parts list i ordered.

Cometic HG
ARP head studs
oem Water pump
Kevlar Timing belt
oem Tbelt tensioner
NGK plugs
NGK wires
Turbo gasket
Intake mani gasket
Exhaust mani gasket

car will recieve a full coolant/brake flush after and o run 10w30 synthetic, is there any other maitence or supporting mods i should get? Besides Suspension chassis of course thats a whole other ball game.
 
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Everything looks good that you have listed so far.

Just a note on the Cometic headgasket in case you don't already know. A metal headgasket needs perfectly flat mating surfaces to seal properly. Unless your cylinder head was recently milled and you know for a fact it's a perfectly flat surface I wouldn't recommend running a MLS headgasket. Just a friendly heads up, that's all. I would hate for you to go through all that work and have a leaking headgasket right from the start.
 
One thing to take into consideration, but I have heard that the kevlar t.b tend to snap when exposed to cold weather overtime of course. I have never personally owned one but since you are from colorado and I know that it does get cold there just something to consider. Again just a personal preference I have heard from people that have ran them. The reason being is that the kevlar is so much harder of a material and when its not warm its much stiffer. Just wanted to throw a fact with my comment so I dont get knocked down. But Def. have all the mods in the right order and doing everything right good luck!
 
Everything looks good that you have listed so far.

Just a note on the Cometic headgasket in case you don't already know. A metal headgasket needs perfectly flat mating surfaces to seal properly. Unless your cylinder head was recently milled and you know for a fact it's a perfectly flat surface I wouldn't recommend running a MLS headgasket. Just a friendly heads up, that's all. I would hate for you to go through all that work and have a leaking headgasket right from the start.

i brought the head to a machine shop and they checked it for any signs of warping they said it was good. i know i should pull the block and do the same but..... yea not goin that far with out rebuilding the motor completly, i have a machist block to check and ill do some hand polishing. Also ive always copper sprayed my mls HG on my other imports and that seems to work for me. I guess ill have to cross my fingures on that one:hmm:

One thing to take into consideration, but I have heard that the kevlar t.b tend to snap when exposed to cold weather overtime of course. I have never personally owned one but since you are from colorado and I know that it does get cold there just something to consider. Again just a personal preference I have heard from people that have ran them. The reason being is that the kevlar is so much harder of a material and when its not warm its much stiffer. Just wanted to throw a fact with my comment so I dont get knocked down. But Def. have all the mods in the right order and doing everything right good luck!

REALLY? LOL it was -25 here today so yea it def gets cold here. ill do some research and look into that thanks man
 
i brought the head to a machine shop and they checked it for any signs of warping they said it was good. i know i should pull the block and do the same but..... yea not goin that far with out rebuilding the motor completly, i have a machist block to check and ill do some hand polishing. Also ive always copper sprayed my mls HG on my other imports and that seems to work for me. I guess ill have to cross my fingures on that one:hmm:

You'll be fine then. You don't have to worry about the block like you do with the head. The head is aluminum so it can warp relatively easy but the block is cast iron so you really don't have to worry about it as much. Sounds like you're on the right track and you're doing everything properly. Keep up the good work. :thumb:
 
You'll be fine then. You don't have to worry about the block like you do with the head. The head is aluminum so it can warp relatively easy but the block is cast iron so you really don't have to worry about it as much. Sounds like you're on the right track and you're doing everything properly. Keep up the good work. :thumb:

thanks guys its nice to see some nice guys on here most of the new guys on here get flamed glad i avoided that :hellyeah:
 
Usually because they are asking repeat questions without any remote knowledge to search or search properly. Also spelling and grammar is an issue for a lot of people it seems (you should look into fixing yours as well).

As for the kevlar belt breaking under cold weather, that's news to me. I'm not quite sure how valid that claim is. However, you really don't need a kevlar belt. They still need to be replaced at the same interval but they can withstand more power. Currently until you start breaking some higher numbers it's cheaper to go with an OEM belt. Get some new timing pulleys as well.
 
Usually because they are asking repeat questions without any remote knowledge to search or search properly. Also spelling and grammar is an issue for a lot of people it seems (you should look into fixing yours as well).

As for the kevlar belt breaking under cold weather, that's news to me. I'm not quite sure how valid that claim is. However, you really don't need a kevlar belt. They still need to be replaced at the same interval but they can withstand more power. Currently until you start breaking some higher numbers it's cheaper to go with an OEM belt. Get some new timing pulleys as well.

Thank you for the advice on the timing pulleys and the kevlar belt. The belt is already on the way so i guess im S.O.L on that, and as for the grammar note taken! Thanks Liquid.
 
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