Damaged fuel lines what size?

[4gfun]

I was tired one morning last year and ended up jacking up the car by the fuel lines not the frame rail.

The fuel lines were barely damaged, I doubt flow is effected but I don't want to take a chance. I want to get them swapped before I replace my fuel filter.

Anyways, I just want to replace the damaged few inches of fuel hard lines rather than upgrade the whole thing. I posted the same question over at GVR4 but my question never got answered. It turned in to more of a why I should replace the entire fuel lines which I don't want to do right now.

I have the flare tool and mini tubing cutter ready to go. I have done brake lines before and was wondering:

1) Is the procedure is the same as doing brake lines? (Double flare don't use compression fittings etc)

2) What sizes the fuel lines would be? (I know that it is for a GVR4 not a DSM but I was hoping the lines would be the same).

3) If no one knows what size the fuel lines are, is there a procedure/tool to measure them?

Again, this should be a relatively simple repair....I don't want to replace the whole damn fuel line(s) right now.

Thanks

 

[SIMGSX]

It seems like you just have to do what works. If you have the tools to do it, I guess you just have to make it work. But if nothing else works.. you can just run the breaded line to your fuel pump to your fuel rail.

Sorry, I just have never seen someone fix a section of a fuel line before.

 

[Paul@RTM]

1) Is the procedure is the same as doing brake lines? (Double flare don't use compression fittings etc)

Yes, the same.

2) What sizes the fuel lines would be? (I know that it is for a GVR4 not a DSM but I was hoping the lines would be the same).

You don't need to guess the size, you're cutting a portion of the line out, correct? Cut a portion out and then measure that (or take it to a shop to compare). (The size is either 5/16" or 8mm if you really want to know). As for the flare nuts that go with the line you don't even have to use the same as what's on there now since you're repairing the middle of the line and aren't going to be connecting to the existing flare nuts. (The stockers are M14x1.5 by the way).

3) If no one knows what size the fuel lines are, is there a procedure/tool to measure them?

The size is 5/16" or 8mm (basically the same). The best way to measure is with a vernier of some kind, but you could use a ruler on a cut section at the end as well.

 

[talonalex92]

The pressure line is 3/8 and the return is 1/4. A brass compression fitting will be more than adequate for either. I wouldn't bother flaring in a new small section, it would be much easier and cost effective to do the entire line to the filter if you want to go that route.

Most brass compression fittings have a working limit of 500 psi.

 

[pauleyman]

The pressure line is 3/8 and the return is 1/4. A brass compression fitting will be more than adequate for either. I wouldn't bother flaring in a new small section, it would be much easier and cost effective to do the entire line to the filter if you wasn't to go that route.

Absolutely not. Do not use a home depot brass compression fitting on a steel line. Will it hold for a while? Probably. Will it hold long term? No.There are steel compression fittings available from industrial supply houses. I've fixed lines with them and ran them for more than 10 years.

 

[talonalex92]

Your signature means you are correct and I'm wrong clearly. The steel unions are also rated incredibly higher than the pressure that line is ever going to see. A brass one will be fine. But everyone has an opinion and I'm not here to debate that.

If anything they may corrode slightly faster from dis similar metals but that's about it.

 

[4gfun]

Your signature means you are correct and I'm wrong clearly. The steel unions are also rated incredibly higher than the pressure that line is ever going to see. A brass one will be fine. But everyone has an opinion and I'm not here to debate that.

If anything they may corrode slightly faster from dis similar metals but that's about it.

Appreciated...thanks for this help!

 

[pauleyman]

It isn't just about the pressure rating. It even says on the packages not for steel line. Brass isn't strong enough to compress steel line. Brass compression fittings are made for copper line at those pressures. It's not about corrosion, it's about the ability of the fitting and ferrule to compress the line and fit properly which it won't do.

From the watts website that supplies fittings for home depot

Description:
Ideal for use with copper, brass, aluminum or plastic tubing on gasoline, grease, oil, water, vacuum and air lines. Not recommended for use with steel tubing.

From the watts website that supplies fitting to home depot

Description:
Ideal for use with copper, brass, aluminum or plastic tubing on gasoline, grease, oil, water, vacuum and air lines. Not recommended for use with steel tubing.

 

[4gfun]

So let me get this right. Don't use brass compression fittings on a steel line. It seems like I would have to do some mail order stuff to get steel compression fittings.

At this point, I see the double flaring as the most local and cost effective option etc. talonalex92 mentions the expense of fixing such a small portion with double flaring and replacing such a small section and double flaring.

I see his time taking point of view but I don't see it as being expensive.

Correct me if I am wrong, but my research shows I can just go out and get some steel brake line from my auto parts store, cut to size and just do my double flaring.

Thoughts?

Thanks

Don't mean to pick on anyone (after all if anyone should get picked on it's me for being so damn tired and making a mistake) just wanted more clarity

 

[Paul@RTM]

Correct me if I am wrong, but my research shows I can just go out and get some steel brake line from my auto parts store, cut to size and just do my double flaring.

Yes, if you can find the female counterpart of the male flare nuts you're using.

 

[4gfun]

Yes, if you can find the female counterpart of the male flare nuts you're using.

I think last time I did this for my brake lines on another vehicle, I used a union in the middle and 2 male flares. Would that be ok? Also, how do I know what flare nuts I am using. Say for the 1/4 inch return...would it be a 1/4 flare I am using.

Appreciate your help.

 

[Paul@RTM]

I guess you gotta start with cutting out whatever portion of your lines you want to cut out. Then test fit flare nuts on that line to find the best fit. Then find the female fitting to match the flare nuts. I don't think you could just use a double-ended female coupler unless the length of tubing you're cutting out is no longer than the coupler. Otherwise you're going to need a length of tubing in between. So you'd have: existing tube --> flare nut --> female coupler --> flare nut --> new tubing --> flare nut --> female coupler --> flare nut --> existing tubing. That's a bunch of connections in a short distance but what else are you going to do? It would almost certainly be easier to run -AN lines, but whatever.

 

[4gfun]

I guess you gotta start with cutting out whatever portion of your lines you want to cut out. Then test fit flare nuts on that line to find the best fit. Then find the female fitting to match the flare nuts. I don't think you could just use a double-ended female coupler unless the length of tubing you're cutting out is no longer than the coupler. Otherwise you're going to need a length of tubing in between. So you'd have: existing tube --> flare nut --> female coupler --> flare nut --> new tubing --> flare nut --> female coupler --> flare nut --> existing tubing. That's a bunch of connections in a short distance but what else are you going to do? It would almost certainly be easier to run -AN lines, but whatever.

Yep, I am coming to the same conclusion....but easier to run -AN lines? How do you figure this? Don't mean that in a bad way, just trying to learn.

Thank you

 

[pauleyman]

I used a double compression union for steel line. Look up an industrial hose shop in your area. I googled this one. I'm sure there are probably others.


Cavalier Hose & Fittingsmore info‎
2461 Bellwood Road
Richmond, VA 23237
(804) 271-6400

 

[Paul@RTM]

but easier to run -AN lines? How do you figure this?

I suppose in a sense it's not necessarily easier and almost certainly not cheaper but I guess the idea is that for your money, time and trouble at least you're getting an upgrade (and not just a performance upgrade: hard steel lines rust and stainless braided doesn't). You do -AN once and never need to touch them again for the life of the car. Your repair will work but it just gets you where you were before. To be fair, even with -AN you still have to break loose a couple of connections that are often rusty and seized (not sure what your rust situation is like), but once the -AN lines are in, it's all blue skys and rainbows.