correct installation of oil feed line?

[97gstnick]

i know the topic sounds very "noobish", but i actually only need a little help with my feed line. i have the rs49t and i used a 90 degree brass fitting to screw into the brass fitting that is installed in the turbo. i have tightened it very good yet it still leaks! does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[BaddAssGst]

Did you use crush washers with it? I had the same problem but it just wasn't tight enough. I would go back every once in a while and tighten it up and it quit leaking. It wasn't alot but it was enough to notice.

 

[97gstnick]

where you think i should use the crush washers? and yea, mine leaks alot. . it leaves a little puddle of oil on the ground if i let it run. and oozes all over the chra so it burns and stinks.

 

[project_tsi]

Is your turbo feed set up like this one? If so, there is no place to put crush washers.

 

[ian7321]

The copper crush washers go on eiterh side of the bolt, Which means one on touching the inner part of the bolt head, and the other on the side of the oil line facing the turbo.

 

[eclipse_20g]

The copper crush washers go on eiterh side of the bolt, Which means one on touching the inner part of the bolt head, and the other on the side of the oil line facing the turbo.

There is no place for a bolt w/ crushwasher use on the type of setup he is asking the quesiton about.

1st, are you saying that you bought a 2nd 90 degree brass fitting to add onto the 90 degree that came with the turbo? If so, why?

Second, take your fitting apart, clean it, use some thread sealant, and reinstall. But dont do this until you explain why you are using 2 brass fittings when only 1 is needed for example the picture just above.

 

[project_tsi]

. If your fitting is set up like mine, w/ only 1 90* fitting, then do not put only thread sealer or tape on the AN side fitting. These are made to be used alone w/ no sealers. That is why it is flared like it is.

The other fittings need to have a bit of sealer or even thread locker too to help stop the fittings moving. My fitting that screws into the turbo has some threadlocker red on it.

Also, check into to see from all your tightening if you overtightened them and stripped out the thread, which would explain your leak.

All I can say is that I have NEVER had a single leak from my feed system

 

[99gst_racer]

The copper crush washers go on eiterh side of the bolt, Which means one on touching the inner part of the bolt head, and the other on the side of the oil line facing the turbo.

Copper crush washers are to be used with a banjo style feed line, not with the kind the thread starter has.

97gstnick - Try replacing that fitting with a steel or even aluminum fitting (preferably steel). I have made all of my own feed line kits for the past 2 years (as well as a few of my friend's kits) and I have never had a leak. Then again, I don't ever use brass fittings. Inspect the threads on the CHRA for defects and then replace that 90* fitting with a steel one. If the threads on the oil inlet are good, you should not have a leak anymore.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

just tighten it up with mabe 50 ft/lbs. I didnt use a torque wrench, but I assume thats how much I was pushing. DO NOT wrench at it like its a rusty nut. To this day, I have not had one leak and I didnt use threadsealer or anything. Using tape or anything scares me that it will get sucked in with the oil and possibly clog up something. I would rather leak oil than have an oil passage blocked and blow my turbo or even engine.

 

[99gst_racer]

just tighten it up with mabe 50 ft/lbs.

Christ! 50 ft/lbs with a brass fitting will completely strip it out. Do you torque your valve cover bolts to 50 ft/lbs too?

Just screw the fitting in by hand, then give it a few turns with a wrench. It doesn't have to be torqued in there like a head stud.

 

[project_tsi]

50 ft. lbs. is shere nuts for that fitting. Have you removed that feed line yet and re-installed it again? If not, my bet will be it will have trouble sealing, or even threading in fully next time, thus you finding yourself replacing parts you don't want to replace.

As Paul mentioned above, screw in the fitting by hand, then do just 2 or 3 small turns of a wrench and that is plenty. Since the fittings are flared at the end, for any AN style thread, they are made to seal by themselves w/ no thread sealer simply from the way they are designed. And its a great design at that. The more you wrench on it, the more chance you risk of stripping threads, then you find your self replacing SS lines and new fittings, which can be costly.

 

[99gst_racer]

Since the fittings are flared at the end, for any AN style thread, they are made to seal by themselves w/ no thread sealer simply from the way they are designed.

Small correction. The above it true with any AN fitting. But the thread on the CHRA is NPT. It's a tapered pipe thread; totally different from AN thread. NPT does not have the 37* self-sealing edges. It is OK to use thread sealer on NPT fittings, but I would still strongly recommend against it on the turbo itself.

