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Demodding.....

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kgtalon95

15+ Year Contributor
236
4
Jun 4, 2003
bothell, Washington
Ok guys, going back to the basics. I'm getting rid of my 20g, maft, act2600 and going back to a lower hp, like 300.

What would be a good clutch?? I want something less stressful than a 2600 on the drive train, but can handle a b16g at 20psi. I'm awd and usually don't go to the track. I'm only railing the car when tunning.......duh.

Any other comments welcome, on the idea............. :thumb:

Also, i ordered a 3000gt vr4 fuel pump, to get rid of my walboro 255. Will it be able to handle 300whp? Does it need to be rewired?

I'm also going to get rid of my pocketlogger/palm/safcII combo and hopefully go with dsmlink.....I heard the new software update will be................. :shhh:

Anybody ever demodded??????
 
I think that the 3000gt fuel pump should support you, they're engines have 320 so it should be fine. Just out of curiosity why are you "demodding"??? WTF
 
I would also like to know why you are doing this. The clutch I can understand, but not the MAFT and turbo. TURN THE BOOST DOWN. Especially if you are going DSMLink. As for clutches.... How bout the SBR3500? It is a street disk, and many on this board seem to like them. I installed one in my car, but it won't be running till this weekend.
 
I don't know anything about the dual friction clutches.......feel free to enlighten me :thumb:
As far as demodding goes.........the power i'm putting down is causing things to "break" and i'm tired of fixing it and it hurts the pocket :sosad: The reason I don't want to turn down the boost on the 20g is that the turbo has poor transient response when you run like 12lbs. It was the first thing I did, my old b16g was more fun at a lower boost setting.

As for my maft, I've come to realize that it just isn't what I had expected. Don't get me wrong its a great tunning device, but i'm going to go back to my 2g mass.

I decided to demod because I just came to realize that I don't need a 400whp car. Sure its fun, but i go to school and don't have a garage, so when things break I have to find a way to limp it 70miles south to work on it. I figured my dsm will be happier at 300 and still just as fast as most the stuff i'd mess with on the road. If you're interested in my parts let me know, i'll be putting them in classifieds at the end of next week, some stuff is already there.

I want to be able to hop in my acr and go, not prep it every morning and have to constantly adjust my settings.......... true daily driver if you will ;)
 
Amen to that, owning a dsm and going to school don't mix. I am having a hard enough time keeping mine runnin stock let alone modded. I thikn this needs to be a new theme of this board " Don't mod beyond your means."

anyway back to school.
 
I used an ACT 2100 on my 16g car for a long time and it always held up great. Easy to drive and inexpensive. Numerous 1.7x 60's on that thing.
 
I was thinking about doing the 2100 flywheel combo?? Anyone have anything good to say about going with an act flywheel?
 
I personally don't have the center force dual friction clutch (on the eclipse) but this is what I'll be getting when I need to replace the stock unit, only heard good things about them. The thing you have to make sure is that you break it in properly. Its like the act2100 about the same pedal pressure or slightly lighter but is supposed to handle more power. Its good for 2g's as it puts less pressure on the thrust bearings then the 2100. RRE was just one of the shops I talked to who recommended it :thumb:

Just as a side note my old man has a 500 hp 67 camaro (dyno tested) that has the centerforce DF clutch on it. Had it on for 2 summers & it still holds great, so...
 
i'll have to look into them a bit more..........anyone got comments on the act flywheel?
 
what r u going to end up doing with the items you are pulling from the car?

and i agree with you, fast cars are fun, but if it's your only car it's just not practical. im going to go to maybe 300-350 on mine. just so i can play with the lame v8's around here.

as for the flywheel, i hear better things about the act than i do about the fidenza.
 
kgtalon95 said:
i'll have to look into them a bit more..........anyone got comments on the act flywheel?

ROFL , when I put in the clutch I will be adding an xact streetlight as well. Same thing only heard good info on these. Alot lighter then stock at ~12lbs compared to the stock ~18 but not as light as the aluminum ones so you don't have issue's with the car stalling when you put in the clutch.
 
Things like ACT lighter flywheels, lighter wheels, removing weight like spare tire/rear seats/etc, lighter/underdrive pulleys, cams, lighter cam gears, etc... make cars with smaller turbos more fun too. :D
 
Kyle the CFDF is a badass clutch light on the leg great grip Youll love it., ACt2100 also a good choice.
Bryan
 
Here's some more info on the CFDF Clutch.

Centerforce Dual-Friction, H-D Ball Bearing Pivot Clutch $ 375

For 89-99 Eclipse Turbo, AWD and FWD
This is the newer higher clamping load CF pressure plate (we tested it at 2500 lbs). CF is now using ball bearing pivots for the diaphragm for an easy pedal effort. The dual friction disc now has a larger friction surface. We recommend it highly for 13 second drag cars though we have run high 11's with it. While it is fine for going fast, it is perfectly streetable. Centerforce uses Marcel (wavy metal layer) between the layers of the clutch disc to make the engagement smoother.

