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Resolved Crank Angle Sensor - 1g in 2g motor swap (Magnus)

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rst95eclipse

15+ Year Contributor
98
1
Feb 23, 2006
Minneapolis/Rochester, Minnesota
So I have my motor on a stand and I'm prepping to have everything on the timing belt side done this weekend. I disessembled everything off my 2g motor and placed the seperate things in labeled bags on a table. I have a few questions regarding the swap. Please correct me if I'm wrong...

-The 2g motor has a crank angle/position sensor, while the 1g does not use a crank sensor. I'm not familiar with how Magnus states to build a wiring harness. It looks like they want me to connect all three wires from the CAS to the 2g Crank Angle Sensor socket, which wouldn't/can't be mounted on the engine. But how would this work if I can't utilize it on the 1g motor? I think I needs pictures and a good explaination (I'm a visual learner).

-Magnus also states that the tensioner must be compressed manually. What is a good way to do this? My best guess would be to use a vice and put a pin in the tensioner to keep it compressed. Any good suggestions/solutions?

Thank you in advance.
 
I am not sure that you actually read that correctly. I am doing something similar to yours, and I have had some questions.
What it say is that the second gen (2g), uses a cam and a crank sensor. Magnus came up with a way to control both cam and crank signals at the same time. This is why you use the first gen (1g) cam angle sensor, and use the second gen (2g) crank and cam sensor CONNECTOR. Not the entire sensor.

Make sure that you read the entire post. If you are using method number #2, then you must change the injector firing order, by change the pins at the ECU. You should also, change the COIL signal wires (BLUE w/BlACK stripe, and solid blue). Leave the middle wire(RED) alone.

I hope this helps you out some. If so, please show some love (Rep points). I am trying to establish myself amongst the greats on this site.
 
About your tb tensioner,
A vice will work to compress the tensioner. A few words of advice though: First make sure the hydraulic tensioner is perfectly straight in the vice or you can damage the seals. Second, compress the tensioner slowly as not to damage it (1/2 or 1/4 turns of the handle at a time). Finally, a small hex key works well for the pin. They are hard enough that the tensioner wont bend them while you are putting the belt on, making it difficult to remove.

Also, you can buy the mitsubishi tensioner tool which is used to compress the tensioner after you bolt it on.

I hope this helps,
Justin
 
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