 

[project_tsi]

Small correction. The above it true with any AN fitting. But the thread on the CHRA is NPT. It's a tapered pipe thread; totally different from AN thread. NPT does not have the 37* self-sealing edges. It is OK to use thread sealer on NPT fittings, but I would still strongly recommend against it on the turbo itself.

Yup, thats basically what I had said in an earlier post above, but yup thats correct.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

ust tighten it up with mabe 50 ft/lbs. I didnt use a torque wrench

yeah I definitely overestimated...I dont use torque wrenches much, I based it on bench-liftiung ... I was just saying to thread it in then just wrench it in with a little bit more than finger tight...aka 50 pounds on like a bench...I dunno what I was thinking.

PS...yes I have takn it out and its compltely fine. I go by feel and never have a problem with any of my bolts and I have taken off covers and all tha shit and havent broken one thing, nor had leaks once, so I can say im not just being ignorant. Oh wait, one time I was with my friend and he goes torque wrench crazy. Anyway im over at his house doing a headgasket with him and we decide to do my oil real quickly while we were waiting for a part whch my friend went out to get. So he insists on using the torque wrench on the oil drain plug. Guess what? it leaks. #### torque wrenches, I always go by feel on stuff like this. If I was building an engine then yes I would, but stuff like this you can go by feel.. And thats my own opinion.

 

[sweet97]

Nick you must have a mismatched fitting somewhere there. I have used the RST turbo before and I believe you need a 90* that has 1/8npt on the end that threads into the turbo fitting with the other end having a flared end for the SS line. The flares come in 37* and 45*. You may have the wrong flare. Is it leaking at the oint of the 2 brass fittings or the end of the SS line? Determine that first. Call AGP and ask Ben exactly what 90* fitting you need. AGP should really supply that extra required fitting. mark

 

[project_tsi]

Nick you must have a mismatched fitting somewhere there. I have used the RST turbo before and I believe you need a 90* that has 1/8npt on the end that threads into the turbo fitting with the other end having a flared end for the SS line. The flares come in 37* and 45*. You may have the wrong flare. Is it leaking at the oint of the 2 brass fittings or the end of the SS line? Determine that first. Call AGP and ask Ben exactly what 90* fitting you need. AGP should really supply that extra required fitting. mark

For a standard -4 AN feed line, he needs the 37* flare.

 

[sweet97]

Most plumbing/hardware stores carry the 45* and that would not create much of a tight fit. By the way to the writer of this thread please don't drive the car if it's leaking that much oil until it's corrected! Heck I may have a fitting here you could have, I'll look. Keep us updated. mark

 

[97gstnick]

Is your turbo feed set up like this one? If so, there is no place to put crush washers.

yes, my turbo is set up just like that. and i do not have 2 90 degree fittings. only one... it leaks where the 90 degree fitting and the straight fitting on the turbo attach to eachother. i have had it pretty tight before and really tight now and it still leaks. im scared to, i need to fix this soon. i believe this is why my turbo blew a couple weeks ago. i blew a seal and oil was getting into the exhaust housing and it was smoking like i never seen.

i do not want this to happen again,. so im gonna take off the fittings and inspect them very good again and see if everything matches up. oh, the the 90 degree ftting doesnt have and flares on it, but i dont thing it needs one on the side for attaching into the turbo fitting, right?
p.s. thanks sweet97, ill look into the sizes again and make 100% sure that i got the right ones.

 

[97gstnick]

Is your turbo feed set up like this one? If so, there is no place to put crush washers.

hey project_tsi, where did you get that 90 degree fitting?

 

[sweet97]

The 90* fitting should most likely be a 1/8npt where it threads into the fitting AGP had in the CHRA when it came to you. The other end is a -4an(1/4") flared. Just call Ben at AGPturbo tomorrow for the correct size you need. I don't know why they send them without the 90* fitting already on. mark
1/8npt is a tapered thread so the more it's tightened the better the seal, to a point, you don't want it over tightened. Do not use teflon tape on it either.

 

[project_tsi]

hey project_tsi, where did you get that 90 degree fitting?

I got mine from SBR, although its just a goodridge fitting. Like sweet97 said, call up AGP and have them send you one.

 

[97gstnick]

hey guys, i just wanted to update this thread and let everyone know that i fixed my problem. i found out it was my return line. it was too long, it would hang a little low. instead of going straight down into the oil pan it would flow down and then up alittle and into the pan. i want to make it very clear to everyone who might have this problem and cant fgure it out. if your feed line is leaking, check your return line.