Cold weather and now more troubles

[boostngsx]

Since the weather has gotten cold I have gotten a few new problems. First off my oil pressure is way lower than it used to be. Stock gauge sits in the middle of L and the first line while driving. It fluctuates here and there and is real low when I first start it up. Used to be right in the middle of the gauge all the time. Oil was changed 1000 miles ago with the filter.

I am also having strange issue with temps. I fired up my car this morning and it warmed up to about the first line on the temo gauge. Then I had to leave, heat never got warm and the gauge never read any higher. Froze this morning, I have a 45 minute drive to work. When I do turn on the heat the temp gauge goes down and I get strange noises from under the dash. It kind of sounds like something is blowing around in there, i dont really know. It is a very hard to describe sound. Thanks for any help.

 

[bluetlr2001]

I would check your antifreeze level, also have you changed the thermostat anytime soon. And also make sure your heater core is hooked up. Someone may have unhooked it if it was leaking at anytime.

 

[boostngsx]

Sorry forgot to mention I just changed the thermostat last week. Heat was fine until today. But usually I have time to let the car warm up completely before I leave.

 

[DSMDemond]

They will bypass the heatercore hoses by plumbing the 2 lines together.stuck .As far as the oil pressure the colder the weather the higher your pressure should be unless you have changed to a thinner oil,which is common for cold weather climates

 

[boostngsx]

I am using 10w40 synthetic oil. Someone told me to put in Lucas Oil Stabalizer. Will that help me?

 

[No_Skillz]

I am using 10w40 synthetic oil. Someone told me to put in Lucas Oil Stabalizer. Will that help me?

No. Additives are bad. Proven to cause frothing and air bubbles.

 

[boostngsx]

So what should I do to find the problem?

 

[knochgoon24]

If your car won't warm up, your new thermostat is probably stuck open.

 

[boostngsx]

I got one of the fail safe ones from auto zone. Is there a better brand to get?

 

[boostngsx]

Is it possible that the sending unit for the oil pressure is bad? I really haven't noticed much of a difference in the car. Where else is there to start looking for the problem?

 

[DSM1G90]

auto zone

"Cough-gag!" no offence to your choice, but "CrapZone" just aint the place to get parts from - so substandard - like going to "Wally World" to find a good quality stereo - you ain't gonna find it there.

Head to NAPA, Carquest, PepBoys or even the Mitz dealership for a more respectable auto parts place to get parts from.

Yea, is your coolant at the 50/50 level? Sounds like t-stat is stuck closed (and you're sure that you got the t-stat installed correctly - with the springey thing facing downward towards the block?) causing your heater core not to receive heat.

ALSO, big thing I've found with t-stats is that they need the "wiggle valve" - the device that is mounted through the flange of the t-stat that allows the motor to 'burp' air out of the system. If there is no "wiggle valve", then drill a .050 hole in that flange to burp the motor of air. If the air cannot escape, you'll have air lock real bad and this will keep the fluid from running to the heater core.

10w40 is almost like molasses in cold seasons and you motor will suffer trying to push that molasses around inside until it gets warmed up - prob why your oil pressure gauge is fluctuating around like it is.

Use 5w/30 all year around. Our motors love it when oil can flow easily through the block..and through the turbo.

Chek these areas out..trying to help you out ... Good luck - DSM

 

[mitsu-luver]

I got one of the fail safe ones from auto zone. Is there a better brand to get?

those are made to stay open if it ever does fail premature failure?

 

[cano86]

"Cough-gag!" no offence to your choice, but "CrapZone" just aint the place to get parts from - so substandard - like going to "Wally World" to find a good quality stereo - you ain't gonna find it there.

Head to NAPA, Carquest, PepBoys or even the Mitz dealership for a more respectable auto parts place to get parts from.

I'm sorry but PepBoys in Ct sucks everytime I go to PepBoys to get a part they either dont have it or I have to modify something to fit it. Autozone or Crapzone as you said had serve me way better. The one I mainly by my parts over here is from CPI(CarPartsInternational) if I dont mistake they have a store in waterbury or new haven as well. They got some good parts and if they dont have them they'll get it for you the same day>Check to see if there is one in your area.

