Compete OBD1 Code List and Other Questions

[ClevelandDSM]

Good Morning everyone. I purchased another head ache of a dsm. I just can't seem to stop trying to rebuild these cars. Its like a disease .

1992 Talon TSI AWD - 70k - No Mods - Auto

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So time for the break down list.

Car has a check engine light on, and is the first OBD1 car I have purchased. I am headed to radio shack on my lunch break today to get a 12v buzzer so I can see what the code(s) is(are). The problem is, every thread I find that has a link to a full list of OBD1 codes is dead.

Other then that being a jump off point. The car also has a real nasty lifter tick. Like heard from inside the car on warm up tick. Have checked around with a stethoscope to make sure it's not a knock. Could this be fixed with revised lifters? The car also has a large amount of black soot(?) in the tail pipe of the exhaust. It seems more like carbon then oil to me but wanted other peoples opinions or ways to go about checking into it. Mayby Seafoam it and see if it comes back right away?

Thanks guys, I will check back in later on when I go on lunch.
Deano

 

[SrKegler]

Here's a list of all the codes.

ECU Code Checking

 

[Broken TSI]

Cleveland steamer

 

[ClevelandDSM]

* Update *

The Check Engine Light is now Flickering under throttle and at idol. But at cruseing(?) speeds its now off.

So on my lunch break I checked the codes in the talon. What i got back was a code for the IAT and a code for the TPS. After writing them down and disconecting the battery for 15 or 20 minutes I then drove the car back to work and tested it again. This time I only got the code for the TPS.

Could the TPS or the IAT be the cause of the rough cold start ups, Lack of power (is building boost) and\or the black fuel rich soot(?) in the exhuast? Could a boost leak contribute to this also? I have yet to test for leaks.

What is the general fix for these items? Just replacing the part(s) as a whole with new items?

* Update *

Well I left work and the Check Engine Light is no longer on. I did not reset it or disconnect the battery. About 1\2 way home it started to sputter likes its running on 3 cylinders, showing the factory boost gauge (pos I know) at 14 psi and pinned. After limping home I got on my street and gave it some gas. At about 3500-4000 rpm it starts to wake up again, clear the miss fire, and pull away. Then once i let off the gas and got under 4000 or so rpm again, it is right back to sputtering and tugging along. Could this be the waste gate stuck open? Bad Boost leak..? Im not sure where to go now, since I was just planning on pulling the throttle body and cleaning it and the sensor ( or getting a new one ) . Since it seemed to be the only real issue. That is until now.

Close Thread

- Throttle Body was full of carbon build up from prior owner neglect. Cleaned out and is now running with no check engine light for that issue. ( hopefully forever )