Crank removal questions

[solson1041]

Hi guys, parts for my first rebuild are coming tomorrow, I'll be pulling the crank to replace main bearings. I have a haynes and I've got the engine out of the car, but not the crank out. Is there anything I need to know before doing this? I can take bolts out and put them back where they came from, but is there anything special about removing the crank?

Thanks very much for any help, you all are wonderful.

 

[WES_393]

With a 7-bolt it's very straight forward. You will have to have the front case and rear main seal housing off, then undo the bolts and pop the girdle off. I would suggest having the crank inspected by a shop. Check the bolts for stretching and reuse if they look good. You could upgrade to ARPs but I would also suggest having the block line honed with the ARPs torqued down.

 

[jayson427]

make sure you label everything i usually get zip lock bags and label what is what. you want to keep everything in order from number one cylinder then down the line. you will need a crank pulley tool to get the balencer off which you can rent from autozone if you dont have one. removal is pretty simple but installation is what you need to do proper obviously.

 

[solson1041]

With a 7-bolt it's very straight forward. You will have to have the front case and rear main seal housing off, then undo the bolts and pop the girdle off. I would suggest having the crank inspected by a shop. Check the bolts for stretching and reuse if they look good. You could upgrade to ARPs but I would also suggest having the block line honed with the ARPs torqued down.

Great, thanks very much. Machine work is in order, and I'll also be inspecting the main bolts, just haven't gotten around to it. Thanks very much good sir.

 

[bryanwheat]

you will need a crank pulley tool to get the balencer off which you can rent from autozone if you dont have one.

Incorrect. The 4g63 balancer has 4 bolts holding it to the crank pulley and comes right off after removing the 4 bolts. No puller needed. The crank pulley on the crank also slides right off after the bolt holding it to the crank is removed.

Hi guys, parts for my first rebuild are coming tomorrow, I'll be pulling the crank to replace main bearings. I have a haynes and I've got the engine out of the car, but not the crank out. Is there anything I need to know before doing this? I can take bolts out and put them back where they came from, but is there anything special about removing the crank?

Thanks very much for any help, you all are wonderful.

Why are you replacing the main bearings what makes you think that they are damaged? If there is damage to the mains than there will be damage to the rod bearings also. The rod bearings get their oil thru the main bearing journals. IF you have any bearing damage at all than the engine will need a full rebuilt due to the metal contamination in the block, and parts out of spec.

 

[92AWDHX40]

If you do have a dirty engine make sure that thing gets cleaned up ive seen what can happen when a engine gets contaminated, it was time for a full rebuild because crap was all through it, i spun a rod bearing recently, found out dirt was all in it, fixed now, just make sure you replace whats needed while your there it will save you a headache down the road. If your crank is damaged you can get a crank kit, or have yours cut and get the proper sized bearings.

 

[solson1041]

Why are you replacing the main bearings what makes you think that they are damaged? If there is damage to the mains than there will be damage to the rod bearings also. The rod bearings get their oil thru the main bearing journals. IF you have any bearing damage at all than the engine will need a full rebuilt due to the metal contamination in the block, and parts out of spec.

There's some very small grooves in my bearings, as a sign of wear. I suppose they aren't fully "damaged" yet, but it looked like it'd be a good idea to put some new ones in before anything bad happened in another 50k miles. Rod bearings are also getting replaced. I got down into the engine in the first place to chase after my smoking problem (thought it was rings, really was turbo, I feel dumb). Anyways, I'm replacing bearings/rings while I'm here because reusing 150k old parts feels dirty.

Crank is in spec, cylinders are in spec, pistons and rods in spec. It's been cleaned and we're good to go. Someone let me know if I'm going about this in a dumb manner, but I believe I've got my bases covered.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Well it sounds like you covered it new bearings, not sure what you mean by dumb manner your replacing things you should.

 

[solson1041]

Well it sounds like you covered it new bearings, not sure what you mean by dumb manner your replacing things you should.

I meant it as in, if there's more I should be doing, or something like that. Thanks for the help though everyone.

 

[JacksonAuto]

I would recommend having the crank cleaned, checked for straight and micro-polishied. Scratches on the old bearings will lead to scratches on the crank journal. If not polished, these will damage your new bearings. That work should cost around $60.