 

[boostngsx]

"Cough-gag!" no offence to your choice, but "CrapZone" just aint the place to get parts from - so substandard - like going to "Wally World" to find a good quality stereo - you ain't gonna find it there.

Head to NAPA, Carquest, PepBoys or even the Mitz dealership for a more respectable auto parts place to get parts from.

Yea, is your coolant at the 50/50 level? Sounds like t-stat is stuck closed (and you're sure that you got the t-stat installed correctly - with the springey thing facing downward towards the block?) causing your heater core not to receive heat.

ALSO, big thing I've found with t-stats is that they need the "wiggle valve" - the device that is mounted through the flange of the t-stat that allows the motor to 'burp' air out of the system. If there is no "wiggle valve", then drill a .050 hole in that flange to burp the motor of air. If the air cannot escape, you'll have air lock real bad and this will keep the fluid from running to the heater core.

10w40 is almost like molasses in cold seasons and you motor will suffer trying to push that molasses around inside until it gets warmed up - prob why your oil pressure gauge is fluctuating around like it is.

Use 5w/30 all year around. Our motors love it when oil can flow easily through the block..and through the turbo.

Chek these areas out..trying to help you out ... Good luck - DSM

I was reading on another thread that the thicker oil will create more oil pressure. This contradicts your statement. I'm not saying you are wrong or anything. What you say actually makes more sense. The engine has a hard time pushing around the thick oil in cold weather. I will try and get a OEM t-stat depending on the price and I'm still kind of unsure about the oil. I will read up more about that.

 

[DSM1G90]

the thicker oil will create more oil pressure

True, it will create more pressure, but the secret is flow - getting the oil to the critical surfaces much faster. Also with us Turbo owners, we need that serious flow to get the heat away from the turbo, through the coolers and back into the oil pan to cool down before traveling though the system again.

Pressure adds wear to the pump system.

And why the usage of split weight oils and not single weight oils is more common in today's motors.

If you were in the heat of the Sahara desert, or Death Valley, then a 30w single grade oil would benefit.

Split weights act opposite of single weights is that the low number is actually the thickness when oil is hot since the high number is how thick the oil is when cold. Thus a 30w oil will flow easier than a 40w when cold and a 5w will definitely flow quicker hot than 10w when hot. And this is why I run 5w/30 AMSOIL all year around.

Some folks runs 0w/20, 5w/20 or 0w/30 in their motors - to get that flow more faster in critical areas. But, these "ought" weight oils is pushing the envelope for high performance, turbo driven motors.

Why racing oils (20w50 and up) for big V8 motors are tons thicker on both ends of the spectrum since they need that massive protection due to being under high stress and temp conditions.

But, do a search on this topic to satisfy your curiousity. You're not losing anything.

Good luck - DSM

 

[boostngsx]

Made an observation this morning on my way to work. Oil pressure is higher when at higher RPM's, and oil pressure is definitely higher during day when it is warmer outside than it is in the cold morning.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

You have to put the 5W30 in your engine if you plan to run in the cold. Don't go any thicker than 10W30 in the summer. At least that's what Mitsubishi writes in the owners manual. I expect Mitsubishi would know.

I believe the approximate wording was "Use 5w30, or for prolonged high speed operation use 10W30". In my opinon 10W40 should never be used on anything but old worn out V8s in the desert. As you noticed from your oil pressure, that stuff is WAY too thick for your engine to pump in cold weather. Change it immediately! Research it yourself if you feel the need, but don't run it with that gunk in there in the meantime.

 

[boostngsx]

Alright, I have done some reading and from the other opinions I have gotten I am going top use a thinner oil. Should I use 10W30 or 5W30 right now? The weather is only going to get colder so I am thinking 5W30. Any opinons?

 

[snowborder714]

Here's the recommended temperatures for each oil from the FSM.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

For the one winter I ran my car, I used 10W-30 and didn't have any problems. I don't know how much colder it gets in CT vs. PA, but it does get pretty darn cold here.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Oops my mistake, I was going by the non turbo owners manual. So the temp cutoff for 5W30 is in a different spot.

 

[boostngsx]

I put in 5W30 today and all is well. Oil pressure is back to normal. I'm still going to watch it carefully just in case. Thanks for all the advice guys. Now to get my heat back.