Cone shaped transmission bolt stripped.

[PieEyedPiper]

My car does not have the Y bolt. Instead, it appears to have three U bolts. I don't know if this was a mix up years ago with a mechanic or if it was done at the factory - but the bolt is a Mitsubishi bolt and is identical to the other two U bolts.

Upon removal of the supposed Y bolt the threads near the end were all effed up so I figured I'd grind the thing into a cone and then re-install. Unfortunately, the threads in the block must have been destroyed upon removal so the bolt pretty much just spins freely in it's hole - or I destroyed the bolt by grinding it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I guess I'm looking for suggestions.
I already picked up a matching bolt from the hardware store (no time for OEM) but when that bolt was 90% in it started to get hard to turn so I took it out and I could see whatever is inside that hole had started to mar up the first two threads on the new bolt. Maybe it's gnarley threading on the inside, or maybe it was the cone shape that might exist at the end of the hole - I don't know.

I'm tempted to just run a tap through it a few times and see if I get lucky...or should I just straight to heli-coil?

Why is that bolt supposed to be a cone shape anyways? What's behind it?
I have to drill it out 13/32's (obviously, the only size I don't own ), am I at risk of damaging the block by drilling it out?

Thanks in advance,
I want to drive the damn car again, !


EDIT: DANG! I just thought of something else. If I drill it out, with the transmission on, I'll be installing a heli-coil for the stock bolt... which means that now the transmission ear would be too large of a dia.
Hmm.

 

[bryanwheat]

Just get a slightly longer bolt. Your bolt probably is too short now that you aren't grabbing much in the hole. The only reason that the bolt is like that is so that it will be easier to start when installing the transmission to the engine. That is the first bolt that you are supposed to install.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

That is the first bolt that you are supposed to install.

Whoops! Hopefully it wont mind being in reverse order.
I'll get a tap, chase the threads and try a longer bolt. Thanks.

 

[ed1380]

All of mine are flat bolts. The taper doesn't do anything when it comes to hold the transmission to the block. It just helps in lining up the hole and getting it started. I would have just left it as is.

grinding a bolt can deform the threads. Did you check /deburr the bolts before putting it back in?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

All of mine are flat bolts. The taper doesn't do anything when it comes to hold the transmission to the block. It just helps in lining up the hole and getting it started. I would have just left it as is.

grinding a bolt can deform the threads. Did you check /deburr the bolts before putting it back in?

I did, but it's possible it was me who made a precarious situation a bad one. I'm kind of glad to know what the cone shape was all about though, I was getting very creative for a while! Maybe flat bolts were used in later years.
You're still running with one of your bolts jb welded?

I'll update with however it turns out. Thanks for the replies.

 

[ed1380]

Are you talking to me about the jb weld? None of my bolts are jb welded.

I'd helicoil/timesert it. you might need to drill the ear on the tranny a hair bigger. No worries. Worst case scenario just put a washer on the bolt.

 

[ricktb]

Yeah I notice one of my tranny bolts is tapered as well, but for no apparant reason other than to help get it started when the tranny isnt completely aligned, but I managed to put my tranny back to gether using a different non tapered bolt, its a bi*** but it can be done. I dont think it matters as long as you have decent thread, and approximately the correct length, give or take 5mm.. Id replace the bolt with a high grade bolt, and be careful not to over torque, in case the engine side threads are aluminum (hard metal bolt vs soft metal threads = easy to strip out) Visually inspect the threads, and if they are mostly ok with a couple stripped you might be able to salvage the situation without a helicoil, just get a longer bolt.

I also invented a way to get a bolt hole to line up with the threads hole, can be used in various situations, such as the under side frame pieces.. Take your bolt, and a dremel.. dremel a 1/8 inch deep grove in the end of the bolt, dead center.., now dremel down one side flush, so you have a semi circle sticking out 1/8 past the other. round off the side that stick out a bit. Now you can stick the bolt in, turn it so the part that sticks out locks into the thread hole, and turn the bolt another 180 degrees and it automatically lines up the two holes and the bolt threads in normally from there.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Are you talking to me about the jb weld? None of my bolts are jb welded.

I'd helicoil/timesert it. you might need to drill the ear on the tranny a hair bigger. No worries. Worst case scenario just put a washer on the bolt.

I'm sorry, I swear I was reading post by you where you had the M8 bolt strip out on you so you slathered industrial jb weld on it and it's been fine since. I will dig up the post. Sorry for confusing you with someone else.

So after going to the track a few weeks ago and having a horrid run. My car has been shifting intermittently. Also had this vibration noise since then. I just figured the clutch was shot and my exhaust was rubbing again.

Well the rear trans bolt was stripped to hell. Well the trans was stripped not the bolt. Zero threads left.

Well I dd the car and it was 1am on Tuesday morning. I just busted out the jb weld and coated the bolt and clamped it tight in the trans. Well definitely not going to last forever.

Can I just drill all the way through the bell housing and put a nut and bolt through it? Or can I tap it out larger?

Any help would be great.

I would use a OEM grade 10 from the suspension. I have Nord-Lock's locking washers that will keep it from backing out.

I just want to make sure there is no major issues with doing this.

So after going to the track a few weeks ago and having a horrid run. My car has been shifting intermittently. Also had this vibration noise since then. I just figured the clutch was shot and my exhaust was rubbing again.

Well the rear trans bolt was stripped to hell. Well the trans was stripped not the bolt. Zero threads left.

Well I dd the car and it was 1am on Tuesday morning. I just busted out the jb weld and coated the bolt and clamped it tight in the trans. Well definitely not going to last forever.

Can I just drill all the way through the bell housing and put a nut and bolt through it? Or can I tap it out larger?

Any help would be great.

I would use a OEM grade 10 from the suspension. I have Nord-Lock's locking washers that will keep it from backing out.

I just want to make sure there is no major issues with doing this.

I had the 12mm in the back strip out also, I just through some industrial jb on it about 6 months ago. Still holds tight.

Cleaned the hole and the bolt with brake cleaner, then mixed up a batch of jb and gobbed it into the bolt and shoved it into the hole. Zip tied it for about 12 hours and ran with it.

I'm not sure why I got the both of you confused. Sorry!

Anywho, I had to experiment a little bit but I found a solution. There's something in the back of that hole that's all screwed up, that's for sure.
I picked up a tap and chased the threads like a bazillion times and each time I was pulling out gobs of oily metal shavings. They were already in there, not from the tap. After cleaning out the hole really well and shaving down the bolt a little more (the bolt was acting like it was bottomed out at 40mm length and the stock one is like 43.5mm or something) popped it in with some locktite and left it "wrist tight", tighter than hand tight but I didn't torque it out of fear.

I got lucky. I wasn't looking forward to having to drill it out for a heli-coil.

As for getting bolts started, I must have lucked out there too, unless I'm not understanding correctly. I was able to line up the transmission on the dowels first try, two palm strikes later and the mating surfaces were as flush as they could ever be. Each bolt slid home without fuss. Well, all but one.

 

[ed1380]

As for getting bolts started, I must have lucked out there too, unless I'm not understanding correctly. I was able to line up the transmission on the dowels first try, two palm strikes later and the mating surfaces were as flush as they could ever be. Each bolt slid home without fuss. Well, all but one.

That's what you're supposed to do I don't get maybe it helped them with assembly at the factory?

 

[92AWDHX40]

I never saw a y mine were all flat, mine are flat too.