The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

cutting stock oil return line and adding hose

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dsm5150

20+ Year Contributor
464
0
Feb 19, 2003
vacaville, California
i see that some people have done this.i was just going to cut and use some good orange heater hose.will this be ok?theres nothing other than hose clamps to hold it on.report back(pics would be wonderful)
 
I did it like that. My stock return was cracked, so I went to Napa and picked up some of that 3 layer ultra heater hose. I took my stock line, CLEANLY cut the fittings on each end off, and used to worm clamps on each end. Works like a champ.

Make sure you file down the ends you cut off though; make sure they are REALLY smooth. Any jagged edge and you are going to have a leak. Also make sure you have the right amount of hose. I had mine with a little too much the first time and it creates a collection area in the hose. Hope that helps.
 
i know.it just pisses me off that the stocker costs so damn much and the aftermarket pieces prices are hard t swallow
 
I did this when I put my tubular on because the manifold stuck out farther. So the stock return line wasn't long enought to bolt up to the pan. I did what everyone else does just cut the two ends and got heater hose, high heat silicone and hose clamps. Worked great hasn't leaked yet. Just make sure you seal it good with the silicone
 
is that silicone or jb? But if you gonna cut it I'd say only cut the flex out and replace it with 3" of hose
 
no pics but i did the same thing. high temp hose with clamps on each end. watch for leaks though....
 
I've done this for the last 3 years. Call me cheap if you want, call me stupid, I don't care. With no more than I drive the car I replace it every few months or so. I just take the piece of hose back off and take it back into Advanced Autoparts and tell them I need a piece of hose this long (only about 4") and they hand me a little snip of it for free and I go on about my day.
 
I've done this for the last 3 years. Call me cheap if you want, call me stupid, I don't care. With no more than I drive the car I replace it every few months or so. I just take the piece of hose back off and take it back into Advanced Autoparts and tell them I need a piece of hose this long (only about 4") and they hand me a little snip of it for free and I go on about my day.

Yeah it does work well, and it works well when you know you have a perfect seal on the flanges of the return line at the turbo and oil pan, and you need to remove your oil pan or turbo for whatever reason. The an way is probably ideal but the heater hose method works very very well.
 
Datsun used a silicone drain line on the 200SX Turbo. Doesn't rust, doesn't bend, doesn't crack.
I'd rather see silicone tubing than heater hose. Fuel line would probably live through it as well- check an industrial truck supply shop.
 
Oh, if you're going to go this route, make sure you are cutting and using a 1G oil return because they are made of harder metal than the soft aluminum of a 2g return line. (I tried it also and then torqued it down too much and it bent the metal).
 
WRXs also use a hard upper and lower section with a short rubber hose connecting them, works fine. We cut out the flex and used hose on a 20g with a Bullseye housing since the housing placed the turbo 1/2" lower than stock and it worked fine.
 
Datsun used a silicone drain line on the 200SX Turbo. Doesn't rust, doesn't bend, doesn't crack.
I'd rather see silicone tubing than heater hose. Fuel line would probably live through it as well- check an industrial truck supply shop.

Agreed. Silicone hose can be bought for about $5/foot from a hydraulic shop. It is extremely easy to work with as well as simple to rig up for a leak-less fit. Just make sure you use protective worm clamps (ones where the holes don't chew up the hose) and use the welded part of the stock hose as your "clamp bead". Presto.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top