cut springs?

[dsm mad man]

shuld i cut my springs in my 90 talon tsi?

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

my opinion... wouldnt recommend it.. theres lots of kids that did that around here and they bounce like crazy.. HONDAS.. :thumbdown :laugh:

 

[dsm mad man]

yha dident think so, im just going to buy a kit. got any idea what would be the best for under $200 for a AWD?

 

[billy5]

yha dident think so, im just going to buy a kit. got any idea what would be the best for under $200 for a AWD?

:thumbdown i wouldnt do it

 

[dsm mad man]

whys that

 

[vaboys2ndgen]

yha dident think so, im just going to buy a kit. got any idea what would be the best for under $200 for a AWD?

depends on how low you want it... i know im going with eibach sportline springs.. thats abou the lowest i've seen AWD in a picture anyway.. you can from tein springs pretty cheap on ebay also (thats what i had on my tiburon) loved 'em.

 

[jtmcinder]

Cutting stock springs:

Pro: cheap (free, if you already have a hacksaw or plasma cutter).

Cons: cut ends will rust and separation taper at the end is lost, so the spring might dig into the rubber isolator (since you should cut the upper end).

Non-issues (all supposed cons): hard to calculate new rate ... non-issue because it takes twenty second with a calculator to find the new rate; hard to determine in advance the amount of drop ... non-issue because it takes five minutes to solve the simultaneous equations to determine this in advance; springs not designed to be cut ... car wasn't designed to be lowered; etc.

If I were broke and had a stock suspension, I'd cut my springs. As it is, I like them full-length, since I rallycross in the winter on the stock suspension.

- Jtoby

 

[Omega]

Cutting stock springs:

Pro: cheap (free, if you already have a hacksaw or plasma cutter).

Cons: cut ends will rust and separation taper at the end is lost, so the spring might dig into the rubber isolator (since you should cut the upper end).

Non-issues (all supposed cons): hard to calculate new rate ... non-issue because it takes twenty second with a calculator to find the new rate; hard to determine in advance the amount of drop ... non-issue because it takes five minutes to solve the simultaneous equations to determine this in advance; springs not designed to be cut ... car wasn't designed to be lowered; etc.

If I were broke and had a stock suspension, I'd cut my springs. As it is, I like them full-length, since I rallycross in the winter on the stock suspension.

- Jtoby

What about the theory that when you heat the spring up you change its' spring rate in that section and also make it weaker?

 

[jtmcinder]

If you're a fan of that theory, use a hacksaw.

- Jtoby

 

[dsm mad man]

humm also wouldent it mess up the AWD and throw the camber or toe off

 

[Omega]

If you're a fan of that theory, use a hacksaw.

- Jtoby

So that is just a theory then. That is what I wanted to know.

Got another one for you... Springs with a progressive coil. What's your take on that?


Mad:

Any amount of drop will change the chamber, it doesn't matter how you do it (cut springs, drop springs or coilovers) You just need proper parts to bring it back to spec.

 

[jtmcinder]

If you read up on things like "post heating" and "annealing," then you'll get the idea that the rate might be changed, but not by enough to really matter. After all, we're talking about cut stock spring, not JIC FLT-A2s. My main point about cutting stock springs is that, assuming that you will some day spend the money to do it right, you can avoid "wasting" money on lowering springs by cutting the ones that you have.

What's my take on progressive springs? Nice for a street car; not so nice for a race car. One of the underlying issues in the debate about coaxial hats is the same: changes in the spring rate during travel. Hard to tune to shocks to hit a moving target, no?

Now a return question: why the heck would anyone want to return the camber to spec?

- Jtoby

 

[Omega]

I am familiar with annealing, but not post heating. They sound quite similar.

My question about progressive springs was in reference to cutting them. From what I understand, the less tightly wound section of the coil gives you the lower spring rate. You usually end up cutting this section. That leaves you with a shorter spring and a higher overall spring rate.

I highly doubt the people that cut their springs end up with a better setup in the end. If I was to take the time to remove the springs, cut them and reinstall with the intention of upgrading later; I wouldn't bother in the first place. But that is just me.

For a daily driver, would you not want to have the camber close to what it was originally? I know those that are involved in organized racing have their suspension setup up differently... but when you are done for the weekend don't you change it back? I know I go through tires fast enough as it is.

What do you recomend someone should set their car to and what are the OEM specs?