compression question?!

[1gchallenge]

I bought a long block from a fellow dsm guy in denver, he said he had it running in a car and it was garantee to run in mine. I put it up on my engine stand and like anyone else would do i decided to tear it down and check the whole thing first before i dropped it in my car.

I know this isnt a true compression test but i did one anyway just by hand cranking. I know the numbers would be way low i just wanted to see if they were all about the same. The number ended up being 1,3,4 at 85 and 2 at 60...thats aproxamate. I took the head off and everything looks good as far as head gasket and cylinder walls. i was just wondering about that cylinder that is lower than the others. At operating temperature with good cranks would it be closer to the other ones or with in specs? Or is there a way to check them now? I want to put the engine back together with new HG and timing belt but not if that is going to mean a dead cylinder.

Any advice would be awesome!

BTW i have been looking everywhere for information on this and cant find anyone with this situation. Mainly ### the engine isnt already in the car. But like i said i dont want to take one step forward and two backward.

 

[phunny]

Did you get it in writing? With a warm engine with fluids etc. I can change the compression a lot.

 

[donniekak]

You can't do a compression test by hand cranking the engine. However, a leakdown test can be performed with the engine on a stand.

If you really insist on a compression test out of the car, a trans bellhousing, and starter can be bolted to the engine, and hooked up to a battery to crank it over.

 

[1gchallenge]

You can't do a compression test by hand cranking the engine. However, a leakdown test can be performed with the engine on a stand.

If you really insist on a compression test out of the car, a trans bellhousing, and starter can be bolted to the engine, and hooked up to a battery to crank it over.

I know you cant do it by hand, i stated that pretty obviously in my post. All i was going for was consistency. I thought about a leak down test but i dont have a air compressor and i moved away from everyone in know so i'm kinda trying to find a different way to do this.

With this post i was mainly trying to see if other people out there had some rare information not comonly talked about. Like doing a hand test and and if that difference is significant or not. I wasnt looking for people to tell me what i stated i already knew.

And no i didnt get it in righting but it had everything attached, manifolds, turbo, ps, flywheel, ect... and i only paid $300 so i figured i couldnt go wrong.

 

[Tyeler18]

Should've hooked up your tranny and starter before pulling it apart. That's how I always check for compression on a motor just purchased.

 

[1gchallenge]

This is true, but i didnt want to put the engine in the car then take it back out. haha but maybe that would of been the way to go. i have an extra trany and bell housing and wiring harness laying around and an ecu, i think i should just make an engine test stand! never have this problem again. I guess i'll just get the head checked out and cleaned, put it together and back in the car and hope for the best. if it runs decent ill start building my other block slowly.