If you are serious about drag racing and chasing a magic number, if you launch hard and often, get the ACT 2600. Excessive heat from repeated launches will kill the CFDF (and most other clutches). You will hear quite varied opinions about CFDF all over the internet. Some guys run fast with them forever, others have killed them in under 6 months. It is all up to you. If you make repeated launches and runs you will seriously shorten it's life. If you are disciplined enough to let things cool down between runs you will be fine. Just like overheating your brakes will give you no grip, the same thing happens with your clutch. Get it hot enough and you will turn the disc into kitty hair. The ACT 2600 has more clamp load, it won't slip as much and won't make as much heat. The Centerforce will slip a little more, but this can be safer. You choose your weak point...clutch or hard parts.

Price includes factory plastic sleeved throw out bearing to protect your transmission input shaft sleeve.


Source: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

There's a nice chart on their website for choosing a clutch under the description of the CFDF clutch.
 
I would be happy to help tune it for you (The MAFT) next time I am in Seattle in a couple weeks if you want. I understand what you are saying about the lag of the 20G, I agree with that. As long as you have the logger, I guarantee that your car will run better with the MAFT than without it. It is all in how you tune it. :thumb:
 
Mackzero said:
I would be happy to help tune it for you (The MAFT) next time I am in Seattle in a couple weeks if you want. I understand what you are saying about the lag of the 20G, I agree with that. As long as you have the logger, I guarantee that your car will run better with the MAFT than without it. It is all in how you tune it. :thumb:

Thanks!! I've got the tunning down for the most part. I'm really contemplating going to dsmlink here in the near future. With all the updates and the praise it gets I'd like to go in that direction. I agree with the maft comment, my car runs better than it ever did with a 2g mass. But i think thats in large part to due with the injectr compensation. Basically if i got rid of my afc/maft/logger combo dsmlink would be almost paid for. The problem I've been getting into isn't adding fuel, but with this combo there is no adjustment for timing. I can see now how the tune is so important to the power you make.

I'm thinking that i'd rather have all the right tools on a smaller turbo then what I have with a large turbo. On a side note, Bryan; added some to the base pressure and knock is down around three.......the 20g is carzy in third gear :rocks:

Thanks for all the info on the clutches guys!! I'm really leaning towards the 2100, i love my 2600, but it will be overkill when i demod and I haven't been to the track yet so it won't see much abuse. I've been searching and can't find anyone that posted on their act flywheel install. Anyone?? I'm curious how it helped out.

And why hasn't anyone bought my 20g setup yet? The thing hits full boost at 3700, 17psi, for crying out loud :p
 
Sell the AFC and logger setup. Kick in an extra $200 from somewhere and get the link. It is worth every penny. :thumb:
 
well if you are demodding sell ## 20g and that should get you the 200 you need
 
I run the fidanza flywheel with a 2100 series clutch. It runs beautifully. Takes launches and down shift beat downs like a charm. The reason why I went with fidanza rather than ACT was the fact I wanted a better response, the Fidanza is only 8.5 pounds....common, thats sooo light compaired to the paper weight of the ACT. The day I finished the install, I went out to drive it and I noticed so much of a differnece in acceleration and response. If your going to be "demodding", then I would def. go with a set up similar. I run between 300 and 350 on my boost happy days. Thats all I need.
 
97EclipseGS-T said:
I run the fidanza flywheel with a 2100 series clutch. It runs beautifully. Takes launches and down shift beat downs like a charm. The reason why I went with fidanza rather than ACT was the fact I wanted a better response, the Fidanza is only 8.5 pounds....common, thats sooo light compaired to the paper weight of the ACT. The day I finished the install, I went out to drive it and I noticed so much of a differnece in acceleration and response. If your going to be "demodding", then I would def. go with a set up similar. I run between 300 and 350 on my boost happy days. Thats all I need.

What about stalling??? I've heard that they are so light that the car will stall????Is that true? I'd love to go fidanza, but I really don't want my car to stall if i'm revving high in like first and push in the clutch.

Thanks for the great reply
 
napkinthief said:
well if you are demodding sell ## 20g and that should get you the 200 you need


I know!!! But that also has to pay for an evo3 big 16g :thumb:

Seriously, no one wants a full externally gated 20g setup on a stainless o2?? Or a maft setup?? I thought you guys were tuners :p
 
Bad boy, don't sell the MAFT..... LOL

I also run the Fidanza flywheel and have NO problems what so ever with IDLE or STALLING.

We'll have to meet up if I come up there next weekend, and I'll give you a ride in my car, so you can see how it runs.
 
kgtalon95 said:
What about stalling??? I've heard that they are so light that the car will stall????Is that true? I'd love to go fidanza, but I really don't want my car to stall if i'm revving high in like first and push in the clutch.

Thanks for the great reply

I ran the fidenza light also. With Spec clutch (money was an issue at the time. Got a good deal ). Same results as 97EclipseGS-T. Very happy with it :thumb: . But someone at the body shop blew my engine and I went 6 bolt, so I took off the Fidenza. I had a little bit of a stall issue at first, but once the computer learned my flywheel, no more problem. Really.
MB
 
Mackzero said:
Bad boy, don't sell the MAFT..... LOL

I also run the Fidanza flywheel and have NO problems what so ever with IDLE or STALLING.

We'll have to meet up if I come up there next weekend, and I'll give you a ride in my car, so you can see how it runs.


Lol, sounds good :thumb:
 
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